Useful information for gardeners: geranium diseases, their photos and treatment. How to protect geraniums from diseases and pests Diseases of pelargonium

Geranium is generally unpretentious. She loves warmth, sun and simple soil. The conditions for its maintenance are simple:

• moderate watering;
• bright sun (9 out of 10 points);
• warm air;
• good drainage and loosening of the soil;
• nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in equal proportions and very small quantities;
• not very nutritious soil with a slightly acidic pH;
• weeding;
• periodic pruning of the upper shoots, removal of dead flowers and leaves.

Important! It is best to water geraniums before 11 o’clock.

Diagnosis of problems

Brown areas

• Brown spots on the lower leaves of geranium may indicate infection with gray mold. These spots are the first symptom, followed by a dense gray coating appearing on the affected areas.
• Brown spots with a light center are a sign of Alternaria blight. Manifestations of the disease: geraniums do not bloom and dry out, and with high air humidity a velvety coating appears on them.
• Brown-red spots on the leaves and stem - geraniums are cold or have too much sun(read about why indoor geranium leaves turn red and dry out). You should move the geranium to a warmer place and select the optimal lighting level - 9 out of 10 points.

On a note. Common causes of discoloration of geranium leaves are associated with improper care.

What to do if the flower is sick: detailed instructions

The main condition is to create a quarantine so that the disease does not spread to other flowers. A careful examination of the leaves on the top and bottom, stem, flowers, soil and assessment of the condition can give a lot of information about what happened to your geranium.

Rust

If the flower is affected by rust, you must:

1. move the geranium to a cool and dry place;
2. reduce watering and stop spraying;
3. remove diseased leaves;
4. treat the plant with Topaz.

Note! Treatment is effective only in the early stages of the disease.

Fungus

If your symptoms indicate Botrytis fungus, you will have to:

1. remove affected plant fragments;
2. treat it with systemic fungicides;
3. reduce watering;
4. loosen the soil.

Ring spot

If ring spotting is detected, it is unlikely that the flower will be saved. The disease is viral and affects the entire plant., therefore the prognosis is most often unfavorable, and it is better to destroy the plant along with the soil.

Getting rid of spider mites is possible if the owner is willing to devote a lot of effort to it. A tick is a microscopic arachnid, not an insect. It is useless to fight it with insecticides.

How to get rid of spider mites:

1. wash the flower with warm water and laundry or tar soap - after this, half of the mite population will be destroyed;
2. disinfect the window sill and everything that was there, wash the windows, wash the curtains;
3. Water the geranium thoroughly and wrap it tightly in polyethylene for three days - the mites will die from high humidity.

To enhance the effect, some gardeners recommend tincture of garlic in water followed by wrapping: cotton swabs are moistened with a caustic solution and placed 2-3 on each pot.

Also Spraying with aspirin (1 tablet per 1 liter of water) is considered very effective. You can do without wrapping, using insectoacaricidal preparations every 2 weeks. However, they only affect adults. To stop the appearance of eggs, it is necessary to use hormonal drugs (Clofentesine and Flufenzine), and for a more powerful effect, combine them with any biological product.

If everything has been tried, and the pest does not give up, you can release a natural enemy on it, which will gladly destroy mites, small and large, but will not touch your flowers, animals, or yourself: this is phytoseiulus. During the day, it destroys up to five adult individuals or up to a dozen eggs, and when left without food, it dies. You can buy it at a garden center, flower shop or online.

Attention! If the cobweb has entangled the entire plant, it can no longer be saved.

Gray rot

How to cure gray rot:

1. treat geraniums with systemic fungicides to destroy the fungus;
2. reduce watering, cancel spraying, reduce air humidity.

Infection with this disease occurs through the soil. Treatment:

1. replacing soil and pot;
2. treating the plant with Ridomil Gold or Skor;
3. good ventilation;
4. loosening the soil;
5. optimal watering regime.

Insects

• wash the flower in a soap-ash solution;
• wipe the leaves with alcohol - this must be done quickly so as not to burn them;
• treat with special insecticides;
• replace the soil.

Prevention

The plant is quite resistant to disease, but prevention will help avoid unnecessary problems. It is necessary to monitor the condition of the flower and maintain:

• correct temperature conditions;
• a certain soil moisture;
• optimal lighting;
• timely feeding.

So, geranium is not the most difficult flower to care for and maintain, but it also requires attention and care. By being vigilant about the condition of the leaves, flowers, and stems, you can significantly extend the life of the geranium, and it will decorate your home for a long time with lush blooms or the invigorating aroma of the leaves.

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Let's find out how to identify this or that disease of pelargonium, and how to effectively treat it. Please note that many diseases arise due to improper home conditions, and if maintenance errors are not corrected, their treatment will be useless.

