History of Hungarian winemaking

Grapes were brought to Hungary by the Celts in the 3rd-4th centuries. Further, viticulture and winemaking developed thanks to the Romans. The Roman Emperor Probus planted vineyards on the Danube slopes around 276 AD. e.

The history of Hungarian winemaking goes back more than a thousand years. Endemic grape varieties have long grown here, from which wines unique to these lands are made. According to the chronicles of the 15th century, mainly white wines were produced in Hungary, but despite this, the Buda region was famous for its red wines.

The first mention of the high quality of Tokaj wines is found in one of the documents dating back to 1494.

Research conducted during the reign of Franz Joseph II in the 18th century showed that the area of ​​Hungarian vineyards at that time was 572,230 hectares. By the beginning of the 19th century, the volumes of viticulture, winemaking and wine trade increased significantly, but by the end of the century they fell due to the phylloxera epidemic, which destroyed 75% of the plantings. To restore the plantings, a number of actions were taken in 1875, which allowed the vineyards to be restored by about half.

Two world wars and their consequences had an impact on Hungarian winemaking. Since 1949, viticulture in Hungary has experienced a period of decline. Wine during this period was produced in huge wine processing plants, as a result of which it could not boast of high quality in any way, with the exception of Tokaj.

A long period of neglect of national traditions almost led to the complete disappearance of these unique vines, and now Hungarian winemakers are paying special attention to the cultivation of local varieties. Such laudable patriotism is based on a real economic task - the Hungarians are trying to preserve their own style, so as not to turn from a country with rich traditions into a sad imitation of the wine powers of Europe. At the same time, they do not fence themselves off from world experience - the further development of Hungarian winemaking is built on a harmonious combination of indigenous and classic varieties.

Therefore, along with local vines - red Kikfrankos and Kadarka, white - Furmint, Kirileanika, Harshlevelu, Surkebarat, many classic varieties are grown in Hungary, including Italian Riesling, Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The state supports winemakers, partially compensating the costs of planting young vineyards.

Fifty years ago, Hungary took the socialist path of development; the creation of a bright future was accompanied by inevitable economic reforms; the triumphant planning with an emphasis on large-scale forms of agriculture did not imply any individuality - the products of Hungarian winemakers lost their previously inherent originality.

Most of the wines produced in Hungary were exported to the countries of the socialist bloc - the Soviet Union, East Germany and Poland; the volume of foreign supplies amounted to over 3 million hl per year.

The subsequent collapse of the USSR completely destroyed the established trade patterns, which led to a huge overproduction of wine and a sharp drop in income in the industry. Since 1990, Hungarian winemaking has found itself in a deep crisis, the recovery from which took almost ten years.

Having lost the Eastern European consumer, the Hungarians tried to develop the Western market. However, it turned out to be difficult for them to solve the export problem - in order to restore the reputation of Hungarian wines, which had been shaken during the years of socialism, it was necessary to radically rebuild the entire wine industry. Many state-owned enterprises were put up for sale - their deplorable situation required the immediate intervention of private investors. State support for foreign investment has made it possible to attract a significant amount of funds and advanced technologies from French, Spanish, and Italian winemakers into the development of the industry. First, with their help, and then with the participation of their entrepreneurs, the country's wine industry began to get back on its feet - by the end of the 1990s, Hungarian wines began to re-conquer markets. Now they are supplied to almost all EU and Baltic countries, the USA, and Japan. A decisive restructuring of the wine industry required a change in the previous rules and regulations of winemaking.

Main grape varieties grown in Hungary

Hungarian grape varieties start with the powerful Furmint with high levels of acidity and Harslevelu with a more subtle aroma. They serve as the basis for Tokaj wines, and not only for them. Next comes the now rare Keknyelu grape variety, which combines richness of taste and energy, and Szurkebarat, as Pinot Gris is called here. These varieties thrive in areas near Lake Balaton (see map), although the largest plantation of the popular Pinot Gris in Europe - Nagyrede - is located 80 km northeast of Budapest.

