Install water supply in a private house. Water distribution in a private house - do-it-yourself water supply installation

Even an inexperienced craftsman can install the water supply system of a private home with his own hands. Manufacturers of modern water fittings have done everything possible to simplify the technology for joining water supply elements. And we will tell you about the procedure for installing a home water supply system - from marking the lines to running water into the taps.

How does household plumbing work?

In most cases, the water supply to a private home is based on an autonomous source of drinking quality. This could be a well or a borehole. Therefore, the internal water supply in the house starts from the pumping station, or more precisely, from the first shut-off valve, which cuts off the pressure unit from the distribution.

Behind this valve there is a cold water branch and a hot water supply (DHW) line. And in most cases, the hot water supply line is formed on the basis of a branch from a cold pipeline, which goes into a heating device that generates hot water.

Sources of consumption - taps, mixers, dishwashers and washing machines, waste tanks, etc. - are connected to the cold and hot branches using taps cut into the main hot or cold pipe or collector. In the latter case, the consumer is forced to buy more pipeline fittings. However, using a water collector will protect you from pressure surges in the network. Simply put: you won't get scalded by boiling water in the shower after someone uses the flush tank.

The joints of the bends and the center line are played out using tees. Turns (corner mates) are made using corners. To facilitate the repair process, a shut-off valve is installed into the outlet to the source of consumption. It allows you not to turn off the water in the entire house in case of repair of one tap.

As you can see, a typical water supply installation in a private house is very simple. Any novice mechanic can assemble such a network. And you need to start designing a water supply network by calculating the footage of pipes and the number of connecting and shut-off fittings.

How to calculate pipe footage and number of fittings

If the water supply is based on the main pipe, then water distribution in a private house begins with laying a central line encircling the perimeter of the building. The footage of the pipes in this case is equal to twice the sum of all the houses (two perimeters).

With the collector the situation is more complicated. In this case, a separate line will go to each tap. Therefore, the footage in this case can only be determined from a full-scale diagram, by drawing lines on the walls along which the wiring will be laid. After completing the drawing, measure the length of the lines and record the footage of the cold and hot branches.

If you are building a water supply system with your own hands, the full-scale wiring diagram will not fit in any case. Take blue and red crayons in your hands and draw the trajectory of laying cold and hot pipes on the walls, indicating the positions of tees, corners and shut-off valves with arbitrary icons. This drawing will help you not to make a mistake with the length of the pipes and the number of valves, and during installation it can be used as a contour for laying the fixing elements that hold the pipes on the wall.

The number of corner fittings is determined by turns (corner mates). The number of valves is calculated according to the sources of consumption (one per source, plus one more if we are talking about a mixer). Tees are counted only when installing a water supply system based on the central line, determining their number by the number of valves.

After that calculation and subsequent purchase of fittings and fittings, you can do it in any private house literally in a day. We will tell you how this is done further, discussing both the cold and hot branches of the water supply separately.

How to install a cold water line

Installation of cold water supply in a private house begins with the installation of a collector. This unit is placed in the kitchen area if it is located near the toilet and bathroom. Otherwise, the collector is placed closer to the sanitary zone. Moreover, this work is easy to do with your own hands - to do this you need to do the following:

1. We buy a collector, the number of outlets of which is equal to the number of consumption sources.
2. We fix it on the wall using screw clamps with a self-tapping leg or brackets on the distributor body.
3. We lay a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of ¾ inches from the central valve of the water supply to the inlet pipe of the manifold, using push-in fittings for mating.
4. Using the same fittings, we arrange bends with a diameter of ½ inch from the collector to the points of consumption, laying pipes in the baseboard area. Moreover, a valve should be installed between the pipe and the collector, closing each outlet.
5. Having reached the outlet under the sink (tank, tray or bathtub), we create a vertical section, raising the pipe above the floor by 50 cm.
6. We connect the pipe and the tap (mixer or tank) with a bellows or reinforced hose.

Finally, we install the faucet on the sink and connect the drain to the sewer. And we repeat this operation with all points of consumption. At this point, the installation of the cold branch can be considered complete.

How to install a hot water supply line

The DHW branch is made in almost the same way as the cold water supply. Only instead of a central valve, the starting point for the hot line is the cold branch manifold.

From this distributor we run a ½ inch line to the heater. Moreover, at the connection point you need to embed a check valve so that the water from the boiler or heat exchanger of the column does not drain back. It is described in a separate article.

The next step is to install a hot water collector. It is placed either under the boiler, or in the bathroom or kitchen. Next, a ½-inch diameter pipe is pulled to the wall-mounted distributor, connecting the manifold and the “hot” fitting of the boiler/boiler.

Finally, separate hot water supply lines are connected to each mixer, connecting the taps and the distributor. Moreover, to facilitate connecting the pipeline to the tap, you can use a bellows hose. The reinforced version is not recommended in this case - it is designed for cold water.

If the house has no more than 2-3 sources of hot water consumption, then the collector can be replaced with a pair of tees, laying a central line to the shower or faucet in the bathroom, and arranging an outlet to the kitchen. But in this case, be prepared for pressure surges if you use faucets in the bathroom and kitchen at the same time.

