Unusual tree grafting. Grafting of fruit trees and bushes

In the process of grafting different crops, gardeners have to solve complex problems using non-standard technologies.

Instead of varnish - sealant

I do not graft simultaneously with pruning, in one day, but over the course of one to two months, in stages.

First stage of vaccination fruit tree begins to mature in early spring, when there is no need to fear frosts below 10°C. At this time I begin pruning for future grafting. I cut it so that the cutting area is minimal; often the cut is parallel to the ground. Then I sweep away the sawdust and paint the cut with white PF-115 paint. Since the wood absorbs paint, after 2-3 days I paint the cut again.

To the second stage of vaccination I start when sap flow begins, and sometimes a little earlier. This is the grafting into the cleft itself (in the literature it is called “grafting into the peripheral half-split”), although I perform it with some of my innovations.

My split never goes through the center of the rootstock. I'll explain why. The split should gently grasp, and not squeeze, and especially not pinch the handle. With a soft grip, the cutting can be pulled out of the split with little effort without tearing its bark. Therefore, my split runs no more than 10 mm from the edge of the cut. After this, I insert the cutting at an angle of 5–100 from the axis of the branch and cover the split on all sides, top and bottom. I do without garden varnish; I give preference to “Universal Sealant” produced by Altair CJSC (Kopeysk, Chelyabinsk region). Actually, as you can see from the manufacturer's instructions, this sealant is window putty. Unlike garden varnish, it does not flow in the sun and does not harden, but it compacts the grafting site perfectly. I apply a drop of PF-115 paint to the upper end of the cutting.

The cuttings begin to vegetate after 1.5 weeks. At the same time, below the grafting site, tops begin to grow from dormant buds. Do not remove them under any circumstances, as the tops help draw nutrients to the cutting. Once, following one of the recommendations, I removed the tops, and the cuttings that had begun to vegetate dried up. But you can’t let the tops grow freely either.

What to do? You need to break the top at the base so that it hangs “by a thread” without drying out. The tops can be completely removed next year. The number of successful (accepted) vaccinations when using this method reaches 90 out of 100.

Grafting only with cuttings with apex

Previously, I had tried more than once to graft cherries with summer budding, but soon gave up: in recent years, the summer has been hot, the survival rate of the bud is poor, and there are a lot of other worries at this time.

I believe that spring grafting with cuttings is a universal technology for all types of fruits, including stone fruits. I even grafted gooseberries and created standard forms. I graft cherries, sweet cherries and all other crops in April using the improved copulation method.