Completely different, lighter varieties are the aromatic live Leanyka (in Romania it is called Feteasca Alba), the even cleaner and fresher Kiralyleanyka (Feteasca Regala); fresh, even harsh Ezerjo from Mog; Olasz Rizling (Welschriesling), which tastes much better in Hungary than anywhere else; rich, palate-coating and generally sweet Mezesfeher ("White Honey"); rare aromatic, sour Juhfark from Somlo and popular new hybrids - Irsai Oliver, Cserszegi Fuszeres, Zenit and Zefir. And, of course, Tramini, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Muskotaly (or Muscat). Red varieties are still in the minority in Hungary, although measures to correct this imbalance are already on the way. The mild, spicy Kadarka, called Gamza in Bulgaria, was once planted everywhere, more as a workhorse than a star. Kekfrankos, otherwise known as Nagyburgundi, is an Austrian Blaufrankisch that, as elsewhere, produces a relatively light, refreshing wine. In the north, this and earlier grape varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot probably do best. Kekoporto (Portugieser) is also grown here. The most worthy Hungarian wines, which do not lose their properties for years, turn out to be blends of imported Merlot and Cabernet from the distant sunny south.

Red grape varieties

Kadarka(kadarka)

Kekfrankos(kekfrankosch - Austrian version of blaufränkisch)

Blauburgunder(pinot noir)

Zweigelt(zweigelt)

Cabernet Sauvignon(cabernet sauvignon)

Merlot(merlot)

Cabernet Franc(cabernet franc)

Portugieser(Portuguese)

Feteasca Neagra(feteaska nyagra)

White grape varieties

Furmint(furmint)

Harslevelü(to Harshevel)

Keknyelü(quequenel)

Leányka(leanka)

Lunel Muscat(muscat-lunel)

Sargamuskotaly(muscat blanc)

Welshrizling(Riesling Italico - Italian Riesling)

Zeta(Zeta is a hybrid of Furmint and Bouvier varieties)

Since 1994, approved for use in the Tokaj region:

Szürkebarát(surkebarat - a variety of Pinot Gris)

Cserszegi fűszeres(chersegi füseresh)

Kirajyleányka(Kiraileanka)

The ancient Celts, who lived here two and a half thousand years ago, began growing grapes on the territory of modern Hungary.

Hungarian wine regions

Of all the wine-producing countries east of Vienna, Hungary has been famous for centuries for its exceptional cuisine and wine culture, special attention to local grape varieties and the most advanced wine laws and customs. That is why no country had more to lose than Hungary by trying to adapt to the tastes of those foreign buyers who saw it as just another cheap source of familiar and popular wines.

However, since the 1960s, Hungarian wines have gradually lost their identity: they are produced more based on price than on quality standards. In the 1970s and 1980s. large areas of Hungary's vineyards were planted with international varieties, a trend that accelerated in the 1990s as previously state-owned land was privatized and foreign investors were willing to invest in easily exportable goods. The introduction of modern technology and low-temperature simplified winemaking have led to the dominance of fresher, but often less rich wines. Nevertheless, by the end of the century, national pride took its toll, and winemakers began experimenting with Hungarian oak barrels. There is a glimmer of hope that the outstanding diversity of local varieties will be seen as a rich heritage rather than as ballast.

Traditional Hungarian wine is white, or rather amber-golden, and spicy. A good wine has an exceptional richness of taste, full of fire, even with a certain hint of aggression. This is a wine for fatty dishes, richly flavored with spices. Like the Germans, Hungarians value their sweet wines most of all.

Tokaji is their greatest love and national pride.

But along with traditional ones, the country also produces international varieties of wines.

Half of Hungary's vineyards are located on the Great Plain, where areas are easy to cultivate, in Alfold, the center of the country between the Danube and Tisza, and the Kunsag and Csongrad regions, whose sandy soils are suitable only for growing grapes. Red Kadarka and white Olasz Rizling and Ezerjo from the Great Plain are the everyday wines of Hungarian city dwellers.

The other half of Hungary's vineyards are scattered along the hills that cross the country from southwest to northeast, culminating in the Tokajhegyalja - Tokaj Hills. In the south, the regions of Szekszard, Villany Mecsekalja (including Pesc), Tolna and Hajos-Baja produce both white and red wines, with a preference for the latter. The climate here, the warmest in Hungary, is perfect for Kadarka and Kekfrankos, and the rising star Cabernet produces full-bodied, sometimes even powerful and aggressive wines. The high tannin content and acidity make aging necessary, but wine is often kept in oak barrels in pursuit of fashion.

Main wine regions of Hungary

Hungarian vineyards cover an area of ​​127 thousand hectares, and wine production in the country amounted to 3 million 339 thousand hectoliters in 1999. Serious scientific developments in the field of wine production are carried out by the Research Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking, as well as some universities. Hungary has a national museum of viticulture and winemaking.

Hungary is divided into 3 large wine regions, which are subdivided into 22 smaller regions.