Chlorosis

If the leaves of geraniums begin to change color, this often indicates chlorosis, that is, a failure in the process of photosynthesis due to a lack of mineral supplements. If the edges of the leaves become light, this is a nitrogen deficiency. A lack of sulfur manifests itself as a uniform yellowing of the entire plant, including the stems; magnesium - the appearance of spots between the veins of old leaves; iron - spots between the veins of young leaves. With phosphorus deficiency, a yellow spot forms on old leaves near the petiole, which then spreads to the entire leaf.

This disease can be cured by regular application of balanced complex fertilizers or a specific substance. For example, in case of iron deficiency, Antichlorosin (iron chelate) is added.

Dropsy

This is a physiological disease, the cause of which is not an infection, but improper living conditions, in particular overwatering, cold and high humidity. With dropsy, swollen, swollen areas appear on the underside of the leaves. To get rid of this disease, you need to properly care for the flower: reduce watering and spraying, and improve drainage if necessary. The room should be warm and well ventilated.

Bacterial burn

Dried areas appear on the leaves of pelargonium, they begin to curl and deform. Pelargonium stops developing.

Since it is useless to fight the emerging disease, cut off completely healthy areas for cuttings, and throw away or burn the diseased plant.

Ring spot

This disease is indicated by light ring-shaped spots on the leaves. Later, the infected leaf blades curl inward or droop like umbrellas.

Without treatment, the flower may die. To save it, pick and destroy any leaves that are curled or spotted, and treat the plant with fungicides.

Powdery mildew

Fungal infection. The main symptom is the appearance of a white powdery coating on the leaves.

Diseased geraniums should be treated with fungicides or colloidal sulfur, after picking off the infected leaves.

Blackleg

Also a fungal disease that attacks the stem: a dark spot appears at the soil level, then black rot grows rapidly until the stem breaks and the plant dies. The appearance of a black leg in geraniums is caused by too heavy soil, overwatering and poor drainage.

Cannot be treated. Cut off the top for rooting, the rest can be thrown away.

Late blight

If the leaves wither and curl, as if due to a lack of water, or dark, sunken spots appear on the leaves and stem, this is late blight. In a damp room, a white fluffy coating also appears on the stains. Most often, this disease is detected in late stages, when treatment is no longer possible.

If a small area is affected, remove it and replant the plant in new soil. For prevention and treatment, “Ridomil”, “Profit Gold”, “Previkur” are used.

Gray rot

Gray rot is identified by wet brown-gray spots on the stems and leaves of pelargonium. Rot often affects the plant due to excess nitrogen, stuffiness, too wet soil and air.

You can get rid of rot by cutting off the infected areas and treating the geranium with Fundazol. Vitaros is also used. When cutting, the cut sprout can be placed in a solution of one of these drugs to prevent rot.

Alternaria blight

Bubbles and spots with a whitish coating appear on the lower part of the leaf blade. The leaf gradually fades, turns yellow and finally falls off. The cause of the disease is most often excess moisture. We get rid of this problem by picking off diseased leaves and treating the geranium with Ridomil.

Rust

The first symptom is that light spots with dark red dots appear on the leaves. You can see a brown coating underneath.

If a small area is infected, it must be removed and the pelargonium should be treated with fungicides twice (with an interval of 2 weeks). Otherwise, save the healthy parts for cuttings and destroy the plant.

Verticillium wilt

The disease can occur when there is a lack of moisture and too high an air temperature. The main symptom is yellowed and wilted leaves and inflorescences.

After removing dry parts of the plant, increase the frequency of watering (avoiding overwatering). For prevention, you can use Trichodermin.

Geranium pests

Pelargonium pests not only deplete the plant by drinking juices and eating individual parts, but also provoke the appearance of infectious diseases. In addition, they are able to spread quickly, infecting other plants. Let's find out how to deal with them.

Aphid

Whitefly

These white midges are dangerous pests of geraniums. Varieties are most often affected. How to get rid of whiteflies?

For the fight they use “Akarin”, “Aktellik”, “Fitoverm”. Curled leaves should be torn off and discarded.

Termites

When these pests appear on geraniums, spray with aspirin (1 tablet per 8 l) every other day. Among the chemicals, including for prevention, you can use Messenger and Marathon.

Nematode

Root mealybug

This oval, whitish insect often appears in waterlogged soil. It eats the roots, which is why the geranium stops developing.

If the damage is minor, to save the pelargonium, completely wash off the soil from the roots and cut off the damaged areas. For prevention, new soil is treated with Vidat or Tekta. Watering with Aktara is also recommended.

Mealybug

Caterpillars

Caterpillars appear more often when kept outdoors. The pest eats the leaves and without intervention can destroy the plant. Once you find a hole, inspect the flower.

Regular manual collection of pests often helps. If you see that someone is still eating the leaves, treat the geranium with Lepidocide or Senpai.

