The simplest and easiest DIY verandas. Summer veranda at the dacha: step-by-step instructions

Many owners of individual homes often think about new extensions. After all, when you yourself are the owner of a dacha or a personal plot, you definitely want to do something exclusive and as comfortable as possible. Let's consider one of the most common options for extensions - a veranda. At the same time, we will analyze the methods of constructing it with our own hands.

The need for a veranda. Functions

The need for a veranda for your own home is obvious, because it is a place where it is easy to gather the whole family for a summer barbecue dinner, and at the same time hide from the evening rain and watch its threads through the large windows. But at the same time, I want to be able to stay warm from the autumn wind while on the veranda. It is often assumed that some kind of greenhouse will be placed inside such an extension. Hence the functions that this building should have:

good roof, preferably transparent or matte,
huge windows,
warm walls,
large space,
close connection with home.

A similar extension to a house is sometimes also called a terrace.

Design of possible options with photos

For clarity, we present several options for an attached veranda. Here, for example, is the design of a simple summer structure associated with a house.

A simple open veranda does not protect against the cold

Here we see a classic option: the roof of a residential building is initially extended, then the overhanging edge is supported on pillars, after which the floor is paved. The open veranda is ready. However, in the fall, as in the photo, inside such a space will be very cold and uncomfortable.

It's another matter when the veranda is covered with glass. Then the wind will not blow into it. Here is a version of a similar design.

A veranda with glass walls in the form of windows provides good protection from the wind.

Here the columns are already solid, made of brickwork, and the area between the columns is covered with huge windows, which simultaneously provides aesthetics, protection from the wind, and excellent visibility.

An even more reliable option in terms of heat is a permanent veranda.

The building in this case is more like a room in a house

Here the terrace is part of the house. The degree of glazing is also high, but there are also solid walls and warm floors, powered by heating the house or by electric current. Although there is still a feeling of the presence of the surrounding world.

How to build it yourself: step-by-step instructions

Project and drawing

We start with design. It is necessary at this stage to decide on the size of the veranda. The width of the building is usually taken to be no more than 3 m, otherwise the terrace will be too bulky. But as for the length, the owners must decide for themselves whether to extend the veranda over the entire house or not. Most often, a summer room is attached to only half or a third of the building.

Foundation. For a veranda, the most successful option is a columnar one. In this case, they simply put several metal or asbestos pipes into the project, which will be dug into the ground standing to the depth of soil freezing. Their insides will have to be concreted with reinforcing rods. It is advisable to connect the protruding pipe heads with a grillage - a concreted tape around the perimeter.
Walls. There is a unanimous opinion on this issue: it is better to use the same material from which the house is built, because each type of building element has its own degree of expansion. For example, a wooden veranda may become slightly deformed over time and “press” on a brick house. If the hut is made of logs, then a terrace made of boards will come in handy.
Roof. Usually it is single-pitched. There is room for design thought here. Most often, a transparent roof is made, for example, from colored polycarbonate. You can use thick glass, but it is enough to simply extend the roof of the house, be it slate or tiles. The main thing is to maintain the required slope. Typically, the slope of the veranda roof is less than that of the roof slopes of the house, since the width of the extension is small. A large pitch angle of the veranda roof will lower its front part too much.

We will talk in more detail about choosing the appropriate components at each stage of construction in the process of describing the general step-by-step instructions. Having decided on the materials and dimensions, they make a drawing or sketch.

Typical diagram of a house veranda

The figure indicates the dimensions of the future building, as well as important dimensions, for example, the distances between connecting elements, roof slope, etc.

Necessary materials and calculations with detailed examples

As an example, we will write down instructions for constructing a wooden frame of a lean-to veranda 3 meters long and 2 meters wide. Let us take the height of such an extension to be 2 m directly next to the house and 1.7 m from the front side.