How to save money on plumbing installation

Installing a water supply system in a private home will cost much less if you follow a few tips. First, stop using elbow fittings. A metal-plastic pipe can be bent along a 25-centimeter radius, fitting into any turn.

Secondly, special manifolds with shut-off units at each outlet will help save on valves mounted under each entrance to the faucet or mixer. Third, consider the location of the flow splitter. Ideally, it should be between the kitchen and the bathroom. But if there are more taps in the bathroom, then it is better to move the manifold there. In this case, you will only spend money on one kitchen outlet.

Fourthly, if the distributor and the consuming device are separated by 2-2.5 meters, then instead of pipeline fittings you can use a reinforcing or bellows hose of the appropriate length. Fifthly, when choosing between metal-plastic and polypropylene, vote for the first option. Polypropylene pipes are installed using a special welding machine or expensive electric couplings. Therefore, professionals will have to be involved in such work. In addition, polypropylene does not bend like metal-plastic.

If you listen to these tips, you will be able to save up to 10-15 percent on the cost of consumables.

Today, not a single private home can be imagined without a water supply system. And we are talking not only about large and beautiful cottages, but also about simple country houses.

The water supply system of a private house can be designed in different ways, that is, there is more than one scheme, but the principles of the device always remain the same.

Water supply diagram in a private house

Indeed, any water supply scheme can be taken as a basis, if we consider it from the point of view of appearance or the presence of any individual elements in it, for example, a hydraulic accumulator. However, according to the method of connecting consumers, the scheme is divided into only two types:

A diagram where the consumers are connected in series;
A diagram where the consumers are connected in parallel.

A circuit with a series connection is perfect for installing water supply systems in a small private house, the area of which is small and there are not many consumers in it. This is so because a serial connection implies that the water supply goes from one consumer to another, that is, first from the source, then, for example, to the washbasin, from the washbasin to the sanitary unit, and so on.

This connection leads to the fact that when the first 2-3 consumers are turned on, there is practically no pressure in the last one.

The installation of water supply systems in a private house according to this scheme is quite simple. From the source, the water supply goes to the first consumer. A tee is installed on the pipe, that is, one input and two outputs to this consumer, and to all other consumers.

A parallel scheme implies a slightly different connection of consumers. This scheme includes such an element as a collector. From this collector a water pipeline is laid to each of the consumers.

It must be said that the connection of water supply systems according to both of these schemes can be carried out, both from central water supply systems and from a well or well.

So, in general, the composition of water supply systems is as follows:

Source (the watershed can be made from central water supply systems, a well or a well);
Pump or pumping station (only for a well or well);
It is desirable to have a hydraulic accumulator that will accumulate water;
A water filter that will purify it;

Advice! It is recommended to install a tee with shut-off valves immediately after the hydraulic accumulator. In this case, one outlet is used for water supply for the house, and the other for water supply for the garden. In this case, naturally, the filter must be installed on the outlet that is used for the water supply of the house.

After various filters, it is necessary to make another tee, which will separate the future hot and cold water supply;
Next, the cold water pipe is connected to the cold water collector. The collector, in turn, must contain shut-off valves at each individual outlet;
The hot water supply should be routed to the heater. This can be a gas boiler or a heating boiler;
The hot water pipe must be routed to the hot water collector.

It must be said that the system may also contain other elements, for example, a pressure sensor, automatic pumping station and others.

Using a well or well

As can be seen from all of the above, there is nothing complicated about installing water supply systems in a private home. The biggest difficulties arise at the stage of constructing a well or borehole.

In general, initially there is a question of choice - to take water for a private house from a well or well. Of course, digging a well is much easier, since its depth rarely reaches even 10 meters. But the depth of the well sometimes reaches 30.

However, the water from the well is quite contaminated, so the water supply must contain several filters at once - coarse and fine.

The well will require the purchase of a more expensive submersible pump.

In general, water supply in a private house from a well will look like this:

Submersible pump;
Adapter (nipple);
Non-return valve, which serves to prevent water from flowing back;
Pipe;
Shut-off valves;
Filter;
A five-piece to which automation is connected, for example, a pressure switch, and a pressure gauge;
Hydraulic accumulator.

It must be said that water supply from a well or a well in a private house must be arranged using a hydraulic accumulator.

Do-it-yourself plumbing installation

Installation of a water supply system in a private house must include several successive stages, as well as several preliminary calculations. One of these calculations is to determine the required pipe diameter.

Pipe diameter selection

So, it must immediately be said that an incorrectly chosen diameter leads to undesirable consequences. For example, if it is too small, the water will move noisily. And if it is very large, then some of the pressure is lost and extra money is spent.

Without delving into serious calculations, we can safely say that the diameter of the pipe depends on the length of the water supply system of a private house. Therefore, to make the right choice, you should calculate the total length:

If it does not exceed 30 meters, then material with an internal diameter of 25 mm will be sufficient;
If it is more than 30 meters, then it is better to choose 32 mm material;
If the pipeline is less than 10 meters long, then material with diameters of 16 or 20 mm will be sufficient.