Slugs

Like the caterpillar, the slug eats pelargonium leaves, leaving noticeable holes in them. Manual collection can be used. If this does not help and the pest is actively eating flowers, use the preparations “Thunderstorm”, “Ferramol”, “Slug Eater”.

Please note that the treated plant may soon become ill again if maintenance errors are not corrected.

Provide geranium care in compliance with all requirements: water it with water at room temperature, avoiding overflowing and drying out; In winter, place cork or foam stands under the pot; feed the plant in a timely manner; Do not forget about proper lighting and regular ventilation of the room.

Video “Control of pests and diseases of indoor plants”

From this video you will learn how to deal with diseases and pests that attack indoor plants.

This beautiful and unpretentious indoor, and if desired, garden plant with fragrant feathery or rounded leaves, with clusters of red or pink flowers, was loved by our great-grandmothers. We are, of course, talking about geranium, which is now more often called pelargonium. Previously, it was believed that this flower rarely got sick, and they didn’t bother with its treatment: after all, it’s very easy to grow a new bush from a cutting. Now pelargonists are actively discussing diseases and methods of treating their favorite plant at home, and everyone has a “green first aid kit.” What and why can indoor pelargonium be sick and how to help it?

Home conditions for pelargonium

Pelargonium (aka geranium), which is grown on windowsills, is a native of the South African savannas. And like all Africans, she loves the sun and warmth very much, but has a negative attitude towards soil that is too nutritious and too wet. Rain is rare in the savannah, and the land there is poor.

In indoor floriculture, three types of pelargonium are known: zonal, royal (or royal) and ampelous. It is the zonal, or garden, geraniums that are planted in flower beds in the spring. They bloom for a very long time and reproduce without problems from cuttings. Royal pelargoniums are more whimsical. Their flowers are larger and more interesting than those of the zonal ones, but the flowering period is shorter and they are more difficult to reproduce. Ampelous geraniums are the most delicate and complex. But in general, pelargoniums are not very demanding and grateful flowers.

The characteristics of flowering southerners must be taken into account when growing them at home. Place pelargonium window sills on the south, east or west side. Plant it in a cramped pot so that it blooms better, give it not very nutritious soil with a good drainage layer.

Water rarely, but a lot, when it grows and blooms. But do not allow water to stagnate, remove excess water from the pan. In winter, only lightly moisten the soil; it should have time to dry out between waterings. There is no need to spray pelargonium; in nature it is not spoiled by high humidity. On the contrary, pubescent leaves can get sick if drops get on them. Be careful with fertilizing. Pelargonium can get sick from both lack of nutrition and excess. So keep your balance.

Blooming geranium needs fresh air all year round; ventilate the room where it grows. This is a good prevention of fungal diseases. In the summer, give the flower walks: put it in the fresh air or even plant it in open ground. The geranium will literally bloom there. In the fall, bring the whole plant or its cuttings home again.

Organize cool wintering, optimally from +10 to +15 degrees. And in winter, just as in summer, pelargonium needs plenty of light. If there is a deficiency, the leaves will be small and the flowering will be sparse or. If there is not enough sun, artificial lighting (phytolamps, fluorescent or LED) will help.

Indoor geranium responds well to pinching and pruning. Form a fluffy bush in spring and summer, trim pelargonium for rejuvenation. And be sure to remove faded flower stalks so that new ones appear.

But don’t rush to transplant pelargonium from pot to pot. This plant is not prone to changing places. After relocation, she may turn yellow and become depressed so that resuscitation is required.

Why do pelargoniums start to get sick more often?

Once upon a time, flowering geraniums were considered very healthy plants and resistant to all sorts of ailments. Probably the fact is that flower growers did not even try to understand why the leaves suddenly turned yellow or red, and the buds and flowers withered. They simply broke off a branch and grew a new healthy plant, and threw away the old one. Now pelargonium has become more expensive, both figuratively and literally. Flower lovers become attached to their pets and do not want to lose them. And varietal types of pelargonium are not so little worth throwing at them.

At the same time, with the development of home floriculture, plants developed diseases that our grandmothers, who grew geraniums on the windowsill, did not even suspect. Oddly enough, progress is to blame. New varieties of pelargonium are very decorative; they bloom more brightly. And at the same time, they are more delicate and more easily infected with fungal or viral infections, and suffer more from care errors and metabolic diseases. Plant immunity has become much weaker. And fungi, viruses and pests are hardened, they mutate, adapting to modern drugs, and increase resistance. So it turns out that pelargonium lovers are forced to acquire special medicines and reference books to treat their flowers. But it is not all that bad. Pelargonium, which has been created in optimal conditions and is adequately cared for, will be healthy and certainly bloom.

