Technology for preserving a frame pool for the winter. Methods for preserving an outdoor stationary pool for the winter, how to properly prepare the pool for wintering, expert advice Weight for frame expansion joints for the pool for the winter


Conservation involves high-quality, reliable preservation of a product, mechanism, or structure during a period of inactivity. Outdoor swimming pools in a suburban area are among those structures that are not used during the autumn-spring season and must be mothballed.

All outdoor swimming pools, without exception, go into “hibernation”, but everyone’s preparation for it is different.

Inflatable summer pools

They are also different. Small (children's) swimming pools are made of rubber. Some of them are equipped with a bag for transportation and storage. Preparation for storage is simple. The pool is thoroughly washed in an inflated state, then the air is lowered and it is dried in a well-ventilated area under a canopy without direct sunlight. Then the air is removed from the pool cavity - it is rolled up. The rubber shell is lightly sprinkled with talcum powder and stored in a container bag or ventilated woven cover.
A large inflatable pool may have metal support elements, as well as a pump, ladder, and cartridge filter included. Pools with such a filter do not have a skimmer, so all kinds of contaminants are not constantly removed from the surface of the water, but gradually settle at the bottom. So the cleaning process begins with removing sediment from the bottom and walls of the pool. In this case, conservation work will increase. First, the filters are washed when the unit is operating in backwash mode, and then in compaction mode. After this, the filtering unit is switched to operating mode. The pool is then disassembled and moved indoors until next summer.

Prefabricated (frame) pools

Frost-resistant pools (by the way, they can be dug into the ground) are left assembled for the winter. The design of such pools, consisting of a frame, a cup bag made of PVC film, a filtration system based on a sand filter and a ladder, allows this to be done.
The problem only occurs with the cup bag. It is very thin (0.3–0.8 mm), lasts no more than 1–2 seasons and requires replacement. The sand filtration system consists (in addition to the filter) of a pump, a water intake device (skimmer), a set of hoses and fittings for piping. It is used for conservation, which is identical to the conservation of a stationary pool.

Stationary pools

As is known, the soils surrounding the walls of the pool exert a certain pressure on them, which increases at negative temperatures in winter. The water in the pool resists loads from the soil; for these purposes, it is left in the pool during the conservation period. But this is not the water in which we swam in the summer, but specially prepared. Therefore, conservation of the pool begins with the removal of chemicals from the dispenser tank (autochlorinator) of the disinfectant device. Then the entire system is flushed for 10–15 minutes in circulation mode. Only after this does the “summer” water begin to be drained and the walls of the pool are cleaned with detergents that are acceptable for the existing lining.
A small detail: do not apply acidic and alkaline preparations at the same time. Standard disinfection before conservation involves treating the pool with chlorine and active oxygen. Chlorine in granules dissolves faster and acts faster than chlorine in tablets. Chlorine has antimicrobial activity (bactericidal, virucidal, etc.). An algaecide is used to remove algae and organic matter. Both Russian and German-made drugs are used.
All cleaning chemicals are quite aggressive, and precautions when working with them are simply necessary. Rubber boots, gloves, a hat and a simple face mask are a “gentleman’s kit” for safely maintaining a pool. Then all existing lighting equipment and devices, and other “bells and whistles” are removed. The wires can be laid along the sides, insulated and secured.
Then the pool is filled with new water and it is prepared with the help of preparations: hth Powder pH minus and hth Powder pH plus, so that the pH level of the water is between 7.0 and 7.4. To compensate for the destructive effect on the walls of the pool from the inside from the formed ice, compensators are installed in its bowl.
These can be empty plastic bottles, rubber cylinders, in general, any pliable containers. It is best to place them in the central part of the pool and anchor them, and install foam plastic around the perimeter, with some indentation (about 8–10 cm), from the walls of the pool. It will be sufficient to place the foam half the length of the pool perimeter.

Advice

To clean the pool before conservation, you can use soap solutions, which must subsequently be thoroughly rinsed. Under no circumstances should you use hard brushes or abrasive detergents. The spa pool must not be kept at a temperature close to zero. In this case, the plastic becomes brittle and fragile. Freezing (i.e. storage outdoors or in a cold room) can cause irreparable damage to the spa complex. It is recommended to store the pool in its original packaging in a warm, dry place. If the pool is not properly maintained during the winter period, the warranty service may be terminated.