However, that's not all. There is also a pipe for the collector. In many ways, it depends on it whether the water supply system will provide a sufficient amount of liquid to all consumers.

Here you need to accept the fact that one tap passes about 5 liters of liquid in one minute. Then all that remains is to count the number of such consumers and compare them with the following data:

A diameter of 25 mm passes approximately 30 liters in 1 minute;
A diameter of 32 mm passes about 50 liters in 1 minute;
A diameter of 38 mm passes about 75 liters in 1 minute.

Advice! If a family living in a private house consists of 4 or more people, then about 40% should be added to the calculated values, since in such a situation it is not uncommon for all consumers to be involved at once.

Selecting the required material

The installation of a water supply system must first be accompanied not only by calculations of the diameter of the pipes, but also by the choice of the material from which they are made.

Today on the market you can find products made from the following materials:

Copper;
Metal-plastic;
Steel;
Cross-linked polypropylene.

Products made from each of these materials have their own disadvantages and advantages. For example, copper pipes are very durable and do not corrode. Making a plumbing system out of copper means making it last for decades. The disadvantage is their price.

Metal-plastic products are aluminum pipes that are coated on both sides with a layer of polyethylene. Such products are not afraid of corrosion, deposits do not accumulate inside, polyethylene is also not afraid of open sunlight, as well as various impurities in the liquid. One drawback is that such water supply systems do not allow high temperatures, more than 95 degrees. Therefore, they are best suited for cold water supply systems from a well or well.

Steel products are one of those that occupy the golden mean. They are strong and durable, and relatively inexpensive. However, they are highly susceptible to corrosion. In addition, such products do not have any special devices for installation, so the installation of water supply systems for a private house must be accompanied by threading on each individual element.

Polypropylene materials have not been on the market for long, but have already gained great popularity. They are durable, do not oxidize and are not subject to corrosion. Installing a water supply system for a private home using them is simple and quick. The biggest disadvantage is that connecting them requires a special tool - a soldering iron.

Advice! When choosing polypropylene pipes for hot water supply to a private home, you need to choose those that are reinforced, for example, with fiberglass or aluminum.

How to make a wiring

Distribution is the installation of pipes to all necessary places, that is, to all consumers.

Let's start moving from the source to the consumers. As an example, let's take a more productive parallel wiring diagram.

So, first we connect to the source. If water is taken from a well or borehole, a pump is lowered into it. For a well, choose a submersible one, for a well, a surface one.

Advice! The choice of pump should be based on a parameter such as power or performance.

So, the pipe is connected to the pump, usually with a clamp. Less commonly, a threaded adapter serves as a connector. The same adapter is used when connecting to a central water supply system.

If the pressure in the system is not able to provide all people with the required amount of liquid;
If frequent interruptions in water supply occur.

The installation of the hydraulic accumulator is carried out, as a rule, in the highest, but at the same time easily accessible place.

After the hydraulic accumulator, a tee with shut-off valves is installed. From one outlet the installation is carried out to the water heating device, and from the other - to the cold water supply collector.

As noted above, the water supply may have a filter, or even several. It is recommended to install filters before the heating element and before the cold water supply collector.

The water supply is laid from the boiler to the hot water supply collector.

From two collectors, from each circuit, wiring is carried out to consumers.

As for devices such as a pressure gauge and a meter, their installation is handled by the appropriate service, and they are placed at the entrance to the house.

So, to install pipes around the house, various additional elements are used, that is, tees, angles, adapters from one diameter to another, and so on.

When performing such work, you should adhere to the following rules:

The pipes must be laid bypassing all building structures. If it is not possible to carry it out in this way, then the pipe must pass through the wall in a special glass;
All elements in a private house should be installed so that they are separated from the walls at a certain distance, for example, 25 mm - this will facilitate the repair procedure;
If the water supply system has a drain tap or several taps, then a slight slope is made in their direction. The same applies to the hydraulic accumulator;
When going around an outer corner, the pipe should be placed 15 mm from it, and when going around an internal corner - 40 mm;
It is best to fasten water supply elements to the walls using special clips, single or double. They are placed at a distance of 2 meters from each other.

Connection of polypropylene pipes

So, as already mentioned, when laying water supply systems made of polypropylene materials, a special tool is required - a soldering iron.

So, the sequence of working with it is as follows:

The elements for the water supply are cut into pieces of the required length. To do this, it is best to use special scissors, which should be held strictly perpendicular. It must also be said that the same pipes are used for hot and cold water supply systems, that is, reinforced polyethylene;
On the cut pieces a mark is placed on the welding depth, about 16 mm;
Welding areas are degreased;
Install a nozzle of the required diameter on the soldering iron;
Heat the soldering iron to a temperature of 260 degrees;
Pieces of pipes are placed on the nozzles, but turning them is prohibited;
After starting to put on, count 5-7 seconds and remove the pipes from the nozzle;
The heated pipes are connected to each other, or the water supply and fitting are connected;
The elements are held in this position for several seconds.

This is how every two elements of the water supply system in a private house are soldered.

Do-it-yourself water supply in a private house can be done from a central water supply or from a well (well). The principles of its creation, the main components of the system in each of these cases are virtually the same.