The dream of every amateur gardener is to plant and grow dwarf apple and pear trees in their garden.
Dwarf trees, compared to vigorous ones, have a number of significant advantages: smaller tree size, placement of more trees in the same area, earlier onset of fruiting, higher yield per unit area, larger fruit size and better quality, smaller root system , which makes it possible to grow such trees in low, swampy areas with high groundwater levels. However, growing dwarf fruit trees poses significant difficulties. First, you must have dwarf clonal rootstocks obtained by rooting layerings or woody and green cuttings, which takes at least two years. It can also be grafted onto dwarf inserts, 15-20 cm long, previously grafted onto ordinary seed rootstocks, which also takes at least two years. Secondly, dwarf rootstocks and inserts have very fragile wood, and very often, after strong winds, trees grafted onto them break even in the nursery, which requires them to be tied to stakes. In addition, the winter hardiness of the wood and roots of existing clonal rootstocks is not very high.
Is it possible to somehow get a dwarf tree from a young vigorous fruit tree? It turns out that it is possible. I first read about this in 1963 in the then just published book “Reproduction of Garden Plants” by American authors H.T. Hartman and D.E. Koestler. By the way, I consider this book to be the best of the books published to date on this topic. In the spring of 1964, I had already started an experiment on this transformation of 6 vigorous grafted trees (4 two-year-olds and 2 three-year-olds) and continued it until 1972.
What is the essence of such a transformation? At a height of 20-25 cm from the soil surface, a strictly horizontal circular cut of the bark is made on the tree trunk, and here, but already 10-15 cm above the first cut, a parallel, similar cut of the bark is made. To better maintain horizontality, a cardboard template can be used, which is wound onto the tree trunk before cutting the bark. A vertical cut is made from the upper annular cut to the lower one, thereby violating the integrity of the bark ring (Fig. 1). You should mark the top and bottom of the ring with a ballpoint pen, felt-tip pen or other writing object. Then carefully use a grafting knife to separate the bark from the wood along the entire perimeter of the ring, remove it and, turning it upside down, insert it in its original place. The ring should fit snugly against the wood. To do this, it is tightly tied with twine, and the wounds are covered with varnish or wrapped “tightly” with strips of rubber (in this case, varnish may not be used). To reduce transpiration, it is advisable to also wrap the wound with strips of plastic film. You can also use the following strapping technology. Initially, secure the ring with small small nails, and then, since when wrapping the bark ring with twine or rubber, the bark is partially injured, it is advisable to first wrap the bark ring with strips of plastic film and only then wrap it with twine or rubber over it. The film and tourniquet are applied so that they grip both the upper and lower ends of the ring well. This operation is best done in early spring at the beginning of sap flow at the time of swelling of the buds. The operation is not so complicated and can be easily carried out by any amateur gardener with basic grafting skills.
As a result of such grafting, due to a change in the normal polarity of the bark ring, difficulty is observed in the transport of growth substances - auxin and photosynthesis products to the root, which leads to the effect of dwarfing the tree (Fig. 2). At the same time, the size of the crown and root is significantly reduced, the onset of fruiting is accelerated, the fruits become larger and the yield increases (Fig. 3). But this eliminates the low winter hardiness and fragility inherent in clonal rootstocks.
However, such an operation can be fraught with some troubles. So, with a wide ring, the dwarfing effect can be so strong that the root will simply starve and will not be able to feed the crown. Usually, wild shoots grow below the grafting site on the trunk, which are not affected by the ring. These shoots also feed the roots with the products of photosynthesis. By regulating the number and size of these shoots, normal nutrition of the roots and normal growth of the crown can be achieved. In the case of a narrow ring, it sometimes happens (usually after 2-3 years) that the normal conductivity of the pathways is restored in the phloem of the bark of this ring, and the tree begins to grow strongly again.
When setting up my experiment, I used rings with a width of 10, 15 and 20 cm, using two trees for each ring. Indeed, already in the first year, by the end of the growing season, there was a sharp decrease in the growth of all shoots and the formation of fruit buds. On trees with a wide ring of bark, shoot growth was minimal. In the second year after the operation, all the experimental trees began to bear fruit; the size of the fruits on them was indeed somewhat larger. Starting from the first year, growth of wild shoots was observed on all trees below the grafting site, and influxes of varying sizes were observed above. By the fifth year, one tree with a bark ring 10 cm wide and by the seventh year another tree with the same ring width began to produce large growths, characteristic of vigorous trees, i.e. lost the property of dwarfism. One tree with a bark ring of 20 cm for two years had a depressed state and a very large influx above the grafting site, its growth was minimal, and fruiting was very poor. There was clearly severe starvation of the root of this tree. After a significant number of shoots grew below the grafting site in this tree, most of them were left to feed the root. As a result, the tree straightened out and began to grow and bear fruit normally, like other experienced trees. Until the end of the experiment in 1972, all trees that showed dwarfism, with a reasonable number of wild shoots, grew well and bore fruit. In 1972, during the uprooting of the garden, two such trees were dug up to study the root system. It turned out that the size of the root system actually decreased compared to that for vigorous trees.
For trees that have again shown strong growth, a second operation can be performed, but not on the trunk, but on the skeletal branches of the crown. In addition, to prevent such a return to vigorous growth, it is advisable to work with a ring 20-25 cm wide.

There are gardeners who are convinced that grafting pears onto shadberry will not work. It grafts well and begins to bear fruit at 3-4 years. Good supports are needed not only because it can break at the grafting site, but because the harvest is such, you have to strengthen each branch. Otherwise, it will break off under the weight of the fruit. At the bottom is a shadberry and at the top is a pear. What vaccinations do you know that are considered unusual and incompatible?