Villany is a fertile region where producers such as Jozsef Bock, Attila, Tamas Gere and Tiffans have many serious followers in the production of Cabernet Sauvignon, Kekoporto and Merlot.

On the slopes of Szekszard, deep reddish loess also produces tannic reds Kadarka, Merlot and Cabernet. Names to look out for are Vesztergombi, Tamas Duzsi, Heimann and Peter Vida. Not far away, in Tolna, Antinori from Tuscany, famous for his foresight, settled. Szekszard also produces the Bikaver blend, which is actually an Eger blend.

Egri Bikaver was once the most famous Hungarian brand in the west - an uneven quality red wine sold under the name "Bull's Blood".

The north-eastern region is home to two famous wine regions - Eger and Tokaj. Eger, in the western part of the Matra Hills, located in the northeast of the country, is one of the most significant wine centers in Hungary. This is a city built in the Baroque style, with huge wine cellars and magnificent caves carved into the soft dark tuff of the hills. Hundreds of rows of age-darkened oak barrels 3 m in diameter with bright red iron hoops are stored in 13 km long tunnels. Their age, which did not have the best effect on quality, as well as the replacement of Kekfrankos with Kadarka, made this historical wine much thinner. Help came from foreign winemakers - a common occurrence in the modern Hungarian wine business. Two more manufacturers Vilmos Thummerer and Tibor Gal, who completed an internship in Tuscany (Antinori again), are reaching a serious level. Today they are the face of modern Eger, where Bikaver is just part of an extensive portfolio of red and white wines. The leader of white wines is the aromatic Leanyka.

In the west of Eger, the southern slopes of the Matra mountain range are given over to the second largest vineyard in Hungary - Matraalja, combining the old sites of Gyongyos-Visonta and Debro.

The great sweet wine from Debro with a history going back centuries was Harslevelu. Traditional Olasz Rizling and Kadarka are increasingly being replaced by international favourites. Fragrant Gyongyos Chardonnay and Sauvignon are the main wines exported.

Almost on the border with Austria lies Sopron, an outpost of red wines. Kekfrankos is produced here - a lively, but hardly worthy wine to be called great.

To the east is Aszar-Neszmely, famous in the past for its dry white wines from traditional varieties. The region now produces a number of popular wines from international varieties in modern wineries created for export needs. Etyek-Buda, located west of Budapest, is another rich source of international leading white wines, including sparkling wines made in the Budafok wine cellars, south of the capital.

The small, secluded hilly areas of Somlo north of Lake Balaton, where Furmint and Olasz Rizling are grown on volcanic soils, and Mog in the north, where Ezerjo grows on limestone, also have their own special character. Wine from Mog is tart, fresh, fragrant; In Somlo wines, richer and more mineral tones predominate, especially in the now rare Juhfark - light as water, dry and dense while the wine is young. Solmlo and Mog are among Hungary's historical wine regions.

The largest lake in Europe is Balaton. In a country where there is no sea, it replaces it. The shores of Balaton are covered with many villas and resorts. The air here is filled with the aromas of delicious cuisine, the weather is beautiful, and life is happy. The northern coast of Balaton is well protected from cold winds, and the proximity to a large body of water makes the climate mild. The craters of extinct volcanoes rise above the flat terrain. Their steep slopes, covered with a mixture of basalt and sand, provide excellent drainage, warm up well and retain heat.

The main white grape variety is Olasz Rizling. Dry, but fresh and clean, not very strong wines are good after a year of aging. But powerful wines with honey tones have been mastered from Furmint, Szurkebarat and Keknyelu. Even after a year straight from the barrel, Szurkebarat may still be milky white, prickly and aggressive due to the ongoing fermentation process. After 2-3 years, these wines, of which Keknyelu is considered the best and densest, become unusually aromatic, representing the quintessence of the Hungarian character and perfectly harmonizing with the spicy dishes of the national cuisine.

The Lake Balaton region was divided into four wine-growing regions.

The Lake Balaton region has been divided into four wine-growing regions: the classic Balatonffadacsony and Balatonffired-Csopak, together with Balatonfelvidek, are located on the northern shore. The south bank (formerly Balatonboglar) is now called Del-Balaton and is best known in export markets for Chapel Hill. The best local winemaker is Otto Legli. Distant vineyards in the west are united in Balatonmelleke.

The best wine is produced in Balatonffired-Csopak and Badacsony. Usually the wine label indicates the name - Balatoni - and the grape variety. Badacsonyi is stronger, sweeter and, from the Hungarian point of view, better wine. The name to look for on the label in this case is Szt Orban. This wine company, its owner Huba Szeremley, is doing everything possible to revive the region.