Selecting a wiring diagram

There are two ways to supply water to points of consumption, and the choice of a water supply layout in a private house with your own hands depends on the parameters of the system, as well as on the intensity of water consumption (permanent or periodic residence, number of residents, etc.).

Serial connection

This connection is also called tee. The tap, shower and other points are connected in series. This method requires the use of fewer materials (pipes, fittings, etc.), and is therefore cheaper.

The disadvantage of a series connection when laying out a water supply system is the likelihood of a decrease in pressure pressure at the most remote points when several water intake points are used simultaneously.

Collector connection

Collector (or parallel) connection is the organization of a collector (or two collectors - hot and cold water supply), to which lines leading to each water intake point are connected. To implement such a scheme, a larger number of pipes will be required, but its operating principle is allows for stable pressure.

There are additional nuances when choosing the principle of water supply. Do-it-yourself installation of water supply in a private house can be done in two ways:

"Blind" lines ending in a dead end (stub). This scheme for wiring the water supply system in the house is more economical, however, when supplying hot water, it can create some inconvenience - when opening the tap, you must wait a certain time until the liquid reaches the plug, and only after that hot water appears in the tap.
Circulation closed lines more practical and convenient, however, to implement such a project you will need not only a larger number of pipes, but also a special circulation pump.

Experts recognize the most rational combination option, in which the “blind” cold water distribution is combined with a hot water supply circulation line.

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

pumping unit for a well or borehole,
nipple (adapter),
preventing reverse,
pipeline,
filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),
shut-off valves,
five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pipes).

Sequence of water supply scheme

In order to visualize how to install water in a private house with your own hands, you can consider the flow of communications from the source to the end point.

1. An individual water unit (well or borehole) is equipped with pumping equipment, the selection of which is carried out according to the following principles:

for deep artesian wells only submersible pumps can be used,
for narrow channels and casing pipes - only surface units, including pumping stations,
in other cases, the choice between submersible and external equipment is made depending on the technical characteristics of specific models and operating conditions.

2. The pipeline supplying water to the house is usually laid underground. The depth of the trench is usually selected taking into account the depth of soil freezing in a given region. As additional protection against freezing, communications are equipped with a thermal insulation layer.

Plumbing a house from

3. The point at which the pipeline enters the house deserves special attention.

Firstly, the hole for the pipe is made with a large margin - a gap of at least 150 mm on all sides. This allows you to avoid deformation and destruction of communications if over time the wall begins to sag or deform.
Secondly, a small section of pipe, located between underground and ground-protected communications and internal wiring in a warm room, is located in the open air. This is where the risk of pipeline freezing is highest, so good thermal insulation is required.

4. The hydraulic accumulator and control devices are installed, as a rule, in the basement, basement or on the first floor near the point of entry of the pipeline into the house. Technically, it would be more correct to place such equipment at the highest point, but from the point of view of practicality and ease of use, lower levels are more suitable. You should only take into account the need to raise water to the upper floors at.

The hydraulic accumulator is designed to stabilize pressure in communications and prevent frequent switching on (and, accordingly, rapid wear) of pumping equipment.

The control and monitoring unit includes a pressure gauge, pressure switch and, which prevents air entrapment and the formation of air locks in the system when the water level in the well or well decreases.

5. Filter systems are equipped, depending on the need, with devices for:

preliminary rough removal of large particles of impurities (more about),
fine cleaning,
water softening.

Afterwards, you install the water supply system in a private house with your own hands according to the chosen scheme. For a collector circuit it might look like this:

Immediately behind the accumulator there is a tee along with a shut-off valve. The tee divides the flow of water into two directions - into the house and for other needs (watering, car washing, etc.);
A deep cleaning filter is connected;
Next comes a tee, from which the water supply pipes in a private house are divided into a pipe for cold water, which immediately goes to the cold water collector, and into a pipe through which the water will go to a boiler or another for heating. After heating, the water is sent to the hot water manifold.

The photo shows a diagram of water distribution in a private house

Important: When installing water supply in a private house with your own hands using a collector circuit, it is necessary to install shut-off valves at each point of water consumption.

Pipe selection

Diameter of communications

When installing a water supply system into a private house with your own hands, the right one will ensure efficiency at the installation stage of the system, as well as avoid unpleasant noise when water moves through communications.

To calculate the parameters of lines supplying water to points of consumption, the starting point is total length of each line:

for a branch less than 10 meters long, pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm can be used,
for branches of about 30 meters - with a diameter of 25 mm,
For the longest lines over 30 meters, pipes with a maximum diameter of 32 mm are required.

Important: Particular attention should be paid to choosing the diameter of the collector pipe. An insufficient value can cause problems in the system.

The distribution of water in a private house from the collector is calculated based on the fact that each tap has a throughput capacity of about 5 liters per minute. After this, roughly calculate how much water is taken simultaneously from all points at peak moments and select the diameter of the collector:

25 mm for a flow rate of 30 l/min,
32 mm for 50 l,
38 mm for 75 l.