One enchanted Siberian gardener wrote that he does not believe in grafting a pear onto chokeberry (chokeberry). Send at least one photo, he writes. I am sending. The branch with chokeberry fruits is circled in red.

Pear on the serviceberry, though still in the spring.

And an apple tree in the serviceberry.

Many people consider this grafting - apricot onto sloe - to be unusual and incompatible. And in the book “Apricot in Moscow and the Moscow Region” it is directly written that apricot cannot be grafted onto sloe. Apparently they have never tried it - why write then? This apricot grafted onto a sloe began to bear fruit in the second year.

Pear on quince.

We give real examples of unusual grafting of garden crops that give one or another effect and which the gardener himself can do (table).

Unusual grafting of fruit and berry crops

Culture (scion)	Rootstock	Achieved effect
	Hawthorn, Japanese quince	Precociousness, reduction in tree height
	Red rowan	Increasing winter hardiness
	Irga, chokeberry	Early fruiting, ability to bend branches and protect from frost
	Cerapadus	Increased winter hardiness, reduced gum development
	Felt cherry	Reducing tree height
		Growing on “dry” soils
		Growing in “wet” soils
	Plum, felt cherry	Increasing winter hardiness
	Plum, sloe
Plum, peach	Felt cherry
Japonica	Red rowan, hawthorn
Grape	Actinidia	Protection of the root system from frost
	Black currant
Chokeberry, Japanese quince	Red rowan	Based on such trees obtained by the methods described, the gardener can create a garden with 4 “story” components. The first floor is a vigorous seed rootstock, the second floor is an intermediate insert of a clonal low-growing variety, the third floor is a skeleton-forming plant from a winter-hardy variety, and the fourth floor is a crown from shoots of a cultivated variety. Moreover, the last “floor” can be represented not by one variety, but by several (according to the timing of fruit ripening). Thus, the advantages of such trees in the garden are winter hardiness of the root system and crown, early fruiting and short stature. "Four-story" tree However, the use of low-growing rootstocks and inserts does not always ensure the desired growth rate of the fruit tree. Ideally, it is desirable that the tree grows quickly at the beginning and its volume occupies the allotted nutritional area (planting scheme), and then the vegetative and generative development of the plants should be balanced. Unusual advice. To obtain such trees, V.I. Demenko has developed a method for creating plants with an insert that begins to work 3-4 years after planting. To do this, a seedling on a seed rootstock is grafted on both sides using the “bridge” method with cuttings of a weak-growing rootstock (insert), after 2-3 years the bark is removed from the trunk, due to which the waste products of the tree are directed through the inserts, undergoing changes and affecting growth and fruiting fruit tree. The effect of dwarfism or reduced growth vigor can be achieved not by grafting various crops, but by performing the “inverted ring” operation. For example, on a pear and plum, during active sap flow, you need to remove a ring of bark 13-15 mm wide from the branch and immediately put it in its original place, but upside down. That is, thanks to such an operation, communication in the vessels of the cortex is disrupted and the outflow of nutrients is delayed. Therefore, fruiting on a ringed branch increases, and progressive growth in height decreases. Unfortunately, the effect of such an operation is short-lived and therefore it must be repeated after 3-4 years. Another surgical gardening operation can be performed to increase the winter hardiness of cherries. To do this, a 1 cm wide strip of bark is also removed from the branches and a strip of winter-hardy cherry bark of the same size is placed in its place. Obtaining a low-growing tree on a vigorous rootstock

It is not at all difficult to master the vaccine. And when the grafts grow together more often than they disappear, then you can create an unusual garden with the most risky combinations. Just keep in mind that some varieties cannot be vaccinated; there are also stubborn varieties among the flexible varieties. So you need to do several vaccinations with different combinations of varieties or crops to increase the likelihood of success.

Tree with different varieties

If the garden is small, but you want to try different varieties. Then graft a whole garden on one tree. This can best be done with an apple tree. You can collect varieties of different colors on one tree, as well as varieties of different ripening periods. Then you can enjoy the harvest throughout the season.

Such grafting is done only on young trees, grafting skeletal branches closer to the trunk. In this case, there is less risk of accidentally removing them during pruning.