To build such a veranda we will use the following components:

wooden beams 100 mm x 100 mm with a total length of 42 m,
logs in the form of wooden beams 50 mm x 100 mm long, each 3 m (with a margin) - 4 pieces (for 3 meters of a building, according to building codes, 4 roof supports are enough),
edged boards 20 mm thick for walls, board dimensions: 200 mm x 3 m, 200 mm x 2 m, their total area is 10 m 2,
boards for roof sheathing 25 mm thick, with dimensions 150 mm x 3 m, total area 4.5 m 2,
floor boards with an area of 2 m x 3 m, that is, an area of 6 m 2, board size: 30 mm x 250 mm x 2 m,
nails approximately 2 kg.
metal or asbestos pipe with a diameter of 100 mm for a foundation 1.5 m long - 6 pieces (1 piece for each meter of length of the building is quite sufficient according to building codes),
polyethylene with an area of approximately 1 m2 (for 6 pipes),
mastic for coating pipe ends - 1 bucket,
fittings with a diameter of 8 mm - 12 rods (2 per pipe) 1.5 m each (according to the length of the pipes),
cement 15 kg,
sand 45 kg.

We will show how the materials were calculated.

To fill the insides of pipes with a diameter of 100 mm inserted into the ground with concrete, you will need a little cement and sand. The total volume is equal to the product of the number of pipes and their volume. The latter is calculated as the product of the cross-sectional area of the pipe and its length: V = 0.1 x 0.1 x 1.5 = 0.015 m3. Here, for simplicity, the cross-sectional area of the pipe is taken as the cross-sectional area of a square of 100 mm x 100 mm.

For six pipes the volume will be as follows: V total. = 6 x 0.015 = 0.09 m3. Let us take the volume of solution we need equal to 0.1 m3. According to building standards, to prepare such a volume it is enough to take 15 kg of cement and 45 kg of sand.

Let's also count lumber. Beams 100 mm x 100 mm are needed as connecting elements of the frame. We will have three horizontal straps, namely the lower perimeter at floor level, the window sill perimeter, and the same at the roof level. We will also have vertical racks; according to the number of pipes, 6 pieces of 2 m in height are enough. Totally, summing everything up, we get the total length of the beams 100 mm x 100 mm: L = (2 m + 3 m + 2 m + 3 m) x 3 + 2 m x 6 = 42 m.

For walls with a standard height of 1 meter for verandas, you will need the number of boards that will cover an area equal to the product of the perimeter of the building and the height of 1 m: S = (2 m + 3 m + 2 m + 3 m) x 1 = 10 m2.

Boards for sheathing under the roofing will be installed with slots equal to their width. Therefore, half the approximate roofing area is sufficient. The latter is approximately 3 m x 3 m = 9 m 2 (taking into account the roof slope). This means that 4.5 m2 is enough for us.

Construction tools

We will need the following tools for work:

hacksaw,
hammer,
axe,
shovel for mixing the solution,
bayonet shovel for digging.