Olga Bogatyreva, VALERI-SPB company

Sometimes a special pool preservative is used, for example, puripul, which prevents the active growth of algae, the formation of silt, bacteria and fungi in the pool water. Helps soften limescale and dirt deposits. In addition, it makes spring cleaning of the pool easier. Puripul contains (less than 20%) quaternary ammonium compounds. Dosage is required when using it. So, with water hardness up to 3.5 mEq/l, about 0.4 liters of the drug will be required for every 10 m3 of pool water. With increased water hardness to 5.3 mEq/l, 0.6 liters of the drug will be required for every 10 m3 of water.
The drug is diluted in water (in a ratio of 1:5) and distributed evenly over the surface of the pool water with periodic stirring. The effectiveness of the drug decreases in the presence of chlorine (over 1 mg/l) and algaecide in the water. You need to remember this in the spring when re-opening and not increase the dose of algaecide.

Decorative ponds (waterfalls)

Such structures often have lighting, a pumping system for filling and draining, as well as floating plants, decorative fish, etc.
If there is a depression in the reservoir (winter hole), then the fish remain in the reservoir. You just need to provide conditions for their wintering. To do this, ventilation holes are drilled in the formed ice, through which part of the water is pumped out of the reservoir, as a result of which an air cushion is formed, and the fish will not suffocate.

Hydromassage mini-pools and spa pools

It’s hard to call it conservation. Specialists of the BALTEKO company say: “...our pools do not require maintenance..., you just need to drain the water and let the bowl dry.”
The spa pool is not susceptible to algae formation due to the continuous circulation of water in the bowl. The existing ozonation system reduces pool maintenance to a minimum. But care is still required. Firstly, it is cleaning the pool with special chemicals after each complete draining of water. Second, cleaning the outside of the pool before moving it into a heated indoor area.

Text: Nikolay Sharov
Consultants: "DEZHAYO-NEVA", "VALERI-SPB"
“Landowner of the North-West” No. 9 (68), 2011

List of necessary measures when preparing an outdoor swimming pool for winter storage.

1. Preserve the pool until the first serious frost.
2. Do not leave the outdoor pool empty during the winter.
3. Install volumetric expansion compensators in the pool before the water freezes. Objects are used as compensators that can compress when external pressure increases and take on the load from the ice formed in the pool.

The main rule is to have time to preserve the pool before the first serious frost.

An outdoor swimming pool should not be left empty during the winter.. The point is not only that the appearance of the bowl’s lining will be better preserved under the ice. The main danger is a change in the volume of the soil surrounding the pool when it freezes. Freezing and thawing soil in the immediate vicinity of the pool sharply increases the load on the walls, which can lead to the destruction of concrete and metal elements of the body. Therefore, the presence of frozen water inside the pool partially compensates for the mentioned loads.
The above does not mean that preservation is carried out without draining the water that you have used all summer. There is no point in freezing this water for the winter, even if it meets all the requirements for the basic indicators of water for swimming pools. This water must be completely drained.. Before refilling the water, the bottom and walls of the pool must be thoroughly cleaned. This is done in an empty pool using brushes and special cleaning products. It is recommended to use cleaning products in full accordance with the nature of the pool's interior coating.

This is especially true for film coatings. Cleaning agents for walls and bottom are usually quite aggressive chemicals, so the process must be carried out in compliance with safety regulations, and work in rubber boots and gloves. The tool used is a viscose sponge or a plastic brush with stiff bristles. After cleaning, the entire internal surface of the pools is thoroughly rinsed, and then the remaining water is removed manually. At the same time, metal parts in contact with water (backlight lamps, stairs, handrails, etc.) are cleaned of deposits.
While the pool is empty, the lighting fixtures built into the walls are dismantled. The protective glass is removed, the device is removed from the niche, the wire is brought up over the side of the pool and carefully insulated.
Conservation water is initially filled to the previous level.

When the filling is completed, measures to preserve the filter system begin. The pool filter switches to backwash mode. In this case, you must strictly follow the instructions for this process, since, for example, switching the filter valve while the pump is running can cause system breakdowns. After backwashing is completed, the filter is set to compaction mode. Then - into normal filtering mode.
At this time, a special preservative is added to the water, for example “Puripul” from BAYROL, which prevents the development of algae. It ensures clean water if expected frosts are delayed. Conservation water with an anti-algae agent dissolved in it is filtered in normal mode for two to three hours.
After this, part of the water from the pool is drained until the level drops 10 cm below the side nozzles.