You can surprise your acquaintances and friends if you graft a pear onto an apple tree. But doing the opposite is much more difficult: an apple tree does not take root well on a pear tree. You can get an unusual and winter-hardy tree if you graft several varieties of pear into the crown of an ordinary rowan - both beautiful and very useful.

Not all varieties take root on mountain ash. The most suitable pears for these purposes are Cathedral, Lada, Martovskaya, Moskvichka, Pamyati Yakovlev, Chizhovskaya...

Unusual grafting of garden trees

Many enthusiasts graft pear onto hawthorn, serviceberry and chokeberry. Grafting is often successful and the pears turn out to be very large and tasty. But we must be aware that such combinations only last up to eight years. You can get out of this situation if you plant two or three new cuttings every year, then such bushes will bear fruit without interruption.

Such combinations are especially good because then the pear can be grown in areas with close groundwater, where ordinary pears simply do not grow. In the spring, vaccinations can be done in any way, and in the summer - only by eye.

Berry bushes on a trunk

A fashionable trend in grafting is the creation of standard forms of chokeberries, gooseberries and currants. Such small trees bear fruit well and look very decorative.

Gooseberries and currants are grafted onto a two to three year old golden currant seedling. If you have difficulties with vaccinations, you can buy a ready-made seedling from a nursery. This exotic plant is short-lived and bears fruit for five to seven years. So you need to be prepared to replace exotics with new vaccinations.

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Pear seedling (seed rootstock)

The choice of rootstocks for pear trees is much smaller than for apple trees. After lengthy selection, the seed rootstock of the Kirchensaller Mostbierne variety has proven itself well. It has good winter hardiness and strong growth. Pears (Sorbus) and hawthorn (Crataegus) are also available, but these combinations have not gained popularity.

Vegetatively propagated pear rootstocks

But the Golden Pear variety with small fruits that taste like marzipan is on the verge of extinction.

Cultivated forms of medlar with large fruits (for example, German medlar Mespilus germanica) are grafted onto hawthorn; such seedlings are covered with thorns and produce only small fruits. Vaccinations for quince, pear and rowan are also possible.

Varieties of German medlar (Mespilus germanica) with large fruits are often grafted onto monogyne hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna).

You can grow wonderful standard forms on mountain ash.

Rootstocks for cherries

Bird cherry

As before, sweet cherry seedling (Prunus avium) remains the most common rootstock for both sweet cherries and cherries. Until now, the rootstocks mainly used were Limburger Cherry and Pure Hüttner, bred from the True Light Bark Harz Birdcherry variety. You can also purchase virus-free Altenweddinger seed rootstock.

Grafting of cultivated cherry varieties is generally done using the appropriate grafting method at the height of any desired branching, since the grafted cherry varieties themselves are often less frost-resistant and more prone to gum development. Therefore, we do not recommend grafting cherries onto the root collar.

Antipka, or Magalebka

The rootstock variety Antipka, or Magalebka (Prunus mahaleb), is suitable for dry, sandy soils for both cherries and cherries, but is weaker than Bird Cherry (Prunus avium). When grafting different varieties of cherries, some incompatibility often occurs.

Vegetative rootstocks for cherries

Maxma Delbard 14

A slightly lower-growing, well-proven cherry rootstock from micropropagated crops (i.e. propagated in vitro). It arose by crossing Magalebka and Sweet Cherry (Prunus mazzard). If possible, it is better not to prune scions on such a rootstock in the first three years.

A somewhat weaker, vegetatively propagated rootstock derived from Bird Cherry (Prunus avium), and Colt. Virus-free Colt rootstock was developed at East Malling Research Station (England) by crossing Bird Cherry (Prunus avium) with Chinese Cherry (Prunus pseudocerasus). It grows much weaker.

Cherries grown on trellises produce especially abundant harvests, as they receive very good lighting and optimal care from all sides.

Bird cherry, and in combination with both cherries and cherries, it shows full compatibility. Thus, Colt rootstock has become one of the most popular cherry rootstocks. Sometimes there is a tendency of young trees to form aerial roots.