Video: all about the problems of caring for geraniums

Diseases and pests of pelargonium

Diseases of pelargonium can be divided into two large groups: non-infectious and infectious. Non-infectious diseases cause violations of the rules of care and metabolic processes of the plant. These are hypothermia, swelling, deficiency or excess of microelements, a reaction to chemicals. Infectious diseases are the result of infection by a fungus, bacteria or virus; these are various rots, spots, rust, powdery mildew, and blackleg. Such diseases are dangerous because they are easily transmitted from flower to flower. Therefore, when an infection is detected, it is necessary to urgently take quarantine measures to prevent infection and epidemics.

Pests are not too fond of pelargonium. For example, a punishment for gardeners - spider mites or scale insects rarely attack geraniums. Perhaps the specific aroma of the essential oil contained in the foliage of most plant species repels insects. But whiteflies, aphids, mealybugs and rootbugs are not bothered by this feature. And in the summer, when kept outside, geraniums are attacked by caterpillars.

Phytocontrol measures

Geranium diseases, treatment and prevention

Pelargoniums most often get sick due to waterlogging of the soil. It is the flooding of the plant that gives impetus to the development of various types of rot and spotting. The disease progresses especially quickly if the room is stale, stale air, too cold or, conversely, too hot. Pelargonium gets sick from a deficiency of microelements, but also from overfeeding. These problems weaken the immune system. As a result, the plant becomes more easily infected with fungal or viral infections.

Problems caused by metabolic disorders and care errors

Diseases related to care and metabolism are not contagious. Plants with etiolation, chlorosis, deficiency or excess of nutrients are not sent to quarantine. But these ailments cannot be left without treatment, because sooner or later they will lead to more serious problems.

Etiolation is a disease of light deficiency. If pelargonium does not have enough light, it stretches unsightly, the leaves become smaller and lighter. Such a plant will not bloom. It is not difficult to cure: place the geranium on the sunny side, and in winter add artificial lighting. Just be careful, get used to bright light gradually so that there are no burns. In addition, for the harmonious formation of a flower, it is useful to turn it towards the light with different sides.

Edema, or edema, mainly affects ivy-leaved pelargoniums, less often other species. The cause of the disease is non-drying soil combined with cold and humid air. The roots absorb water, but the leaves do not have time to evaporate it.

The tissue ruptures and watery pads form on the underside. Affected leaves die or lose their decorative properties. The pads enlarge and become coarser, acquiring a brownish color. Therapeutic measures include drying the soil, adjusting watering, and reducing air humidity. Prevention - good drainage and fresh air.

Chlorosis is a disruption of the process of photosynthesis. Symptoms of the disease are changes in leaf color and slower growth. Usually, when talking about chlorosis, they mean iron deficiency. But in pelargoniums, the lack of other chemical elements also affects health and appearance. For example, a deficiency of magnesium causes yellowing of the center of the leaves, a little manganese - a green mesh appears along the veins with yellowness inside, the edges of the foliage turn white from a lack of nitrogen.

In all cases, there is only one solution - to select a mineral complex containing the necessary components. For example, iron chelate (Antichlorosin) for deficiency of this element. Or a fertilizer balanced in composition.

Pelargonists note that the preparations Uniflor-Rost, Uniflor-micro, plant regenerator Pokon Green Power, Agricola Aqua for yellowing of leaves have proven themselves well.

But no less than a deficiency of nutrients, their excess is harmful for pelargonium. Oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen leads to yellowing of the leaves, too much phosphorus - the edges will become brown and dry. Therefore, it is better to slightly underfeed the geranium.

Metabolic problems can also be solved by transplanting pelargonium. The right substrate should have everything you need for growth and health.

Geraniums find it difficult to take root in a new place. Immediately after transplantation, they need gentle care. Pelargonium is placed in a warm place. Shaded from direct sun. Water moderately; unestablished roots easily rot. No spraying is necessary. You can add stimulants to irrigation water: epin or zircon.

Pelargonium can get sick after using herbicides or fungicides. The former are used to control weeds in open ground, the latter - to treat rot. In this case, transplantation or gentle transshipment will help. Maybe , you will have to get rid of the affected foliage, but it will grow again. The main thing is the condition of the root. If it is healthy, the plant can be treated.

Infectious diseases

A fertile environment for the development of pathogens of infectious diseases is waterlogged and unsterilized soil. Various fungi, bacteria and viruses multiply there quickly. Pelargonium that has contracted an infection must be isolated. If a green patient is left among healthy people, everyone can become infected. Some infections are so fleeting and dangerous that immediate destruction of the diseased plant is required.

Prevention of infectious diseases:

• attentive, without excess, watering;
• dry air, especially in a cool room;
• mandatory soil sterilization;
• pest control;
• quarantine for new plants.