The unique aroma of Balaton is not limited to local wines. Any variety that grows here takes something from the rich and spicy atmosphere of the area, the volcanic soils near the water and the warm summers. The country's best Sauvignon and Chardonnay are grown here, and the Irsai Oliver variety, known for its piercing aroma, takes on full body. Red wine is produced in small quantities, although the Tihany Peninsula produces excellent Kekfrankos.

Description of the wine regions of Hungary

Location.
Hungary is located in Central Europe, bordered by Austria, Slovakia, Ukraine, Romania, Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia.

Climate.
Hungary's position, surrounded by mountains, results in a continental climate with mild winters and hot summers.

Relief.
The territory of Hungary has a predominantly flat terrain. Most of it is located on the Middle Danube Plain. The western part of the plain (Dunantul) is dissected by numerous hills up to 300 m high, while the eastern part (Alföld) has a flat, low-lying terrain. The north-west of the country is occupied by the Kishalföld lowland, limited in the west by the foothills of the Alps, 500-800 m high. To the north of Lake Balaton stretch the Middle Hungarian Mountains with plateau-like massifs 400-700 m high (Bakony...). In the southern part of Dunantul, the blocky Mechek Mountains rise up to 681 m high (Mount Zengyo). In the north of Hungary there are spurs of the Western Carpathians up to 1000 m high. They are dissected by wide river valleys and represent isolated volcanic massifs and limestone plateaus (Mátra, Bükk, Zempleni-Hegyszeg...). The highest point in Hungary, Mount Kekes (1015 m), is also located here.

The soil.
The soil cover of the plains is represented by chernozem, on the Alföld there are salt marshes, in the mountains there are brown soils and rendzins.

Viticulture and winemaking.
In the 1970s and 1980s. large areas of Hungary's vineyards were planted with international varieties, a trend that accelerated in the 1990s as previously state-owned land was privatized and foreign investors were willing to invest in easily exportable goods. The introduction of modern technology and low-temperature simplified winemaking have led to the dominance of fresher, but often less rich wines. Nevertheless, by the end of the century, national pride took its toll, and winemakers began experimenting with Hungarian oak barrels. There is a glimmer of hope that the outstanding diversity of local varieties will be seen as a rich heritage rather than as ballast. Traditional Hungarian wine is white, or rather amber-golden, and spicy. A good wine has an exceptional richness of taste, full of fire, even with a certain hint of aggression.

Grape varieties.
Hungarian grape varieties start with the powerful Furmint with high levels of acidity and Harslevelu with a more subtle aroma. They serve as the basis for Tokaj wines, and not only for them. Next comes the now rare variety Keknyelu, which combines richness of taste and energy, and Szurkebarat, as Pinot Gris is called here. These varieties thrive in areas near Lake Balaton, although the largest plantation of the popular Pinot Gris in Europe - Nagyrede - is located 80 km northeast of Budapest.
Completely different, lighter varieties are the aromatic live Leanyka (in Romania it is called Feteasca Alba), the even cleaner and fresher Kiralyleanyka (Feteasca Regala); fresh, even harsh Ezerjo from Mog; Olasz Rizling (Welschriesling), which tastes much better in Hungary than anywhere else; rich, palate-coating and generally sweet Mezesfeher ("White Honey"); rare aromatic, sour Juhfark from Somlo and popular new hybrids - Irsai Oliver, Cserszegi Fuszeres, Zenit and Zefir. And, of course, Tramini, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Muskotaly (or Muscat).
Red varieties are still in the minority in Hungary, although measures to correct this imbalance are already on the way. The mild, spicy Kadarka, called Gamza in Bulgaria, was once planted everywhere, more as a workhorse than a star. Kekfrankos, otherwise known as Nagyburgundi, is an Austrian Blaufrankisch that, as elsewhere, produces a relatively light, refreshing wine. In the north, this and earlier grape varieties such as Cabernet Franc and Merlot probably do best. Kekoporto (Portugieser) is also grown here. The most worthy Hungarian wines, which do not lose their properties for years, turn out to be blends of imported Merlot and Cabernet from the distant sunny south.

The Hungarian wine industry began to get back on its feet - by the end of the 1990s, Hungarian wines began to re-conquer markets. Now they are supplied to almost all EU and Baltic countries, the USA, and Japan.