Gisela rootstocks

As a result of the program for breeding rootstocks for cherries at the University of Giessen, as a result of crossing the varieties Morel shady (Prunus cerasus) and Sweet cherries (Prunus canescens), the best clonal rootstocks appeared - Gisela 3, Gisela 5 and Gisela 6 (growth vigor increases with increasing ordinal rootstock numbers). These rootstocks were healthy rhizomes with pronounced weak growth. Cherries grafted onto these rootstocks grew from 1.8 to a maximum of 2.5 m.

The plum variety Friar (also Monk) produces very large fruits of an unusual flat shape. It is also grafted onto a vigorous rootstock.

These rootstocks are propagated by a new method of meristem propagation, in which the plant is grown in a test tube from the meristem tissues of the plant (in this case, by the way, the clone is freed from viruses).

Other cherry rootstocks

Meanwhile, many other cherry rootstocks were developed. Weaker clonal rootstocks came from the German town of Weihenstephan (Beirut) and from France (Tabel, Yaspi, Julior, Torinel).

Although almond cultivation has no particular agricultural significance, it is still successfully cultivated in areas with a suitable climate. Basically we mean sweet almonds.

Almond seedling (seed rootstock). Vigorous, suitable for warm and very dry places.

SR677

A hybrid rootstock obtained by crossing almond and peach promotes strong scion growth and is suitable for good, permeable soil.

Ishtar. Medium-vigorous rootstock, promotes a good large-fruited harvest, does not form wild growth.

Peach and nectarine. Winter-hardy almond trees can also be planted in more northern regions.

Peach seedling (seed rootstock)

Peach seedlings are grown from the Gigama and red-leaved Rubira varieties for the subsequent formation of vigorous plants. In eastern Germany, the Proskauer variety is also used as a rootstock.

Brompton plum. Vigorous plum rootstock, also excellent for grafting into the crown.

Prickly plum, or thorn. The sloe produces a pronounced dwarf growth; sometimes it needs support on a stake. However, life expectancy is significantly limited. Basically, only amateur gardeners graft peach and nectarine onto sloe.

Apricot

Apricot seedling (seed rootstock)

Seed rootstocks of the Millionaire variety produce vigorous trees and are recommended for dry soil.

If you grow apricot in a spacious tub in a suitable place, then even in northern latitudes you can count on an annual harvest.

Cherry plum, or myrobalan (Prunus cerasifera)

Myrobalan is a vigorous, healthy rootstock, the formation of stolons is possible.

Torinel. Medium-vigorous apricot rootstock with early fruit set. Also suitable for impermeable soils.

Currants and gooseberries

Currants and gooseberries in bush form are grown from cuttings. Low-standard or high-standard forms, as well as the Heinemanns Spätlese variety, are propagated by grafting. If the varieties form strong, erect, zero shoots growing from the roots, then they can be cut off and grafted with cuttings at the desired height.

Golden currant (Ribes aureum)

Golden currant is the most important rootstock, and several different breedings are known.

Oregon gooseberry (Ribes divaricatum)

The rootstock is well suited for areas with heavy rainfall and for deep places, since golden currants in such conditions have a tendency to edema (dropsy).

Common gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa)

Along with Oregon gooseberry and golden currant, it is also good for grafting cultivated gooseberry varieties. Moreover, some hybrids of currants and gooseberries, such as Yoshta, are also excellent as rootstocks, due to their strong growth and smooth straight trunk.

Currants grafted onto a standard can be grown anywhere in the garden, as they do not take up much space.

Walnut

Real walnut (Juglans regia). A strong walnut as a rootstock promotes strong growth, but rather late entry into fruiting.

Black walnut (Juglans nigra). Black walnut as a rootstock does not produce such strong growth and makes the walnut bear fruit earlier.

Common hazel

Common hazel (Corylus avellana). This type of rootstock is primarily used for propagating corkscrew hazel (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta).

Rootstocks for citrus fruits

By plants in tubs we mean those plants that, in the climatic conditions of Central Europe, usually do not have winter-hardy properties, and if they do, then only taking into account certain precautions. Therefore, most of them require appropriate wintering quarters during the cold season.