Bacterial burn is damage to leaves caused by different types of microorganisms. Dry spots appear, leaves become deformed. Another manifestation is that when the leaves fade, they droop like an umbrella. The plant stops growing. In this case, the root system does not suffer. Ways of transmission of infection are through splashes of water, dirty tools during pruning, through soil, and insects. The disease has no cure. Try to root the uninfected parts. The rest should be packed in a bag and thrown away, or better yet, burned.

Do not wait for the foliage to completely turn yellow; cut the plant as soon as possible. But keep in mind that limp umbrella leaves can also be a sign of dry soil.

Viral diseases cause a peculiar mesh pattern on the leaves. It usually appears during the cold season, when the defenses weaken. Leaves affected by the virus look picturesque. And yet it is a disease. The plant lags behind in development, but can live a long time. There are specific viruses characteristic only of pelargoniums; tomato and tobacco viruses are especially common. Viral infections cannot be treated. The gardener has three options: destroy the plant, remove variegated leaves, or grow pelargonium with an unusual color. If you decide to save a flower, be careful: keep it at a distance, do not use the same tools to trim diseased and healthy plants. The virus can be carried by insects.

The viral infection that causes crocodile spot is now being used to develop new varieties. Plants are infected for decorative leaves.

Fungal diseases

1. Gray rot affects the leaves, peduncles and stems of geraniums. Weeping grayish-brown spots form on them. The disease is provoked by overwatering and excess nitrogen in the soil. Treatment: rotten leaves and parts of the stem are removed, watering and fertilizing are stopped. To destroy the pathogen, fungicides (Fundazol or Vitaros) are used.
2. Stem and root late blight is caused by the late blight fungus. The green part of the pelargonium fades; dark depressed spots are visible on the bottom of the stem and roots. They are increasing. Treatment: dryness, change of soil, treatment with Previkur, Ridomil or Profit Gold.
3. Ring spot affects only the leaves. First, light spots in the shape of rings form, and then they curl. Geranium slows down and does not bloom. Treatment: removal of damaged leaves and treatment with fungicides.
4. Powdery mildew is a rare fungal disease of leaves. A whitish coating remains on them, similar to flour. The disease spoils the appearance, but does not pose a serious threat. Treatment: remove the leaves affected by the fungus, spray the plant with a fungicide or dust with sulfur.
5. Blackleg is a fungal disease of stem cuttings and, less commonly, adult pelargoniums. Waterlogged and heavy soil without drainage contributes to the development of infection. The stem at the root darkens and rots. Infected cuttings should be discarded. And the tops of adult plants need to be cut off and rooted.
6. Rust is a disease that affects zonal pelargoniums. The initial symptom is light green spots on the leaves with red-brown dots. The spotting becomes larger and the leaf dries out. Brown concentric sporangia of the fungus, which is the causative agent of the disease, are visible from below. Spores spread through the air and with water, they quickly penetrate into healthy leaves. The incubation period is up to 10 days. Treatment: remove infected leaves, use healthy parts for cuttings, if the plant is not seriously damaged, limit watering, organize air circulation around, treat with a fungicide, repeat after 2 weeks.
7. Root rot is the most dangerous disease. The fungus literally eats the root, pits appear on it, and then the tissues become limp. The green part of the pelargonium turns yellow, withers and, if the disease is advanced, dies. Only after taking the plant out of the pot can you decide whether to treat it or throw it away.

If the rot has affected only a small part of the roots, follow these steps:

1. Stop watering pelargonium.
2. Remove it from the pot and wash the soil off the roots.
3. Remove the rotten parts, leaving only white healthy tissue.
4. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal, cinnamon or sulfur.
5. Treat the plant, including the root and green parts, with a fungicide (Hom, Acrobat, Oxychom, Fundazol, Previkur).
6. Plant the geranium in a new pot with fresh, pre-sterilized soil.
7. Start watering after one to two weeks.

Rot and other infectious diseases in the photo

Bacterial burn cannot be cured Viral diseases cannot be treated Root rot in an advanced stage leads to the death of the plant Zonal pelargoniums living in stuffy rooms become infected with rust Blackleg most often affects cuttings, but adult plants can also become infected Bacterial burn can be confused with moisture deficiency Ring spot threatens only decorative properties pelargonium Powdery mildew is not a very dangerous disease Gray mold is treated with dryness and fungicides Late blight is a fungal disease, the leaves turn yellow and spots appear on the stems