Classification of Hungarian wines

A decisive restructuring of the wine industry required a change in the previous rules and regulations of winemaking. A new classification of wines was adopted, the number and boundaries of existing wine-growing regions were changed, and a register of vineyards and wine cellars was compiled. Currently, Hungarian wine legislation is constantly changing, moving closer to European standards, as Hungary hopes to become a full member of the European Union by 2004. The intention to harmonize internal laws with the norms of the Union does not always go smoothly and causes serious complaints from Hungarian wine producers.

Traditional Hungarian wine is white, or rather amber-golden, and spicy. A good wine has an exceptional richness of taste, full of fire, even with a certain hint of aggression. This is a wine for fatty dishes, richly flavored with spices. Like the Germans, Hungarians value their sweet wines most of all. Tokaji is their greatest love and national pride. But along with traditional ones, the country also produces international varieties of wines.

According to the classification, Hungarian dry wines are divided into four classes:

• Külőnleges minőségű bor- premium wines, controlled by origin;
• Minosegű bor- high-quality (vintage) wines;
• Taibor- local wines;
• Asztali bor- table wines.

The history of the development of winemaking in Hungary goes back more than two thousand years. The first to grow grapes on its territory were the Celts, followed by the Romans and Magyars. They all brought their own characteristics to the art of vine cultivation. Having overcome the decline due to the invasion of phylloxera (a grape disease) in the 19th century and the world wars in the 20th century, production resumed and is now flourishing again.

Hungarian winemaking traditions

There are more than 20 wine-growing regions in Hungary, and each is known for its own raw material processing technologies. The most popular were white drinks, primarily Tokaj, and the legendary red wine “Eger Bull Blood”. They are so good that a museum called the House of Hungarian Wines was opened in Budapest, dedicated to local alcoholic products. And he is far from the only one: different regions have their own establishments that offer to learn the peculiarities of production and taste the best drinks. In addition, the country annually hosts festivals dedicated to wine: there are almost two dozen of them.

Among the cultivated grape varieties in Hungary, the most common are white Furmint, Harslevelu, Ezeryo, Muscat, Leanka and red Kadarka, Merlot, Kekfrankos, Pinot Noir, Zweigelt. In addition, each region specializes in the cultivation of a certain variety of vines. Winemaking in Hungary is one of the oldest, traditional activities, the subtleties of which are passed on from generation to generation.

What makes local wines unique?

1. Location of vineyards and comfortable climate. The best varieties are grown on mountain slopes at altitudes up to 400 m above sea level. The soils here are fertile, saturated with loess and sand, the fruits are protected from cold winds. Good ripening is promoted by hot summers and mild, dry autumns.
2. Late harvest. In Hungary, preference is given to long-ripening varieties. The grapes remain on the branches until late autumn, exposed to fog and moist air masses coming from nearby rivers. The fruits dry out and wither, becoming sweet in taste and reminiscent of raisins. Such berries are called assu here.
3. Storage and aging in ancient cellars. In Tokaj, famous throughout the world for its sweet wines, there is a whole system of multi-story cellars built several centuries ago. They maintain ideal humidity and a constant temperature of 10–12 °C without any human effort. A special mold fungus lives on the walls of cellars and feeds on wine vapors. It creates a specific microclimate in the underground, which determines the original aroma of famous drinks.

The best Hungarian wines

The classification of drinks is as follows: premium wines, the quality of which is strictly controlled; vintage; local; dining rooms

1. Tokaji wines

   They belong to the category of white dessert drinks. It got its name from a mountain range located on the territory of Hungary and Slovakia. Due to their unique taste they are called “liquid gold”; at one time they were popular at the royal court and were highly valued by Voltaire and Goethe. These sweet wines are made from golden grapes dried in the sun. The taste is dominated by honey notes with a pronounced raisin aroma. There are several types of famous drinks: Tokay native, Tokay-asu, Tokay essence.

   

2. Eger ox blood (Egri bikavér)

   Red wine, the blend of which was originally dominated by the Kadarka variety. Today it is made from different fruits: local (kekfrankos, portugieser, etc.) and imported (cabernet, merlot, pinot noir). The wine is characterized by a harmonious combination of fruit, berry and spicy flavors. The color is bright, rich, dark red with a transition to brown. Traditionally, the drink is made from a mixture of varieties (at least three), none of which should dominate, and the “bull’s blood” is aged in wooden barrels for 1 year or more. The strength of the wine reaches 12–15%. They drink it chilled (16–18°), combining it with game, liver and beef dishes.