How to build: step by step instructions

First you need to mark the future veranda. Relying on our own drawing, we find the installation points for the foundation pipes. The maximum possible step between such supports is 2 m. It is advisable to step back at least 4 cm from the foundation of the house and also determine the location of the holes for supports along the building.
The depth of the cavities for foundation pipes should be about 1.5 m, depending on the region. The holes themselves can be dug with a shovel. There is an option to drill them with a universal hand drill. It is sold in many hardware supermarkets. After preparing the cavities, they are filled with solid polyethylene for waterproofing, and then metal or asbestos-cement pipes are inserted into them. After that, two or three rods of reinforcement are pushed inside each such element and concrete is poured. The top end of each pipe should protrude at least 20 cm above the ground.
After the concrete has hardened, you can begin installing the floor. But first you need to either make a grillage - connect all the pipes with a concrete strip, or at least sprinkle crushed stone over the total area of the future veranda. If you do not carry out the described manipulations, debris will subsequently accumulate under the floor of the terrace, and the covering itself will be cold for the owners’ feet.
Let's consider the option without a grillage, when the entire planned area of the veranda is covered with crushed stone. It's both cheaper and simpler. After filling our plot of land with stones, they need to be leveled with a shovel. Next, it is necessary to lay wooden beams with a profile of 100 mm x 100 mm along the pipes protruding from the ground, coated with mastic, fastening them in the corners with standard locks. These locks, made with an axe, are also called cuts or notches. Their options are shown in the diagram below. The future floor will rest on the beams described.
The diagram shows different types of locks for connecting beams; we use the simplest ones
The next step is to build the frame of the veranda. We also make vertical posts from beams with a section of 100 mm x 100 mm. We fasten them to the perimeter of the base. After installing the verticals, we line the flooring with edged boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more. We nail the floorboards to the beams.
We install window sill beams at a height of 1 m, simultaneously fastening the verticals with them. The profile of window sill bars can also be 100 mm x 100 mm. To connect the beams in all cases we use the classic lock discussed above. We also use screws or nails. You can strengthen all connections with metal corners. After installing the window sill beams on the outside of the veranda, we nail the edged boards to close the space from the floor to the window sill beams.
We make the top trim of the future veranda. To do this, we connect the verticals with the same beams, then we rest standard logs on this structure for mounting the roof.
Important to remember! Since a typical veranda uses a pitched roof, the front verticals should end up lower than the rear verticals adjacent to the house by about 30 cm. If we didn’t take this into account right away, you can take a hacksaw and saw down the standing beams.

The wooden frame of the veranda, in this case it is made close to the house, part of the frame rests on the foundation of the house, this option is acceptable
To erect a terrace roof, sheathing is nailed onto the logs. Then sheets of roofing material are fixed and the same hard material is laid that decorates the slopes of the common roof. There are also other options here that will provide an exclusive architectural form. For example, frames can be mounted on joists and “filled” with especially strong glass. This solution will provide additional heating of the room from the sun, even in winter.
On a note. In recent years, another possibility has become widespread: it is enough to screw polycarbonate sheets used for the construction of greenhouses to the joists. This is a very convenient and practical material. It bends well, which allows you to create arched structures. With its help it is easy to create the most unusual roof for your veranda.
We may not fill the space for windows if an open veranda is enough for us. If it is decided that the building will be closed, it is enough to install ordinary glazed wooden frames. At the same time, window frames can be “equipped” with multi-colored glass, resulting in exclusive stained glass windows that are noticeable even from afar. A similar example can be studied in this photo.
Stained glass windows in the design of a wooden veranda, the glass here is made to order
Special attention must be paid to installing the door. The opening for this element is initially laid into the project on the side of the terrace. Under no circumstances should you install the veranda door directly opposite the common entrance, otherwise drafts will not be avoided!

Final finishing of floors, walls and ceilings. How to insulate and with what

In our example, the lower part of the veranda is finished with boards. Such walls can be easily insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam. You just need to glue the slabs of material with mounting adhesive. Outside, plank walls can easily be “covered” with siding; it is screwed to the wood with self-tapping screws. The insulating material on the inside can be finished with aesthetic panels, for example, made of plastic, for additional insulation.

There is an option to cover the space between the window sill beams and the floor with sandwich panels or OSB boards instead of boards. In the latter case, it is sufficient to use sawdust enclosed in polyethylene as an insulating material. Plastic bags with sawdust are attached with metal mounting tape and nails. And the inner surface, after securing plastic bags with sawdust, is finished with plywood. There are no boundaries for design ideas; the final decision depends entirely on the owner.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video on the topic.

Video: How to attach a wooden summer terrace to your house

We have provided design options and detailed instructions for constructing a veranda, which is an extension of a private house. It remains to add one last note: when inventing an unusual, stylish veranda, do not forget about the building codes and regulations, and also try to make sure that even at the design stage your veranda does not spoil the overall picture of the house.