Next step - installation of volumetric expansion compensators for freezing water. Objects that can compress when external pressure increases are used as compensators. These can be plastic canisters filled with air, slightly inflated car tires, or foam blocks. The expansion joints are sunk under the water of the pool using weights in the form of sandbags tied to the expansion joints. The best option is to sink plastic canisters in the central part of the pool and place foam plates about 5 cm thick along the sides of the pool at a distance of 5-10 cm from the side. The foam is distributed evenly, and its total length in plan should be at least half the perimeter of the pool. When tying loads, you should not use metal wire. Durable twine made of synthetic material works best.




After installing a system for compensating for the volumetric expansion of water in the piping of a stationary or frame pool, all parts of the hydraulic system are dismantled - a counterflow device, a filter unit, a heating system, etc. Parts of the hydraulic system that cannot be removed are freed from water, and the free ends of the pipes are isolated with plugs. Foam plugs are installed in niches of lighting fixtures, in the skimmer niche and in nozzles located above the conservation water level. The filter is disconnected from the hydraulic system. The water from the filter is drained, the sand is removed and transferred to another container or to a linen bag. The filter housing is cleaned of sand residues and put away for winter storage.

Last step - this is the closing of the water mirror. Special coatings that are used all year round are best suited for this purpose. In summer, they protect the pool from getting dirty and cooling down when the pool is not in use; in winter - serve as a last resort conservation measure. If the top covering is initially intended to be used in winter, it must be adequately durable and able to withstand the weight of the snowpack. It is not recommended to use wooden shields and metal structures resting on the sides of the pool to cover the water surface. The purpose of conservation, we recall, is to minimize the mechanical loads on the hull structure during long winter downtime. The ice in a freezing pool should be protected and should not be crushed under any circumstances, as ice fragments can damage the inner coating of the pool.

The pool is re-opened after the ice has completely melted on its own in the spring.

Instructions for preserving an outdoor pool for the winter

1. Pool conservation must be made before the first frost (up to 0 degrees).

Preservation of an outdoor pool for the winter(including filling it with water) is necessary for several reasons.

Firstly, if there is water in the pool, the surface of the bowl is better preserved, and secondly, the presence of an ice mass inside the pool compensates for external loads.

Since the main danger is a change in the volume of soil surrounding the pool when it freezes. The soil adjacent to the pool bowl from the outside during freezing and thawing increases the load on the walls of the pool, which can lead to the destruction of concrete and metal structural elements. The presence of ice in the pool bowl can, although partially, compensate for this.

2. The above does not mean that pool conservation produced without draining the water you've been using all summer. There is no point in freezing this water for the winter, even if it meets all the requirements for the basic indicators of water for swimming pools; it is advisable to drain this water completely. Before refilling the water, the bottom and walls of the pool must be thoroughly cleaned. After cleaning, the entire internal surface of the pools is thoroughly rinsed, and then the remaining water is removed manually.

In addition to the walls and bottom of the pool, metal parts that are in contact with water (spotlights, railings, stairs, etc.) must also be cleaned. While the pool is empty, the lighting devices built into the walls are dismantled. The protective glass is removed, the device is removed from the niche, the wire is brought up over the side of the pool and carefully insulated.

Conservation water is initially filled to the previous level.

When the filling is completed, measures to preserve the filter system begin.

3. Water filtration.

The filter is switched on in backwash mode. In this case, you must strictly follow the instructions for this process, since, for example, switching the filter valve while the pump is running can cause system breakdowns. After backwashing is completed, the filter is set to compaction mode. Then - into normal filtering mode.

At this time, a preservative (for example Purilul or Algitinn) is added to the water to prevent the development of algae. It ensures clean water if expected frosts are delayed. And be sure to add a water hardness stabilizer to prevent the formation of lime deposits on the pool bowl - CALCISTAB. Conservation water, with agents dissolved in it, is filtered in normal mode for 2-3 hours. After this, part of the water from the pool is drained until the level drops 10 cm below the side nozzles.