Video: mold, rot and other fungal diseases - prevention and control

Pests and their control

1. The root bug loves moist soil, where it quickly reproduces and feeds on the roots of pelargonium. It loses its strength, the leaves become small and yellow, and the young shoots die off. You can see the pest only by removing the plant from the pot. If the damage is significant, the flower dies; try cutting and rooting cuttings. If the problem is detected in time, wash off the soil completely. Use a knife to remove the affected roots, dip the remaining ones in a container of hot water, then dry them and sprinkle with charcoal. Plant in new, sterile soil; for prevention, you can spray it with Tekta or Vidat.
2. Mealybugs hide under clumps of sticky white substance, similar to cotton wool. The insect sucks the sap of the plant. Be sure to isolate the infected flower; the worm easily spreads to other plants. Remove pests by hand using a damp cloth. After this, spray or wash the pelargonium with a soap-alcohol solution (20 g of laundry soap and 20 ml of alcohol per 1 liter of hot water). If the lesion is massive, treat with Fufanon, Aktara or Aktellik insecticides.
3. The whitefly lives on the underside of the leaf and feeds on the juices of pelargonium, especially loving the more delicate royal ones. Significantly affected leaves must be removed, and the plant must be made poisonous to the pest. To do this, water the soil with a solution of the drug Aktara (1 g per 10 liters of water, with plant heights up to 40 cm), perform the procedure at least three times, at weekly intervals. The larvae of the harmful butterfly will die out. As soon as they appear again, and this may be on royal pelargoniums, apply Aktara. Another way to combat whiteflies: treatment with Confidor. Spray the plant, cover with a bag and leave overnight. This drug has a drawback - a strong odor. Therefore, it is better to carry out processing outside the home.
4. Aphids eat young shoots, buds and leaves and settle in large colonies. The insect can be brought into the house with store bouquets or new plants. Peduncles affected by aphids die, leaves curl and dry. Remove the pest by hand or cut off damaged shoots and buds. In case of severe damage, treat according to the instructions with Mospilan or Fitoverm.
5. Caterpillars can greatly harm pelargonium, which spends the summer in the fresh air. They chew many holes in the leaves. Cutworms (small gray butterflies similar to moths) or meadow moths lay eggs on geraniums. They and the caterpillars can be collected, and the drugs Senpai or Lepidocide will protect the pelargonium. Treatment will last for 2-3 weeks.

All summer our favorite geraniums were in the garden. Come fall, it's time to bring them back indoors. Uninvited guests may also move in with them. Insect pests and viral diseases can be very dangerous to your houseplant collection. Before bringing geraniums into the house, let's take a look at pest control measures to protect both the beautiful geraniums and the plants in the house.

Source:

Insect pests

Greenhouse whitefly is a very common problem and can enter the garden on infected plants. Leaves affected by whitefly turn yellow and fall off; small, snowy white flies take up residence on the undersides of leaves. Black spots appear on the upper surface of the leaf, growing on the sugary excrement of the whitefly. Control of whiteflies - treatment with aerosols with insecticidal soap, horticultural oils or modern insecticides. Never buy plants with whitefly infestations.

Caterpillars such as cabbage caterpillars and earthworms can infest geraniums in flower beds. Caterpillars can be controlled with Bacillus thuringiensis sprays.
Ticks. When attacked by mites, young leaves appear scorched, then curl and fall off. Tick ​​control - spray treatment with insecticidal soap, horticultural oils and modern insecticides against ticks.
Subterranean termites - can get into a flower bed or pot of geraniums being grown, where they make a tunnel in the stems, the plants turn yellow and die. Clean out affected pots and planting beds, destroy any visible termite tunnels, and treat the soil with a recommended insecticide to kill termites. Check for termite tunnels in the home's foundation, and ensure that termites do not travel from the flower beds to the house.
Slugs - can become a problem for plants; they may be trapped with saucers of stale beer

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Aphids often infest geraniums. Use beneficial predators to exterminate aphids - beetles and flies of the syrphid type; aerosols with horticultural oils such as Sunspray; aerosol with insecticidal soap type M. Pede.

Pelargonium (geranium) pest control products:
Aspirin
Aspirin, dissolved in water at a ratio of one tablet (finely ground) to 2 gallons of water (8 L), can be sprayed on the foliage of geraniums every 3 weeks during the growing season to reduce infestations of various types of sucking insects.
Messenger
This system consists of natural proteins that help the plant develop a stronger immune system, activate the plant’s internal resistance mechanism, thanks to which the plant repels both insect attacks and fungal development on its own, without pesticides. The dry granular preparation is dissolved in water in accordance with the instructions, poured into a watering can and the soil in pots with plants is soaked in the solution.
Marathon
Whiteflies, aphids, mealybugs and fungus gnats will disappear once you use this highly effective insecticide. Simply sprinkle the granular product on the surface of the soil in containers with plants, and then water. One application of the insecticide in early March will last up to 12 weeks and can provide protection throughout the season, otherwise the insecticide can be applied again.
Monterey Garden Insect Spray
Currently, this insecticide is the best commercially available for the control of budworm caterpillars. The concentrated liquid insecticide is diluted with water, and the new growth and flower buds are directly sprayed with this solution every 5-6 days.
Use caution when working with chemicals and read directions before using formulations. Store all of the above plant protection products in a cool, dark place to maintain the effectiveness of the products. Always follow recommended chemical application rates as higher dosages may be toxic to plants.