Many owners of private houses, wanting to increase the usable area of the building, seek to attach various structures to it. One of the most common is the open veranda. Let's look at how a terrace is made from wood - the most affordable building material in our country.

We are drawing up an extension project

Before you start building a veranda made of wood or any other materials, you should carefully study the design documentation. This will allow you to pre-calculate all the necessary materials, decide on the shape of the future structure, and avoid possible mistakes during construction. Even if you do not have the necessary level of drawing or similar tools, we recommend making simple sketches of the future building indicating its dimensions.

Users often search:

When drawing up a project, you should think through the entire sequence of work and the most optimal methods for its implementation. Similarly, you should decide on the equipment and tools necessary for building a terrace.

Stage one - laying the foundation

After determining the construction sequence, a do-it-yourself wooden veranda is built step by step. You need to start with the base of the terrace, which is a shallow strip or columnar foundation.

As a rule, both types are quite widespread when making home extensions independently. Let's consider the features of the data for the future terrace.

Column by column

Simple and less expensive in terms of materials and physical effort is the columnar foundation of the veranda. It consists of several separate supports of rectangular cross-section in a horizontal plane. The following materials are used for manufacturing:

red ceramic brick;
concrete foundation blocks;
concrete building blocks;
masonry sand-cement mortar.

Before installation, holes of 0.6-1 m are dug under future posts. The depth of burial under the terrace supports depends on the quality of the soil and the mass of the future structure. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand and crushed stone with intermediate compaction. A concrete pad is poured on top of the fill under the base of the terrace for leveling.

The wooden veranda should rest evenly on all elements of the foundation. To do this, the pillars are brought to a common height level. For this purpose, you can use partially cut blocks or bricks, as well as different thicknesses of joints. Once all deck supports are installed, they must be protected from moisture. In this case, ready-made bitumen mastic and roll waterproofing are used. The heads of the posts under the veranda are waterproofed in the same way.

Tape under the terrace - pros and cons

The terrace requires a lot of effort during construction. Main stages:

marking tape along the perimeter of the terrace walls;
digging a trench to a depth of at least 0.6 meters and a width of about 30 cm;
installation of formwork to lift the tape above the soil level to the timber frame of the veranda;
filling the bottom of the trench with sand and crushed stone;
production and installation of a reinforcing frame made of steel rods;
preparing a sufficient volume of concrete solution, pouring the tape to the upper edge of the formwork;
waterproofing cured tape using ready-made compounds;
backfilling the trench with soil.

As can be seen from the description of the process, the technology for installing a strip foundation under a wooden terrace is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming process, requiring higher qualifications than when installing a columnar foundation. In case of improper construction or high soil mobility, the tape can tear and bend, which will certainly affect the entire structure.

Stage two - construction of the building frame

The structure frame is installed on the finished foundation. A wooden deck can be made quickly, even if done alone. For work you will need construction timber with a cross section of 150x150 and 100x100 mm. The first beam will fit on the lower frame - the base of the veranda floor, the second - on the racks and supports for the railings.

Laying the bottom trim

We lay the timber with a section of 150x150 on a foundation for the terrace pre-lined with roofing felt. If the dimensions exceed 6 meters - the standard length of lumber in our country - you will have to splice the strapping elements. The technology for corner and longitudinal connection of timber is as follows:

Select the most even, undisturbed lumber.
At the ends, mark cuts for half the thickness of the timber. The length of the future groove is in our case 150 mm.
Saw the timber along the markings using a hand or mechanical tool - a hacksaw, circular saw or chain saw.
Connect the parts groove to groove at an angle or lengthwise.
Additionally strengthen the connection by driving in 2-3 nails No. 150.

To avoid possible displacement of the terrace frame relative to the base (this should be thought about at the stage of foundation construction), several scraps of steel reinforcement with a diameter of 8 or 10 mm and a free end length of 200-250 mm are left at the top of the pillars or tape. Before laying the strapping, holes of larger diameter are drilled at the exit points of the steel rods, and the timber is laid on the pins, which are then bent flush.