4. Installation of volumetric expansion compensators for freezing water.

Objects that can compress when external pressure increases and take on the load from ice formed in the pool are used as compensators; these can be plastic canisters or bottles filled with air; slightly inflated car tires or foam blocks. The best option is to sink plastic canisters in the central part of the pool and place foam plates about 5 cm thick along the sides of the pool at a distance of 5-10 cm from the side. The foam is distributed evenly, and its total length in plan should be at least half the perimeter of the pool. Usually, a “garland” of plastic bottles (at least 1.5 liters in volume) filled with sand (2/3 of the bottle) and tied together with a cord every 40-50 cm is installed along the sides around the perimeter of the pool and along its diagonal.

You can use factory-made compensation floats - this is a plastic hollow container with a weight at the bottom

5. After installing the system for compensating for the volumetric expansion of water in the pool piping, all parts of the hydraulic system are dismantled - a counterflow device, a filter unit, a heating system, etc. Parts of the hydraulic system that cannot be removed are freed from water, and the free ends of the pipes are isolated with plugs. Foam plugs are installed in our lighting fixtures, in the skimmer niche and in the nozzles located above the conservation water level. The filter is disconnected from the hydraulic system. The water is drained from the filter, the sand is removed into another container or into a linen bag. The filter housing is cleaned of sand residues and put away for winter storage.

6. The last step is to close the water mirror. The coating must have adequate strength and withstand the weight of the snow cover. It is practiced to cover the pool with a winter awning (the awning can be draped over logs placed along the length and/or width of the pool

7. When placing the pool equipment in a technical room, where in winter the air temperature may be below 0 C, it is necessary to dismantle the pump, electric heater, filter head and move them to a room with an air temperature above 0 C.

8. The pool is re-opened after the ice has completely melted on its own in the spring. You should not speed up this process and chop it - you can damage the inner lining of the pool.

PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES:

PROHIBITED!

  • Ready-made concreted polypropylene pool

leave without water

  • Use as ice expansion compensators

metal objects

  • Perform forced ice crushing
  • Use detergents to clean the surface of the bowl

facilities,containing abrasives

  • Do not allow heavy, hard or sharp objects to fall into the bowl.

items

A swimming pool is an expensive pleasure. Every owner of such luxury wants it to serve him faithfully for many years. To do this, you need to organize proper care for it throughout the year. Winter is a time of serious testing for the home water area. Proper conservation will allow the pool to survive the cold without loss.

If the owners use the pool for its intended purpose in winter, then the issue of conservation will not have to be addressed. In this case, you just need to keep all its systems in working order: heating, round-the-clock circulation and water filtration are provided.

There is no need to preserve the prefabricated structure. She disassembles and overwinters in a warm room. Frost-resistant models can be left on the site. It is these types of pools, as well as stationary (polypropylene, acrylic, concrete, fiberglass) models buried in the ground, that require a set of measures to help them survive the winter safely.

Preparing for conservation

Before conservation, it is necessary to clean the bowl, walls and thoroughly disinfect the water. The most important nuance of disinfection is adjusting the pH level of the water. Its transparency, the presence of deposits on the walls and comfort for the skin during bathing depend on it. The optimal pH is considered to be in the range of 7.0-7.4 units. This indicator is determined using testers. If the acid-base balance is higher or lower than normal, the problem is solved with the help of pH regulators.

The next stage of conservation will be water disinfection using agents that destroy viruses, bacteria and fungi, as well as shock chlorination. Grease and dust entering the pool from the outside combine with dead bacteria, resulting in the formation of suspensions, the particle sizes of which are so small that they are not captured by filters. With the help of special preparations, suspensions are converted into large insoluble flakes (coagulation occurs). Once they have settled to the bottom, they can be removed from the pool. To remove small amounts of debris (leaves, grains of sand, etc.), either hydrovacuum cleaners or aqua robots are used.

To clean a pool from heavy contamination, more effective methods are needed. First, the water is drained into the sewer, and then, using a plastic brush with stiff bristles or a viscose sponge, the walls and bottom are manually cleaned with special detergents. Before processing, it is recommended to wear rubber shoes on your feet and protect your hands with gloves, since such chemicals are very aggressive. Cleaners are alkaline based - they are used to remove grease stains. Products based on mineral acids are designed to remove dirt that is formed as a result of deposits of iron and calcium salts, as well as limescale.

The choice of cleaning agents used depends primarily on the type of pool lining material (tiles and PVC film). However, there are also universal remedies. If the bowl is covered with tiles, it is necessary to additionally disinfect and clean the joints between the tiles with a stiff brush. This will help prevent them from becoming overgrown with algae. In addition, metal handrails and stair steps need descaling. If they are removable, you can dismantle them and put them away for winter storage. After cleaning is completed, you should rinse the bowl and remove any remaining water using brushes.