Herbicide tolerance

Geraniums are tolerant of the herbicides bensulide (Betasan), DCPA (Dacthal), napropamide (Devrinol) and oryzalin (Surflan) which are applied after planting to prevent broadleaf tobacco and grassy plant weeds. After the emergence of grassy weeds, fluazifop (Fusilade DX) and sethoxydim (Vantage) can be applied to geranium flower beds.

A - FLOWER MOLD (FLOWER MOLD)
Because pelargoniums have many small flowers that make up a flower head, they can be prone to developing gray mold (Botrytis), especially in wet weather. This can eventually lead to trouble with the stem when it also develops brown soft rot. Make sure to remove wilted flowers before rot has spread to the entire stem of the plant.
B - EDEMA
Edema is a condition in which leaves appear misshapen and have small growths on the underside of the leaf. This disease is usually characteristic of greenhouse plants. Several factors can cause this problem, including overwatering or high humidity. Reduce watering and improve ventilation to eliminate this problem.
C - LEAF SPOTS
Leaf spots are very common and widespread on pelargoniums. Possible causes are bacterial or fungal infections leading to damage on the leaves and blackened stems. The problem is more obvious in crowded greenhouses. Avoid overmoistening the soil; improve ventilation to reduce air humidity.
D - SNAILS/SLUGS
Snails and slugs cause minor damage to pelargoniums, mainly to young plants, by feeding on their young leaves and stems. This occurs mainly during wet weather. Damage caused by snails can be similar to damage caused by caterpillars; slugs leave a distinctive "slime trail." Vulnerable plant specimens should be protected by placing gravel or sharp eggshell paths around the pot or planting. Alternatively, use slug traps or scatter pellets.
E - PELARGONIUM RUST
This is a common and serious disease that affects pelargoniums, although this disease should not be confused with rust attacking fuchsias. The spread of pelargonium diseases to Great Britain from its natural habitat in South Africa occurred in the mid-1960s. Rust affects only zonal pelargoniums. The visible signs are similar to fuchsia rust: brownish-yellow pimples that develop on the undersides of the leaves. Severe lesions may cause leaf drop, which seriously affects plant health, resulting in fewer flowers and shoots. Remove and destroy any infected leaves and spray the plant with a systemic fungicide. Pelargonium rust is specific to this variety and will not spread to neighboring plants of any other genus, such as fuchsia.
F - TRACKS (CATERPILLARS)
During the summer months, when the caterpillars are active, you will almost certainly find various holes that have been eaten away in the leaves, with no trace of mucus! These are usually small holes located towards the center of the leaf, although the edges can also be eaten away. Some growing shoot tips may become entangled together when the caterpillar uses the silk to attach itself to the leaf petiole - this helps it feed in relative safety. Remove and destroy any caterpillars you may find, or spray the plant with a systemic insecticide.
G - VIRUSES
Various viruses infect pelargoniums, but the most common is the Pelargonium leaf curl virus.
PLCV), although the leaves do not actually curl, they develop pale yellowish spots - not to be confused with rust, which affects the underside of the leaf. With more severe damage, the leaves take on a curly appearance. Signs of this disease usually appear in the spring on overwintered plants and cuttings taken from plants several years old. New foliage is rarely affected. Cuttings taken the previous fall may show signs of this disease more intensely in hot, dry weather. The problem is believed to be carried in the soil used for planting. All heavily affected plants should be destroyed.
H - BLACK LEG
Blackleg is a very aptly named disease that affects cuttings and young plants. Blackening of the stems spreads upward from the soil level, the affected tissue dries out, at the same time the leaves also begin to wither and dry out. The plant or cuttings become unstable and lean to fall. Eventually the plant becomes so weakened that it dies. Careful farming can help get rid of this problem, making sure pots and trays are cleaned and disinfected before you use them, and the soil should also be sterilized. Take cuttings only from healthy, disease-free plants and dip them in fungicide. Use clean, cool tap water for irrigation. Avoid using water that has been stored in dirty rain barrels. While the plants are in the greenhouse, keep the plants well ventilated.

Before we look at what diseases can affect your favorite flowering geranium and how to deal with them, let's look at other reasons why plants begin to wilt. For example, external signs such as the appearance of brown spots on leaves or dropping flowers may be associated with:

• Too small a pot, which is why the plant’s root system simply does not develop.
• Lack or absence of drainage in the container.
• Drafts or lack of sunlight.
• Excess moisture during watering.
• Frequent application of nitrogen fertilizers, as a result of which green mass quickly develops to the detriment of flowering.
• Deficiency of phosphorus or potassium in the soil.