Pipe material

Laying a water supply system in a private house allows you to use pipes made of various materials, each of which has its own advantages, disadvantages and operating features.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.
Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. The inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer corner 15 mm.
If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.
The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.
All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.
Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.
A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.

If the village has a public winter water supply, then you need to connect to it. To do this, first of all, you need to find out who the owner of the water supply system is in order to conclude an agreement. After this, all that remains is to connect to the central pipe, extend the water pipe to the house (at a depth greater than the freezing depth) and install the internal wiring. If there is no winter central water supply, then it is necessary to make an autonomous water supply system from a well or from a borehole.

It is important to correctly design the water supply system in a wooden house so that there are no leaks and it is not difficult to eliminate accidents. All connecting elements must be easily accessible, and in cold weather water should not freeze in any part of the water supply system.

Dig or drill?

Digging a well with an aquifer depth of up to 15-20 meters will cost a little less than drilling a well of the same depth. And cleaning a well if it becomes silted is easier than cleaning a well.

On the other hand, the flow rate (productivity) of a well is usually small, especially in the dry season: in the heat, the well can become shallow and even dry out. However, a shallow sand well can also dry up during a drought, although not as quickly as a well.

So you need to look at whether the well’s productivity is enough for you and whether the wells in a given area dry up in the hot summer, and then decide what to choose - a well or a well.

Well water

When the depth of the aquifer in the well is less than 8 meters, then you can pump water from such a well using a surface pump: it is cheaper and easier to operate. If water consumption is not very large, then it may be advisable to purchase a pumping station: this is a surface pump, structurally combined with a small-volume hydropneumatic tank and equipped with a pressure switch that automatically turns the pump on and off as needed.

If the water level in the well is below eight meters, then a submersible pump is needed. A submersible pump operating in automatic mode must be protected from “dry running” in case the water in the well runs out. For this purpose, submersible pumps are equipped with a float.

If the water pressure created by a single-stage submersible pump is insufficient for a given well depth, then multistage pumps are used. All this, of course, is reflected in the price.
It is advisable to cover the well with a lid so that in winter the water does not freeze at the point where the water pipe exits the concrete well.

Well water

There are wells that take water from a sand lens - in this case, the water is no different from a well - and artesian wells drilled into a layer of limestone, in the depths of which there is an underground lake. Artesian water is a strategic resource and permission is required to drill an artesian well.

The depth of artesian water in different areas of the Moscow region varies widely - from 40 to 200 meters.

During a drought, the sand lens sometimes dries out. The amount of artesian water does not depend on the weather.
Another feature of artesian water, and not the most pleasant one, is increased hardness and a noticeable content of iron ions. Artesian water requires softening and removal of iron. The water from a sand lens, in terms of its composition and bacterial contamination, can turn out to be anything - excellent or unsuitable for drinking. Therefore, after drilling a well, it would be reasonable to submit the water for analysis to a laboratory in order to know in advance whether a water treatment system (filtration and purification) will be required and from what impurities.

The power and performance of a pump for a well are selected based on the depth of the well, its flow rate, the required pressure in the water supply system of a wooden house and the expected water consumption. A sand well pump must be protected by a sand filter and, like a well pump, equipped with protection against dry running. An artesian well does not require a sand filter.
The pump is attached to the well head, protected by a caisson, with a stainless steel cable. Lifting it for repair or replacement is not an easy task, so it is desirable that the well pump be as reliable as possible. In particular, Grundfos well pumps are considered proven and reliable.

Supplying water to the house

The installation of a water pipe from a well or borehole to a house is carried out at a depth exceeding the average depth of soil freezing. The entry point is located under the house, preferably in the area of the bathroom and kitchen, and, if necessary, insulated to eliminate the risk of freezing.

How is water supply arranged in a wooden house?

In addition to the pump and external pipe, the autonomous water supply system includes a hydropneumatic tank, a hot water preparation system, water pipes and, if required, a water treatment system. Let's look at all these elements.

Water treatment

It is possible to decide whether a water treatment system is needed or not in each specific case only on the basis of a water analysis. Excessive hardness (calcium ion content) leads to the formation of scale on dishes and rapid failure of washing machines and dishwashers. In principle, it is possible to drink water with excess levels of iron, but it is not very beneficial for health. Therefore, in a house where people live permanently, it is advisable to purify such water from iron ions. Cloudy water will have to be purified from mechanical impurities. Bacterial contamination inevitably leads to the need for bacterial cleaning.

Water purification and softening occurs in a sequential chain of filters. The choice of a set of filters and their performance depends on the chemical composition of the water, its contamination and water consumption in the house.

Water treatment system tanks take up quite a lot of space. It may turn out that they will require a separate room or, in any case, a significant area. Therefore, it is advisable to conduct a water analysis before the house is designed and built.

Hydropneumatic tank

To avoid having to store a significant supply of water and at the same time maintain pressure in the system, a modern water supply system includes a hydropneumatic tank. Thanks to it, the pressure necessary to create a constant water pressure is maintained in the water supply. When the pressure in the system begins to drop, which is detected by the relay, the pump turns on and pumps up water. From the maximum operating frequency of the pump, indicated in its passport, and the expected water consumption, the capacity of the hydropneumatic tank is calculated, which can vary widely - from 8 to 500 liters.