Planting seeds from a wide variety of citrus fruits sold in stores is very popular, since the seeds in most cases germinate, and in favorable places - on a south-east or south-west window or ideally in a greenhouse, and in the summer in the fresh air - from them corresponding green plants with strange leaves and flowers grow. However, those who expect to get a flowering and fruiting citrus plant in just a few years will in most cases be disappointed, because seedlings of most citrus species bloom after many years.

Poncirus trifolia is not only an excellent rootstock for citrus fruits. This is our only winter-hardy citrus plant with attractive flowers and a bountiful harvest of apple-like fruits in the fall.

And since almost all citrus fruits sold in stores are hybrids or selected varieties, propagation of varieties by generative, that is, sexual, means is in principle impossible.

Citrus cultivars are grown by grafting onto suitable, for example, low-growing rootstocks such as Poncirus trifoliata and its variety Flying Dragon (var. monstrosa).

Three-leaved poncirus (Poncirus trifoliata)

Poncirus trifolia is the most important rootstock for citrus fruits grown in tubs. It is low-growing and especially cold-resistant. But this does not mean that the varieties grafted onto the three-leaved poncirus will become cold-resistant and can be grown in open ground. Incompatibility may occur with some varieties of grapefruit and pampelmousse.

Poncirus trifolia is our only winter-hardy citrus species. When grown in a tub, it also has a very attractive appearance.

Poncirus trifoliata var. monstrosa ‘Flying Dragon’

This rootstock grows even weaker than the previous one. In combination with cuttings from low-growing cultivars, such as Hong Kong or mini kumquat (Fortunella hindsii), or Chinese bush orange (Severinia bwdfolia), bonsai can be grown. The twisted trunks and downward thorns look especially attractive on this rootstock.

Citrange (Poncirus trifoliata x Citrus sinensis)

Citrange varieties (a hybrid of Poncirus trifoliata and Citrus sinensis orange) such as Carrizo and Troyer, due to their strength, tolerance and disease resistance, are often used as medium-vigorous rootstocks in citrus-growing countries.

Citromelo (Poncirus trifoliata x Citrus paradisi)

Citromelo (a hybrid of Poncirus trifoliata and Citrus paradisi) is a healthy, highly compatible rootstock. If they want to achieve stronger and faster growth, then they often use citromelo.

Selection US119 (Citromelo x Citrus sinensis)

Vigorous, insensitive to cold, very prickly hybrid of citromel and orange Citrus sinensis. Also suitable as an intermediate insert for grafting.

Orange (Citrus aurantium)

Orange, or bitter orange, often grows simply on the streets of Southern Europe. A typical plant in a tub in greenhouses. All types and varieties of citrus fruits grafted onto orange trees become vigorous and form strong trunks in a relatively short time.

Wild lemon (Citrus jambhiri)

Those wishing to grow a fast-growing citrus plant should graft it onto this particular rootstock. Wild lemon is often sold under a second name: rough-skinned lemon.

To prevent fungal diseases in producing countries, edible passionflower varieties are grafted onto bred resistant varieties. In a small photo: a flower of edible passionflower, or yellow granadilla, with yellow fruits (Passiflora edulisio. flavicarpa).

Oriental persimmon (Diosрros kaki)

The rootstock for the persimmon tree (Diospyros kaki) is its species - Virginia persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) and Caucasian or common persimmon (Diospyros lotus). Virginia persimmon is winter-hardy, and therefore it is recommended for cultivation in countries with a suitable climate.

Caucasian persimmon is almost as winter-hardy. Its advantage is that, even as a young seedling, it forms strong shoots and can be used as a rootstock often within a year after grafting. Oriental persimmon seedlings are used less frequently.

In amateur gardens, seed rootstocks grown from the seeds of the citrus varieties offered here are also successfully used.

With the help of grafting, many such plants, especially useful ones, can be propagated. Rootstocks are often wildflowers of the same species, which are either grown independently from purchased seeds, or purchased from specialized nurseries and gardening centers as inexpensive seedlings.

If the edible passionflower plant (Passicora edulis) is grafted onto a selected seed rootstock, then it is less likely to be affected by typical infectious diseases, and the yield of the fruit, which, by the way, is often called passion fruit, increases. This is done, for example, in South American countries.