   

3. Soproni Kekfrankos

   Wine from the North Transdanubia region with an intense garnet color and a velvety enveloping aroma. The taste has tartness and sourness. The alcohol content is about 12% and complements meat snacks well.

   

4. Balaton Boglári Muskotály

   White Muscat semi-sweet wine, which is produced in the wine-growing area near Lake Balaton, popular among tourists. It is produced by the Balatonboglar Winery plant. The wine is made from the fruits of Muskotai Ottonel, it has a mild spicy taste, is easy to drink, and goes well with desserts. Strength – 9%.

   

5. Kadarka

   A popular budget Hungarian drink that has many analogues in other countries. The original wine is produced from the variety of the same name with fruits of a dark, almost black color. Kadarka's bouquet is light, combining the juiciness of fruit and the sweetness of vanilla, with a slight hint of bitterness.

   

The drinks listed are just a drop in the deep and wide sea of ​​wine in Hungary. The best way to try local products is at annual festivals and carnivals dedicated to winemaking and presenting a rich variety of tastes and aromas.

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In terms of taste, Hungarian wines can compete with world-recognized French and Spanish brands, and the legendary Tokay-Asu, according to connoisseurs, even surpasses them in many ways. The art of winemaking arose on the territory of the state back in the days of the ancient Celts. In past centuries, European monarchs ordered Hungarian wines to their table, which only proved their exceptional quality. A gastronomic tour to the country of the Magyars with a visit to wineries is a non-standard idea for your next vacation, but before the trip you need to be fully prepared: know where to go, what to try and bring with you.

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Regions and varieties

In the Tokaj region, located in the north of the country, several varieties of world-famous wine are produced: “Tokay-Asu”, “Tokay-Soraz”, “Tokay-Edesh”. These are exquisite drinks with a thick aroma of honey and spices, which leave a “candy” berry-fruit aftertaste. They go great with nuts, cheeses and desserts.

Wine tours

The most suitable place for tasting is the resort towns in the vicinity of lakes Balaton and Heviz: Egredy, Badacsony, Csopak, Keszthely. The owners of nearby wineries organize tours of the cellars and offer to taste unique varieties in a welcoming home environment.

Another way to get in touch with the secrets of Hungarian winemaking is through festivals: Rosalia in Budapest, Bull's Blood in Eger, Tokaj Wine Festival in Tokaj, as well as numerous wine festivals in towns on Lake Balaton. During these events, in addition to tasting and getting to know the unique traditions of the country, guests can take part in the harvest and even in the production process.

In wineries, for a “set” of 3-5 varieties they will ask from 500 HUF. In the Eger wine valley, which is reached by a tourist train, in tasting bars at restaurants, a 100 ml glass costs from 100 HUF.

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If you only have enough time to visit Budapest, it doesn’t matter. The capital of Hungary has many establishments where the wine diversity of all regions is presented.. For example, Faust's cellar at Hess Andras ter 1-3 (territory of the Hilton Hotel), Domus Vinorum (Bajcsy-Zsilinszky utca, 18) and Kadarka Bar (Kiraly utca, 42) received excellent reviews.

What to take with you

In shops and tourist shops in Budapest, Debrecen, as well as the resort towns of Lake Balaton, the most popular brands of Hungarian wine are sold at a cost of 1000-1500 HUF. As a rule, this is a line of white Tokay and red Oxblood. In large supermarkets you can also find less common items at attractive prices (800-1200 HUF). But for rare varieties, you need to go directly to the wineries and cellars of Budapest, Eger and Tokaj, where, after tasting, buy one or two bottles with an original taste and, sometimes, a completely unpronounceable name.

Customs

No matter how great the desire to fill half a suitcase with wonderful Magyar wine, according to customs rules You can import no more than 3 liters of alcohol into Russia free of charge and up to 5 liters - with payment of a state duty of 10 EUR per liter. So, you need to approach your purchase with special care and try to choose the very best.

Hungarian winemaking has a rich and complex history, during which vineyards throughout the country were repeatedly destroyed. Hungarian wine began to be produced again in the late 80s of the last century, and today it is again famous throughout the world for its quality and exquisite taste.

Features of Hungarian winemaking

Wine from Hungary is unique due to the diversity of soils and climatic regimes in the country, which allows the cultivation of various types of grapes from traditional ones, such as Furmint, Hárslevelű, etc., to international ones, for example, of French origin - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot etc. Hungarian wines are produced in 22 wine regions, which are divided into 7 large zones, characterized by the types of grapes grown and wine styles.