A hydropneumatic tank can be placed in a house or at the head of a well at a depth exceeding the depth of soil freezing - the main thing is that the water in the tank does not freeze.

Preparing hot water in a wooden house

Hot water can be obtained in various ways: in double-circuit heating boilers, gas or electric water heaters. Both double-circuit boilers and water heaters come in two types: instantaneous or boiler. Flow-through ones do not require additional capacity - a boiler, but have low productivity. It is reasonable to use them in small houses with two plumbing points: a kitchen and a bathroom. For more water intake points, a boiler will most likely be needed. It is advisable to know its volume in advance: a large boiler may require a separate room. In addition, we must keep in mind that instantaneous electric water heaters consume a lot of power - will the allocated power be enough?

What kind of pipes are used in the water supply in a wooden house?

For hidden plumbing in the house, metal-plastic pipes are often used, which are supplied in rolls. Their main advantage is ease of installation.

If very high reliability is required or there is a risk of accidental freezing, then it is advisable to use cross-linked polyethylene pipes. These pipes from Rehau and Wirsbo are connected with highly reliable press fittings. In addition, they have the ability to restore their shape after deformation and, therefore, suffer less from water freezing than other pipes. They can be safely laid in concrete screed.

Open wiring is best done with rigid polypropylene pipes, which look the most aesthetically pleasing and also, within certain limits, expand when frozen.

Large-diameter food-grade PVC pipes are used as pressure pipes in the water supply system.

We carry out the entire scope of work on setting up water supply in a wooden house

The Country House company performs all engineering work related to the construction of wooden country houses. Including installation of autonomous water supply systems, laying and connecting water pipes, hydropneumatic tank, boiler, organization of water treatment and hot water supply.

Water supply to a house is an objective condition for the normal living of its residents. SNiP 2.04.01-85 “Rate of water consumption by consumers” regulates water consumption in the range from 80 to 230 liters. per day per resident. Consumption depends on the availability of centralized water supply, sewerage, bath or shower, the presence of a water heating column and other factors.

In multi-storey and communal buildings this issue is resolved by connecting to the central water supply system. For a private country house or cottage, you have to provide your own water supply.

Of course, once you can bring water from an external source in the amount of needs it will not be difficult. But how to provide water to a family for a long time?

This article will help solve this problem, in which the types of water supply, diagrams, systems and methods of their construction are structured in detail. The nuances of doing the main types of work with your own hands are also indicated.

Types and methods of water supply to a private home

From the perspective of the dependence of the water supply source on external factors, two fundamentally different types of water delivery to the user can be distinguished:

Centralized water supply at home

In essence, the same autonomous, but within the region. In this case, the user does not need to worry about arranging a source of water. All you need to do is connect (cut into) the central water main.

Connecting the house to the central water supply

All actions come down to the step-by-step implementation of a number of requirements, including:

contacting the regional utility organization MPUVKH KP "Vodokanal" (Municipal Enterprise "Water Supply and Sewerage Management"), which controls the central main;

obtaining technical characteristics of the insert. The document contains data on the location of connection of the user's pipe system to the main line and its depth. In addition, the diameter of the main pipes is indicated there and, accordingly, instructions for choosing home pipe distribution. The water pressure indicator (guaranteed water pressure) is also indicated here;

receive an estimate for connection, which is developed by a utility or contractor;

control the execution of work. Which are also usually performed by UPKH;

perform system testing.

Advantages of central water supply: convenience, simplicity.

Disadvantages: fluctuations in water pressure, questionable quality of incoming water, dependence on central supplies, high cost of water.

Autonomous water supply at home

You can independently provide water supply to your dacha, private or country house using an autonomous water supply. In essence, this is an integrated approach that includes measures for installing a water supply system, starting with providing a source of water supply, ending with its discharge into the sewer system.

An autonomous water supply system can be presented in the form of two component subsystems:

water delivery: imported, groundwater, from an open source;

supply to points of consumption: gravity, using a pump, with the installation of a pumping station.

Therefore, in a generalized form, two water supply schemes can be distinguished: gravity (storage container with water) and automatic water supply.

Using a container (water tank)

The essence of the autonomous water supply scheme for a house is that water is supplied to the tank using a pump or poured manually.

Water flows to the user by gravity. After all the water in the tank has been used, it is filled again to the maximum possible level.

This method is supported by its simplicity; it is suitable if water is needed from time to time. For example, in a country house that is not visited often or in a utility room.

This water supply arrangement, despite its simplicity and low cost, is too primitive, inconvenient and, moreover, creates a significant weight on the interfloor (attic) floor. As a result, the system has not found widespread use and is more suitable as a temporary option.

Using an automatic water supply system

This diagram demonstrates the functioning of a fully autonomous water supply system for a private home. Water is supplied to the system and to the user using a system of components.

This is what we will talk about in more detail.

You can implement a completely autonomous water supply for a private home on your own by implementing one of the schemes. There are several device options to choose from:

1. Water from open sources

These can be surface sources: ponds, rivers, lakes. In some cases, such sources may be water purification systems. But in our country they are not yet widespread.