When the pool is empty, it becomes possible to dismantle the built-in lighting fixtures. The protective glass of the spotlight is removed, and in order to prevent the body of the device from being deformed in the cold from ice pressure, foam plastic is inserted into it. The cable must be brought up, secured and insulated.

Pool conservation

After the general cleaning is completed, you can proceed to the conservation itself. The first stage is cleaning the filter. To do this, you need to turn on the “backwash” mode and wait 3-4 minutes. As soon as the water in the special cap, which is located on the valve body, becomes transparent, the filter is switched to sealing mode (the circulation pump is turned off). Water passing through it compacts the sand, completing the flushing of the system. The pump is turned off after 10-15 seconds, and the system is switched to filtration mode.

Preservatives must be distributed evenly over the surface of the water manually. They prevent the growth of microorganisms and algae and stabilize water hardness. The filter system is then turned on for approximately 2-3 hours.

Next, you need to drain the water, setting it at a level of 10 cm below the edge of the side nozzles. It is important to know that all types of pools must be winterized with water. It is this that is able to compensate for the pressure of freezing soil on the walls of the bowl, thereby saving it from destruction. In addition, during the spring rise of groundwater, it will prevent the structure from “floating up”.

Along the perimeter of the pool it is necessary to immerse expansion joints for freezing water. For this, sand-filled floats can be used, which are connected to each other with loops and hooks. Available materials such as empty plastic canisters loaded with sand, foam blocks, and car inner tubes are also suitable for this purpose. Each of these items has a small weight attached to it. The use of wire is not recommended, as it leaves a trace of rust on the walls. Synthetic twine is best suited for these purposes.

Equipment dismantling

The attachments in the pool are removed, cleaned and taken away for storage. Built-in equipment must be dismantled. First of all, this applies to the filter. It must be disconnected from the power supply; drain the water using the tap located at the bottom of the housing. Even if the filter is installed in the basement, it is necessary to drain the water, because if it does not freeze, it will acquire an unpleasant odor by spring.

The top cover of the filter is removed, the sand is poured out and washed, then it will be ready for loading by the next season. The filter should be cleaned of sand, and then the water from the pump pump should be completely drained.

Pipes must also remain dry during winter. To do this, they not only remove water, but also close the ends of the nozzles and pipes with foam plastic or rubber plugs, and the skimmer with a tube. This prevents precipitation from getting into them.

Pool cover

The last stage of preparing the pool for wintering is covering. It ensures the safety of pets and children. The pool cover must be aesthetically pleasing and durable enough to withstand snow conditions. For the coating, it doesn’t matter whether it allows moisture to pass through or not. It is enough that the dirt remains on the surface of the protective “blanket”. Automatic blinds made of PVC profiles, tarpaulin panels secured with screws, or coverings that are metal frames covered with awning fabric are suitable for covering the home water area.

A more reliable, effective and therefore more expensive solution for a pool cover would be to install it above it. polycarbonate pavilion. Such a pavilion can have different heights and shapes, be with doors or sliding. As necessary, you will need to remove snow from its surface.

Another type of coating is “Solar Elevator”. This is one of the latest developments on the market. It is a transparent polycarbonate roof mounted on posts located at the corners of the pool. The roof can move up and down.

Pool conservation is a fairly simple procedure, so if desired, the owner can do it himself. Preservatives and chemicals will cost approximately $7-17. If you don’t want to do everything yourself, you can hire specialists. Payment for their services will depend on the size of the pool and the volume of the robot, and starts from $150 (not including the cost of drugs). In any case, the whole process will take no more than one day.

There are no specific dates for the start of conservation. Everything here depends on weather conditions. Follow the forecasts - if weather forecasters promise a temperature of 10-15°C or lower, then you need to start conservation. If forecasts promise a warm autumn, there is no need to rush. At high temperatures, algae actively multiply in the pool, and even preservatives added to the water will not help prevent this.

The same recommendations are also relevant in the spring, when the time comes to re-open the pool. If you put it into operation without waiting for stable heat, spring frosts can lead to destruction of the bowl lining. By following all the rules of conservation, you will keep your pool intact, and then your new swimming season will begin on time and without surprises.


The end of the swimming season for many owners of an open frame pool promises worries about preparing the bowl for the cold period. Should a frame pool be removed for the winter? It is impossible to give a definite answer to this question.