Wine regions

Balaton (west of Hungary) is famous for its white varieties with a slight sourness, the Danube region (between the Danube and Tisza rivers) for its light and fresh types. Eger (north) is also famous for its white varieties, but mostly for its rich red varieties with moderate acidity.

Northern Transdanubia region – exclusively white varieties. Pannon (south, including the city of Vilan) - luxurious red wines. Sopron (near the Austrian-Hungarian border) – rich red and white varieties with pronounced acidity. Tokaj (near the border with Slovakia) – sweet (dessert) and dry white varieties.

Classification of Hungarian wines

Hungarian wines are divided into 4 categories:

• highest category, with a protected designation of origin (must be produced only in one specified place in the wine region, characterized by high requirements for production technology, yield and grape varieties in Hungary);
• high-quality, with a protected geographical indication (the production process can cover several places within one wine region, there are strict requirements for production technology and raw materials);
• regional (produced indicating the wine-making region, there are no strict requirements for the number of varieties included);
• canteens are light, with a minimum alcohol content (the wine region is not indicated in the name, and are produced without strict quality requirements).

The best wines of Hungary

Hungarian wines are valued all over the world, have a unique taste and aroma, and their diversity allows you to choose the optimal characteristics for each connoisseur, as among them there is red and white, sweet and spicy, fresh, sour or slightly smoky.

Tokaji Aszú

Tokay-Asu is a sweet dessert wine of golden color, the sweetness depends on the amount of dried grapes added: the more added, the sweeter it is.

Golden nutmeg (Tokaji Sárgamuskotály)

White semi-sweet with fruity notes. Made from yellow muscat grapes in the Tokaj region.

Oxblood (Egri Bikaver)

“Bull's blood” - according to the requirements must contain at least 50% of varieties such as Kékfrankos or Kadarka. The total number of varieties included in the composition must be at least 3, which ensures a fruity, spicy aroma.

Kadarka

Spicy, aromatic, ruby-colored wine with moderate acidity. Produced in the Szekszárd wine region

Kekfrankos or Blue Frankish

Made from the grape variety of the same name in the Sopron region. Red, with high acidity, spicy notes and aroma of wild berries.

Badacsony Szürkebarát

Wine from the northern shores of Lake Balaton. White, semi-sweet or dry (depending on the aging period) with a rich citrus flavor.

Cabernet Franc

Produced in the Vilan region. A graceful, complex, yet balanced red, the aroma of alpine berries can be felt. Characterized by long ripening (10-15 years to achieve optimal taste). The Cabernet Franc grape variety is also used to produce rosé varieties.

Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the pearls of the Vilan district. It has a rich garnet red color and a complex aroma of fruit and autumn foliage. To reveal all the taste qualities, it requires ripening for 5-10 years.

Merlot

One of the varieties for which Vilan is famous. The wine has a deep red color, a rich aroma of raspberries and roses and a sour taste.

Juhfark

Translated from Hungarian – “sheep’s tail”. It is grown on the volcanic soils of Shomlo (part of the Balaton zone). White, has a light aroma of smoke and lemon.

Tokaj wine is produced in the region of the same name in Hungary (partially extending into the territory of Slovakia). The area is famous for sweet wines made from berries affected by gray rot - the so-called “noble mold”. This drink is so famous that it is even mentioned in the Hungarian national anthem.

Historical reference. It is not known for certain when vineyards appeared on the volcanic soils of the Tokaj region, but legend claims that the first Tokaj wine was made in 1630. In fact, it most likely happened even earlier - in the 1570s. In 1730, all vineyards were sorted into three categories based on soil type, climatic conditions and the amount of gray rot affecting the vines. Accordingly, the wines were labeled first, second or third class.

In 1920, after the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, a tiny part of the Tokaj wine region became territory of Czechoslovakia (now Slovakia), while the main area remained in Hungary.

Hungarian wine is called Tokaji ("Tokay"), and this is a name controlled by origin. Wine produced in the Slovak part of the region can be called Tokajský/-á/-é (“Tokay”), but only if it fully complies with all Hungarian quality requirements.

Production Features

The Tokaj area is located at an altitude of 457 meters above sea level, near the Carpathian Mountains. The soil is of volcanic origin and is rich in iron and lime. Thanks to the combination of geographical characteristics, a unique climate has been established here: frosty and windy winters, cool dry springs, hot summers and rainy autumns with a long Indian summer.