Important! Water from most open sources is not suitable for consumption. It can only be used for irrigation or other technical needs.

Obtaining water from an open source requires the creation of sanitary protection of water intake sites and is regulated by the provisions of SanPiN 2.1.4.027-9 “Zones of sanitary protection of water supply sources and drinking water pipelines.”

2. Water from underground sources: pools and aquifers

This water is, in most cases, suitable for consumption.

How to install water in a private house with your own hands

A step-by-step guide to choosing and installing water supply in a country cottage or country house from A to Z

The house water supply scheme consists of the following elements:

water source;
pipe system;
pump, hydraulic accumulator, automation relay;
filters;
fittings, valves, check valves and plumbing fixtures;
water heating equipment (for hot water supply);
sewerage

Element 1. Water source

When starting to ensure autonomous water supply, you should determine the source of water supply and equip it.

Among the subtypes of autonomous water supply with an underground source of water supply are:

1.1 ordinary well;

1.2 Abyssinian well;

1.3 well “for sand”;

1.4 artesian well.

The final choice will depend on the type and characteristics of the soil, the depth of water, and the productivity of the water vein.

1.1 Regular well

A traditional well is preferred when the water vein is located at a depth of 4-15 m. These are the so-called interstratal water sources. In addition to the depth of occurrence, it is important to determine the productivity of the vein. The incoming water must be sufficient to meet the needs of the family and/or household. Using a well, you can ensure a water supply of 500 liters/day.

The undoubted advantages of the well are:

independence from electricity supplies. This way, in the event of a power outage, water can be collected with a bucket;
long service life (up to 50 years), which has been tested in practice;
low cost of work;
simplicity of the device.

It should be noted that due to the shallow depth of water intake, it may be of poor quality. This is due to the likelihood of groundwater entering the well. The well is also characterized by changes in water level.

Important! When setting up a well, you need to position it correctly in terms of distance from above-ground buildings. It should not be located close to buildings, the optimal distance is 5 m (this will prevent erosion of the foundation of the building). In this case, the distance to direct sources of pollution (gutter, toilet, other sources) should be at least 50 m.

To dig a well you need to perform a number of steps:

take a water sample;

Important! Before installing a well on your property, try your neighbors’ water, or better yet, have it analyzed. It may happen that the water will be unfit for consumption and all efforts will be in vain.

obtain a conclusion about the quality of the soil and the depth of the aquifer. In practice, wells are often dug “by eye”;

determine the place to dig a well. To do this, you can involve specialists and use special devices - indicator frames. And you can watch the dew for several months. The greatest accumulation of dew in a certain place indicates the proximity of water;

choose a building material for finishing the walls of the well (shaft). The following materials are most often used for these purposes:

Reinforced concrete rings, which are manufactured in factories or cast independently. Their diameter is 1-1.5 m.p., and the estimated service life is up to 50 years. The obvious advantage of using rings is the possibility of deepening up to 20 m, high speed and greater safety of work. In addition, rings are installed as work progresses;

Small-piece materials: brick, rubble stone. This material is only suitable for wells with a depth of no more than 3-4 m. Its use significantly increases the labor intensity of the work;

Treated logs. For finishing shaft wells, logs made of wood that are resistant to exposure to high humidity are suitable. These include oak, larch, and pine. The diameter of the logs must be at least 120 mm.

dig a well shaft. To reduce the cost of work, this is usually done manually. You can determine the dimensions of the shaft in this way: measure the diameter of the concrete circles, measure their thickness and add 10-15 cm to the backfill. Then, with a circle diameter of 1 m and a thickness of 10 cm, the diameter of the shaft will be 1.4 m. If you plan to use another material, for example, brick, then it is enough to indicate the desired diameter of the well and add two thicknesses of material to it;

finish the well - internal and external.

1.2 Abyssinian well

Water supply to a country house from an Abyssinian well or needle well is the easiest way to get water at minimal cost. To do this, just follow a number of steps:

check the water;
choose a place for a well;
hammer a needle hole;
install a check valve and pump (manual or automatic).

The reason for the increased popularity of wells is the purity of the incoming water, tightness, ease of drilling, the ability to connect a pump, and a long service life (up to 30 years), a significant amount of incoming water - more than 1000 l/day. Among the disadvantages are the shallow driving depth and dependence on the composition of the soil.

1.3 Sand well

In this case, water also comes from interstratal sources. A sand well makes it possible to obtain cleaner water, since the aquifers are located after the loam, which filters the water.

Thus, the well is used if the depth of the aquifer reaches 40 m.p.

The well has a shorter service life (up to 10 years) and can produce up to 50 cubic meters. water per day. The well is distinguished by ease of drilling and less soil excavation.

A detailed description of how to make a well with graphical visualization is presented in the video

1.4 Artesian well

Allows the use of water from significant depths. The depth of the well reaches 150 m, which allows you to obtain high quality water. The unlimited supply of water is also an argument in favor of an artesian well. At the same time, the service life of the well increases compared to the previous option to 50 years.