After completing the timber lining of the terrace floor around the perimeter, lay several transverse beams of the same section in the same way, installing them in pre-marked and cut grooves in increments of about 1 meter, fastening them with long nails.

Installing racks

To support the roof of a wooden veranda, it is necessary to install several vertical bars at the outer corners and along the long side parallel to the wall of the house. The length of which is chosen in such a way that the height of the terrace roof from the floor is at least 2 meters, and the slope of the roof from the main building is maintained.

Connection diagram of harness and racks

If the terrace framing timber is allowed not to be planed, then the racks must be pre-planed with an electric planer. This will give them a more aesthetic appearance and will simplify further finishing and processing of the veranda. The racks should be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws using reinforced steel corners. In the upper part, the ends of the beams are attached to the terrace frame, which is a frame element that serves to increase the strength of the veranda structure.

It is better to make the top trim from planed timber 100x100. Assembly is carried out on the ground in detail, after which it is installed on the ends of the racks and attached to them. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the vertical parts are perpendicular in two planes. To do this, use a plumb line or a building level.

Stage three - installation of the terrace floor

The step-by-step process of installing a wooden terrace continues with the manufacture of the extension floor. Particular attention should be paid to the correct selection of material; these are operating conditions associated with constant exposure to moisture and sudden temperature changes.

A standard pine or spruce floorboard is the worst thing you can choose for a veranda. If you decide to use it, you must treat the lumber twice with antiseptic compounds that protect the wood from rotting and damage by various microorganisms. Pay special attention to processing the boards from the end.

The best choice for the veranda floor is larch flooring. Its advantages:

resistant to moisture and damage by fungi, mold, insects;
has a beautiful woody structure;
lends itself well to additional treatment with protective and decorative compounds.

Instead of larch, artificial flooring material – decking – is often used for outdoor terraces.

To enhance the decorative properties of the entire product, the flooring can be laid not only traditionally along one side of the terrace, but also at an angle to them. With this method, the consumption of floorboards on the veranda will increase by 20 percent, but it is worth it. They are also carried out from the center along diagonals, which requires making precise corner cuts, which can be made on a miter circular saw.

Stage 4 - roof installation

A high-quality roof will help protect visitors to the veranda and the floor covering from rain and the heat of the sun. Its frame is made of wood, using a vertical terrace frame and a horizontal base beam fixed to the wall of the house. When constructing the veranda roof, it is necessary to provide a slope relative to the horizon of at least 15-20 o in order to avoid the accumulation of large masses of snow.

As roofing materials for terraces, both traditional metal sheets or soft roofing and less common glass or colored cellular polycarbonate are used. Thanks to the use of the latter, the roof of the veranda can have a radius or dome shape. Of course, this will require the manufacture of a more complex rafter system, but it will give the terrace a unique appearance.

Stage 5 - installation of railings, finishing

Wooden railings will help limit the internal space of the veranda and protect visitors from falling. They are made from profiled metal or planed timber. Balusters will add zest to the exterior interior.

Having completed the installation of the fence, the wood should be treated with stains, stains or oil-based paints, in other words, protected and prepared for use.

In this article we examined the issue of building a veranda, as it turned out it is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and step-by-step algorithm.

Owners of private houses and summer cottages strive to make their properties as comfortable as possible for relaxation. Terraces are designed for this purpose, allowing you to enjoy fresh air and a view of the garden in comfortable conditions. If such a recreation area is not provided at the design stage of the house, it can always be created later. Building a terrace with your own hands is not an easy process, but if you have step-by-step instructions, any owner can handle it.

What is a terrace and its types

In manuals on the construction of residential buildings, a terrace is a flooring that is raised above the ground level and has a supporting base. In dictionaries it is characterized as a summer building without walls, which can be with or without a roof.