Tokaj wines can only be produced from six grape varieties:

• Furmint;
• Harshlevelu (Hárslevelű);
• Yellow Muscat (Yellow Muscat or Sargamuskotaly);
• Zeta (Zeta, autochthonous variety);
• Kövérszőlő;
• Kabar.

Furmint is the base grape variety for Tokaj wines.

The main variety is Furmint, which accounts for approximately 60%, another 30% comes from Harshlevelya, and only 10% from all other varieties. A wide range of wines are made from these berries, ranging from dry whites to the sweetest wine in the world – Eszencia (“Essence”).

Most Tokaj wines are made from berries called Aszú, which are sun-dried grapes infected with botrytis fungus. The sun's rays penetrate deep into the pulp and evaporate most of the liquid, as a result the grapes become raisinized and the concentration of sugar in the berries increases. All varieties are harvested as ripe as possible, and they wait until gray rot appears on the berries. On average, the region produces about 10 million liters of wine per year.

Types of Hungarian wine Tokaj

Dry wines

A relatively new phenomenon, as the Tokaj region is primarily known for sweet wines. Made mainly from the Furmint variety, they are distinguished by mineral notes in the bouquet. Experts say that in terms of complexity of taste, these brands can be compared with Burgundy and Mosel wines. Previously they belonged to the category of ordinary wines, but now dry Tokaj wines are usually called by the grape variety: Tokaj Furmint, Tokaj Harshlevelu, etc.

Samorodny (Szamorodni)

At first it was called főbor (“first wine”), but already in the 1820s it received its current name. It is made from berries that are severely affected by the fungus Botrystis gray (the causative agent of gray rot). More often, the wine turns out to be a little stronger than its analogues (about 14%) and falls into the sweet category.

The grapes are harvested late, at the end of autumn, and before that the vines are tied so that the berries raisinize. The finished wine is added to the fermented pulp, and this “blend” is sent to age in barrels.

Aszú

When they say “Tokai” in Europe, they most often mean this particular wine. Although the term Aszú translates from Hungarian as “dry,” it is a sweet drink with a bright yellow color. To make it, berries of only one variety are collected, but in several stages. The first harvest (the very end of summer - the beginning of autumn) is used for base wine. In November the time for the second harvest comes. The dried berries are collected by hand into special “putton” baskets, ground to a paste (the so-called “Asu dough”), poured with base wine and left for 1-2 days, stirring occasionally. The mixture is then poured into wooden barrels and left to mature for several years (up to 10).

Traditional Hungarian grape harvest baskets

The sweetness and concentration of the final product depend on the number of puttons included in one barrel; usually this figure varies from 3 to 6 (the more, the sweeter the drink). If there are more “baskets”, such a wine is called “Asu-Essentia”. The alcohol content of Asu wines often exceeds 14%.

Tokaj wines are usually golden

Essence (Eszencia)

Often called nectar, it is considered one of the most exclusive wines, although formally it does not even belong to the category of wine, since the highest sugar content (500-700 g/l) does not allow the strength to exceed 5-6 degrees. The essence is often added to Asu wines, but sometimes it is sent to the full fermentation process (takes about 4 years), bottled and released on the market as a separate drink. The wine turns out to be so sweet that it can only be drunk in small portions, but this type does not lose its aroma, taste and other organoleptic properties even after 200 years of storage.

Manufacturing method: low fermentation. Only the ripest and raisiest berries are suitable for “Essence”. They are not pressed - the juice flows out under its own weight. The amount of raw material produced is small, but it is very concentrated, so the sugar content in the final product can even reach 900 g/l.

Essence - the sweetest wine in the world

Forditás

Grape must (unrefined juice) is poured into the pulp (Asu dough), which has already been used once to produce wine.

Mashlash (Máslás)

Must is poured over the yeast sediment from Asu and left for up to one and a half months.

Ice wine

Introduced in 1999, it is obtained from frozen berries.

How to drink Tokaji wines

Sweet white wines, including Tokaj, are served in small pot-bellied glasses, since you can’t drink much dessert alcohol. They can be cooled to 11-14°C or served at room temperature. Tokaj wines are enjoyed with fruits, nuts, cheeses, desserts and fish. It is not customary to snack on “essence”.

The best snack for sweet varieties is wine

Tokaj is one of the few wines that you don’t have to finish drinking. An open bottle can be corked, hidden in the refrigerator and taken out as needed. The increased sugar content will prevent the drink from spoiling and stale for at least a couple of weeks, and in the case of “Essentia” – several months.