The method of drilling an artesian well is identical to the previous one. The only difference is that a mechanical drilling method is used: auger, rotary, core or percussion-rope. The well design is shown in the diagram.

Important! By law, artesian water is a strategic reserve of the state. Therefore, there is a need to register an artesian well.

Element 2. Pipes for water supply

Water supply cannot be organized without installing an extensive system of pipes, both external and internal, and a water tank.

Galvanized, polyethylene, polypropylene or metal-plastic pipes are used for wiring.

Important! Using plastic pipes will prevent rust and leakage. They are also more convenient to give the desired shape. The estimated service life of a polypropylene pipe is 50 years.

External pipes are laid in the ground.

Important! The depth of pipe laying depends on the level of soil freezing (indicated in SNiPs; for central Russia the depth is about 1.5 m). The pipes are located below this value. In this case, the system is not in danger of freezing and, as a result, deformation.

Advice. To prevent water from stagnating in the pipe, it must be laid at an angle to the house.

Next, one end of the pipe is inserted into the house (for this, a hole is left in the foundation into which a steel pipe is placed. It will prevent deformation of the water supply pipe if the house shrinks). The second one is lowered into the well.

Element 3. Pump or pumping station for water supply

The pump can be installed in the house (basement or utility room)

Or it can be installed in a caisson or pit (directly above the well). The diagram shows the installation of a submersible pump and a surface pump in a caisson.

To get a caisson you need to dig a hole 2-3 m deep. Lay a sand-crushed stone cushion on the bottom and fill it with concrete. It is convenient to lay the walls with bricks. A pump is installed in the caisson, and the contour of the caisson is filled with concrete (layer about 0.4 m).

There are two types of pumps:

Submersible pumps. They plunge into water (well, borehole) and raise the water. For convenience, such pumps are equipped with automation, which allows you to pump water from your home.

Surface pumps. They are pumping stations equipped with a hydraulic accumulator and a relay.

The hydraulic accumulator performs the functions of a water tower.

Relay - regulates the pressure of the pumping station.

Operating principle of a surface pump

The principle of operation is as follows: the pump supplies water to the accumulator, which accumulates it. After the water is turned on in the house, the pressure in the system decreases. After reaching a critical level of 2.2 bar, the relay turns on, which in turn turns on the pump. The pump supplies water to the accumulator until the pressure is restored to 3 bar. After this, the relay turns off the pump.

You can select a pump based on the following data:

depth of water (bottom of a well or borehole);
height of water in the source shaft;
height of the water point;
volume of water consumed (m3).

The water intake pipe of the pump is lowered into the source. To avoid clogging of the pipe, filters are installed on its edge.

Important! The pipe is installed at a distance of 20-40 cm from the bottom (gravel cushion). The distance is determined by the height of the water at the source.

Advice. To prevent the pipe in a traditional well from moving, it must be secured to a special pin located at the bottom.

Element 4. Filters for the water supply system

Cleaning the water entering the pipe system is an important aspect of the water supply at home. Two types of filters are used for cleaning:

The first is installed on the edge of the pipe placed in the well. It purifies water from mechanical impurities;

The second is directly in the house and can be a complex multi-stage filter system. Water purification diagram in the figure.

Item 5. Fittings, valves and plumbing

These are the elements that are necessary for a hermetically sealed connection of pipes with each other and with other devices.

Important! To prevent system rupture and water leakage, try to use only high-quality shut-off valves.

Plumbing fixtures include: taps, waste tanks, water seals (siphons). You shouldn't skimp on their quality either.

Element 6. Water heating equipment

Will be needed if there is a need for hot water supply, i.e. almost always.

Important! To arrange hot water supply, it is necessary to provide a separate outlet to the heating device.

In this case, there are several options for choosing heating equipment:

double-circuit boiler. It will simultaneously heat water for heating and domestic needs;

single-circuit boiler. Designed exclusively for heating water for user needs. A boiler is required for such a boiler. In this case, the boiler can be storage or flow-through. In the first case, it becomes possible to heat a large volume of water;

electric storage water heater, allowing to satisfy the need for hot water of a significant number of users;

several instantaneous water heaters. They will heat water for each consumer individually. This system allows for more efficient use of electricity for heating water.

Element 7. Sewerage

Once the location for draining the used water has been determined, the process of arranging the water supply can be considered complete.

Water drainage is an essential component and the more water is consumed, the more it needs to be drained. This means we need to approach this stage responsibly. There are also two options here:

crash into the central sewer;

equip your own autonomous sewerage system. A septic tank or sedimentation tank is designed to collect water. Concrete and plastic septic tanks are shown in the photo. And their volume and quantity (total volume) depends on the amount of water consumed.

The video explains the rules for building a septic tank for a country house.

The water supply process from design to construction is shown in the video

Conclusion

As you can see, there are different water supply schemes for a private home, from simple to complex; accordingly, some will be cheaper, while others will be more expensive. Also, the cost of water supply is affected by the structural soundness, i.e. you will need a water supply device that operates periodically (temporarily) or year-round - in winter and summer. In any case, the implementation of each system is possible with your own hands, but requires knowledge and skills.