Wilting geranium

To eliminate these factors, you just need to reconsider, putting watering and fertilizing in order. But coping with diseases and their consequences is quite difficult. Let's take a closer look at how diseases can “attack” indoor geraniums and what methods against them are considered the most effective.

A frequent “guest” of geraniums is the Botrytis mushroom, which can appear at any time of the year and affects flowers of different ages. Most often, this fungus appears as a result of excessive watering or due to too humid air. Its main feature is the dark fluff that appears on the leaves or stem. At first the spots are small, after a couple of days they begin to grow, which can lead to complete infection of the flowers.

Preventive measures include cleaning the soil in the pot from weeds, removing all wilted flowers, and proper watering - water should not stagnate in the ground. And during watering, make sure that water does not get on the leaves and flower buds. It happens that the mushroom appears as a result of too dense plantings, when individual flowers do not have enough ventilation. That is why, when planting geraniums, keep in mind that the distance between plants should be about 10 cm. If you notice sprouts affected by the fungus, remove them and treat the flowers themselves with fungicidal agents.

Removing faded geranium flowers

Another well-known fungal disease is root rot, which most often appears due to severe stagnation of water in the soil.

From the roots, rot spreads to the stem and leaves, the plant turns brown, the roots are usually covered with a gray coating, which is somewhat reminiscent of a cobweb. If you don’t know how to deal with this disease, the plant will rot very quickly. The first thing to do is improve the drainage in the container. It is also worth replacing the soil mixture with a new one, looser and more breathable, which will avoid stagnation of water. While fighting the disease, you should stop using nitrogen-containing fertilizers. It is also worth removing all affected parts of the flower and treating it with a suitable product.

Unlike fungal diseases, bacterial diseases are caused by various pathogenic bacteria. Usually, brown spots appear on the affected flowers, which at the very beginning of the disease are small in size and located on the back of the leaves. Another characteristic sign is the black veins of the leaves and their drying.

Bacterial disease of pelargonium

If the disease becomes systemic (appearing and then disappearing), the plant becomes very weak and lethargic, the branches gradually die, the stem turns black, and the flower eventually dries out. Prevention is simple: provide good drainage, monitor watering, use soil for planting that allows air and water to pass through well. Sick plants also need to be watered with fungicides. But if the stage is too thick, when there are no treatment options, the geranium will have to be burned so as not to infect the rest of the plants.

Thus, the most famous disease caused by “bacteria” is rust, when red spots form on the leaves, in the middle of which there are spores. If you don't know how to deal with the disease, it will very quickly consume your favorite flowers and destroy them. The most effective anti-rust remedy is copper sulfate - prepare a solution, tear off all infected leaves and water the plant with the prepared mixture. To consolidate the result, repeat the treatment after a week.

Indoor geranium, like any other plant, has quite a few enemies. For example, these are aphids, caterpillars, ants, whiteflies. We will tell you about the most proven methods of pest control:

• Aspirin, which can be used to combat almost all pests. Just dilute one tablet in 1 liter of water and treat the flowers three times a week until you kill all the pests.
• Marathon It is considered a good remedy against whiteflies and aphids. This drug is convenient because it does not need to be diluted in water, and its duration of action is almost three months. Just sprinkle with granules Marathon pots of flowers and water.
• In the fight against a pest such as a caterpillar, you need to use a product Monterey. Simply spray the flowers and buds with a liquid solution, preparing it according to the instructions. To increase effectiveness, repeat treatment every other week.

Spraying flowers with Monterey liquid solution

And to make geranium more resistant to pests, diseases and their consequences in the form of poor growth and lack of flowering, be sure to use the product for preventive purposes Messenger. This drug helps increase the immunity of flowers. Just dilute the product according to the instructions and water the soil. By the way, this drug will also help you with.

Geranium is very responsive to good care and, with the right actions, gardeners will delight with their bright flowering. But even with proper care, geraniums sometimes stop blooming. What to do in this case? The beginning of long flowering of this plant is due to proper maintenance in the winter season. In winter, this plant prefers cool conditions and minimal watering. The cooler it was in the winter, the longer the geranium will bloom in the summer.

Geranium flowering

In April, the flower should be transplanted into a new pot and fed using potash fertilizers. To stimulate the development of new buds and further flowering, be sure to remove all faded inflorescences. Another important condition is high-quality lighting. In summer, it is advisable to place the pot with geranium in a lighted place, but at the same time so that direct sunlight does not fall on the plant - this will lead to burns. In winter, geraniums need artificial lighting for 4-5 hours every day. In spring you should also trim the flower, leaving 2-3 of the most powerful shoots.

Other reasons why your indoor flowers suddenly stopped blooming:

• The pot is too large, as a result of which the geranium develops its roots and does not have time to bloom.
• Too little watering can also result in geraniums not blooming.