Often a terrace is confused with a veranda and they do not understand the difference between these two structures. The first thing you need to pay attention to when understanding this issue is the presence of a common foundation with the building. The terrace can be built next to the house or at a distance from it: near a pond, above the river bank, anywhere on the site. The veranda always has common structural elements with the building: walls or foundation.

Several types of terraces have been invented and classified, each of which has its own advantages. A variety of design solutions for recreation areas allows you to choose the best option for a specific situation.

Types of terraces by type of construction

Terraces are classified according to two main criteria:

degree of protection from the environment;
location.

In accordance with the first criterion, three types of structures are distinguished: open, semi-open and closed.

Open

The simplest design, protected only from precipitation. It is a platform raised above ground level on which supports are located that support a canopy or roof. The interior space of such a terrace is accessible to all winds. If it is attached to the house, it has a common wall with it.

Open terraces are built in quiet, sunny places; they are great for areas near the pool, and it is pleasant and safe to walk barefoot on the decking floor.

Half-open

The terrace is a little more complex in its design. It differs from the open one by the presence of 1 to 3 walls. They can be completely or partially continuous. Railings with balusters are installed along the perimeter or on 1–2 sides. A characteristic feature of semi-open terraces is one solid wall that protects the seating area from the wind. Most often this element of the structure is the wall of the house.

Ideal as an extension to a bathhouse, used for sunbathing

Closed

The terrace is maximally protected from wind and precipitation. It can fully be called a veranda if it has a common foundation or walls with the house. Most often, panoramic glazing is installed in such recreation areas, allowing you to enjoy nature in the most comfortable conditions. Enclosed terraces always provide access to fresh air. For this purpose, sliding doors, opening windows, hatches in the roof or canopy are installed.

You can relax on the closed terrace even in winter or arrange a mini-greenhouse

Types of terraces by location

An important classification feature of terraces is location. The complex of construction work and the choice of materials for the construction of the building depend on it.

Ground

The floor of such a terrace is not wooden flooring, but a base made of mineral or synthetic, non-hygroscopic materials. The middle part of the structure (between the floor and the roof) can be open, semi-open or closed. This is an expensive construction, which is its main disadvantage. To reduce construction costs, it is recommended to raise the floor above ground level by no more than 4–5 cm. Otherwise, ground terraces have many advantages:

easy to use;
provide ample opportunities for design of internal and external space;
aesthetically attractive.

built on a sand and gravel “cushion” that compensates for seasonal soil movements caused by the processes of freezing and thawing;
paving is done with paving slabs or porcelain stoneware;
a slope is formed around the perimeter for water drainage;
for the same purpose, the floor has a slope of 2–3°;
There are no curbs for structures of this type.

A ground terrace is quickly installed and inexpensive

Ground

Above-ground terraces are otherwise called “ground-adjacent”. They are fundamentally different from soil-type structures. In the case of above-ground flooring, it is located a short distance from the ground and is a flooring made of wood or other materials. Terraces of this type are built anywhere on the site. Unlike ground ones, they do not require a significant amount of excavation work and are easier and faster to construct.

Flaws:

lack of high-quality ventilation of the space under the flooring, which leads to gradual dampening of the materials from which it is made;
the impossibility of installing a canopy or roof if there is no support for them nearby (the walls of the house). Terraces located away from buildings are protected from precipitation by umbrella-type structures or canopies, the supports of which are located outside the decking.

Construction highlights:

the soil is compacted to form a slight slope to drain rainwater;
a mandatory design element is drainage, which ensures the durability of the materials from which the flooring is made;
on moving soils, a thin concrete slab is poured under the drainage layer;
Installation of flooring joists is possible on support posts, which will improve the situation with ventilation of the space under the floor.

Under the finishing of the flooring, voids must be made for natural air circulation - this will prevent rotting of the joists and extend the life of the structure

Exalted

The most popular type of terraces. Structures of this type are erected at a distance of 15–40 cm from the ground level. The base is a gravel-sand “pillow” and supports in the form of columns. It is possible to install a shallow strip foundation. Unlike the two previous types of terraces (ground and dirt), the floor is not a flooring, but a power frame, sheathed on the outside with finishing material. Elevated structures have no disadvantages.