It will not be possible to use a frame pool in winter, so you have two options: completely dismantle the structure, drain the water, wash and dry all components and install it again in the spring, or mothball the tank for the winter. Today we will analyze this moment in detail!

Is it possible to leave an artificial pond for the winter?

Reservoir in the cold season

So, let's figure out whether it is possible to leave a frame pool outside in winter. Manufacturers and experienced owners of artificial reservoirs claim that this is permissible under the necessary conditions. In order not to have to worry about assembling and disassembling the product once again, it is worth trying another way to protect the structure during the cold season - preserving the tank without performing dismantling work.

Conservation is carried out taking into account a number of requirements:

  • It is necessary to add special preservatives to the water filling the bowl or carry out shock chlorination;
  • Expansion compensators will need to be located inside the structure;
  • It is important to complete all conservation work before the first temperature drop below zero;
  • All important parts and components of the hydraulic system should be dismantled;
  • To leave a frame pool for the winter, you will need to remove liquid from all parts of the non-removable type;
  • If ice has formed in the tank, attempting to break the ice cover is prohibited, as this may damage the entire structure. It is best to achieve natural melting;
  • To prevent the frame pool from being damaged in winter, it is necessary to take into account the type of artificial reservoir during the conservation process. Preservation can only be applied to frost-resistant all-season models. For summer models, this option is not provided and they must be dismantled.

In case of dismantling, you should not leave the components at the dacha, since low temperatures can cause significant damage to important components of the hydraulic system.

Requirements for swimming pools in winter

An important question that concerns many structure owners is how to store a frame pool in winter. It all depends on the type of product. Modern manufacturers offer potential buyers two types of designs:
  • Seasonal;
  • Frost-resistant.

The first option involves the use of an artificial reservoir in the summer. Before the onset of the first cold weather, this structure must be dismantled and individual parts of the tank must be stored in a special way. The second model eliminates the dismantling of the structure even in cold weather and allows the product to remain assembled throughout all seasons.

Let's consider each option separately and determine how to store a frame pool in winter, if it is seasonal or frost-resistant.

Rules for dismantling and storing seasonal frame-type models

It is important to begin dismantling seasonal structures by draining the water.

Draining the water can be done in parallel with mechanical cleaning of the inner surface of the walls.

Cleaning is a must because all parts of the seasonal model must be kept clean. The most important point is to rid the metal coatings of the tank from limescale.

To clean limescale deposits, it is best to use a non-metallic brush to avoid damaging the inside of the bowl.

It is not difficult to disassemble the frame tank, however, to avoid the loss of various small elements, it is worth placing all parts of the product in separate containers. It is important to dry the pool very well and fold it neatly. It is necessary to take into account the storage conditions of structural parts. If there is no heating in the room, then the material should be folded as tightly as possible so that the low temperature does not damage the fragile plastic.

Preservation rules for frost-resistant models

A frost-resistant frame pool can remain assembled during frosts. If you are the owner of such a model, then you must use the special instructions that come with the kit.

To preserve your pool and protect it from equipment damage, you must follow the following recommendations and tips:

  • All work to preserve the tank must be completed before the temperature drops to zero degrees for the first time;
  • Do not leave the structure without water;
  • The next fill of water is carried out using a special technique and after high-quality cleaning of the walls of the tank, as well as removal of the necessary equipment;
  • Compositions used to clean the pool should be used in compliance with all safety measures, since they are aggressive to the human body;
  • It is important to carefully and correctly dismantle important components inside the bowl to prevent damage to the hydraulic system.

After following all the recommendations, you must wait until the end of filtration, which will take at least three hours. Next, you will need to drain the water to a mark that is 10 cm below the side nozzles.

At the final stage of conservation, it is important to place expansion joints. To do this, you can use various items, for example, car tires, polystyrene foam, old plastic cans. These items are immersed in water using sandbags or other weights.

The last thing that needs to be done is to install an awning over the pool, which will provide additional protection for the pool in winter.

Thematic video

To protect the frame pool from possible damage in cold weather, owners should take care to dismantle or preserve the bowl. The basis for this or that choice will be the design of the pool. Seasonal pools must be dismantled, but frost-resistant ones can easily be preserved.

Is it worth removing the frame structure or leaving the pool outside in winter? We are sure that now you definitely know the answer to this question.