Advantages:

the possibility of installing a roof or canopy regardless of whether the terrace is attached to the house or located at a distance from it;
there is no need to carry out a large amount of excavation work;
choice of open, semi-open or closed terrace design.

Construction highlights:

the supports are installed on a stable base: a concrete “pillow”;
it is possible to use screw piles;
When installing a strip foundation, it is necessary to provide vents to ensure ventilation of the space under the floor.

Elevated terraces are the best option for difficult terrain or placement near a body of water

Overhanging

The most complex structures in terms of design and construction. Installation of such terraces is carried out only by specialists with experience in performing this type of work. There are no standard diagrams and calculations for overhanging terraces. Each structure is built according to an individual project. The main and only drawback of overhanging terraces is their high cost.

Advantages:

provide a spectacular “floating” view of the landscape;
are built using the latest technologies, which guarantees the strength and durability of structures;
safe;
convenient to use.

Overhanging terraces are often found in mountain resort areas, in areas with a significant slope

What to build a terrace from

A wide selection of building materials allows you to build a terrace for any budget. Specialized products are also sold, such as decking boards made of Siberian larch. This material is treated with impregnations that increase moisture resistance and is suitable for open-type structures.

Base and floor

The base of the attached terrace must be of such a height that the flooring with the facing material (if any) is 2–3 cm below the floor level of the living premises. This small difference will prevent rainwater and melted snow from entering the house. This requirement does not apply to free-standing structures.

There are several types of terrace base:

screw piles;
concrete tape;
pillars made of brick or concrete.

The first option is most successful when the terrain of the area where the terrace will be located is difficult. Screw piles are screwed to the required depth so that the heads are in the same horizontal plane. If necessary, the trunks of metal supports are trimmed using a grinder. Piles with a diameter of 10.8 cm and a blade cross-section of 30 cm are suitable as a foundation for the terrace. Supports are installed every 200 cm along the length of the building and every 150 cm along its width.

When installing supports of any type, it is necessary to form a shock-absorbing “cushion” consisting of a 5–10 cm layer of sand and 10–15 cm of medium-fraction crushed stone (20x40 mm). Each layer is compacted, while the sand is watered.

cement M400;
gravel or crushed stone;
sifted quarry sand (river sand is not used to prepare the solution).

The maximum distance between the lags is 40 cm, then the finishing coating will not bend and will withstand all weight loads

Frame

The design of the terrace frame consists of three main elements:

strapping, which is laid on supports;
flooring, which is the floor of the building;
supports to support a roof or canopy.

The lower trim is made of timber with a section of 100x100 or 150x150 mm. The larger the terrace, the stronger the timber needed. The wood must be coated with 1–2 layers of a solution that prevents rotting and increases moisture resistance. The optimal choice is fire-bioprotective compounds:

"Senezh Ognebio";
"Senezh Ognebio PROF";
Neomid 450;
Pirilax.

Roof supports can be wooden (timber) or metal (profiled or round pipes). The metal is coated with a layer of anti-corrosion protection: special solutions or moisture-resistant paints. To ensure stability of the supports, the top trim is made of wood or metal products, in accordance with the design of the terrace.

The frame design also includes crossbars installed between the supports of the upper frame. They are designed to hold the canopy and prevent sagging.

Connecting and fastening elements required:

metal perforated corners and plates;
studs or brackets for fixing the bottom trim to the base (pillars or concrete strip);
screws and nails.

All wooden structural elements must be impregnated with antiseptics or coated with varnish for exterior use or weather-resistant paint

Canopy

The aesthetic appeal of the terrace largely depends on what and how the canopy is built. This structural element performs not only a decorative role: it protects the interior space from precipitation. The following materials are used to build a canopy:

polycarbonate;
roofing, similar to those with which the roof is lined (this technique is effective when constructing terraces attached to the house);
boards, sanded and treated with fire-bioprotection;
high strength glass.

There are two possible canopy design options:

continuous, consisting of several canvases or sections of material forming a monolith;
sliding

The second option is distinguished by a wide variety of design solutions. The most convenient to use are sliding canopies controlled using automation. These are expensive structures, the design and installation of which are carried out by specialists.

A closed terrace canopy can be insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

To install a lightweight canopy made of rolled material, heavy supports are not needed

Partitions

The designs of semi-open and closed terraces involve the installation of partitions located along one or more walls of the building. These can be railings with balusters, jibs or solid panels.

Only durable materials are suitable for the construction of partitions: wood or metal. Railings with balusters can be forged, painted in any color you like. Wooden carvings are also popular.

Suitable for constructing solid partitions:

boards;
moisture-resistant plywood;
flat slate;
polycarbonate;
sandwich panels.

The choice of material depends on the type of terrace and its design.

The openwork partition makes the terrace lighter and more elegant, highlights and refreshes the interior

How to build a terrace with your own hands

Having familiarized yourself with information about all the nuances of choosing materials and technologies for constructing terraces of various types, each owner will be able to make a durable and aesthetically attractive extension to the house or a free-standing structure.

Drawings and projects

When choosing a terrace project, the first thing to consider is its size. Based on reviews from owners of houses with such extensions, several conclusions can be drawn:

a terrace with a length of 250 cm is optimal for 3-4 people on it at the same time and a minimum amount of small-sized furniture;
comfortable length - 300–350 cm.

When choosing the size of an extension, you can focus on the standard dimensions of terraces in Europe and the USA:

minimum width - 181 cm;
recommended length - 304 cm;
the flooring is 2.5–4 cm below the floor level in the house.

The easiest way is to build a terrace, which is planned at the design stage of the house. The attached documentation will indicate the necessary materials, their dimensions, methods of connection and fastening.

The terrace, designed together with the house, will form a single ensemble with the main building

When designing a terrace yourself, follow several recommendations:

the drawing is drawn up on graph paper on a scale of 1:20;
measurements of the territory are carried out using a tape measure, level or range finder;
take into account the need to slope the flooring in the direction from the wall of the house;
indicate the dimensions of each structural element.

An open terrace can be built on any side of the building. The floor is made of dirt or in the form of flooring.

Using special design applications, you can create a three-dimensional model of the future terrace on your computer.

A closed terrace requires a reinforced, durable frame with the possibility of insulation.

For a closed terrace it is necessary to provide a doorway

To install a free-standing terrace, you can take as a basis one of the simplest projects in terms of design and construction.

A separate terrace in the garden or by the pool will become a favorite relaxation spot for the whole family

Having built a semi-open terrace with a canopy for the summer, you can, if desired, cover it with walls made of boards or other available materials

Wooden with canopy

The most popular way of arranging recreation areas is the construction of wooden terraces. They are durable, easy to install and beautiful in appearance.

To build a wooden terrace you will need:

bricks for support posts;
timber 100x100 or 150–150 (for the frame);
boards or OSB sheets 12–16 mm thick (for flooring);
corrugated sheet or other roofing material (for a canopy);
wooden bars for railings;
balusters;
fire-bioprotective solution;
cement M400 and sand for preparing a binder for laying bricks.

Semi-open wooden terraces built from logs are presentable. A similar effect can be achieved by building solid walls from OSB or boards and covering them with a blockhouse.

Tools needed:

wood hacksaw;
a circular saw;
screwdriver or drill;
container for preparing cement-sand mortar;
paint brush.

A surface planer is used to calibrate lumber.

Preparing the base and floor

Mark the area, noting the location of each column. The optimal distance between them is 150–200 cm.
Dig holes 30–40 cm deep.
Compact the bottom of the hole.
Pour 5–10 cm of sand onto the bottom, spill it with water and compact it.
Pour a 10–15 cm layer of gravel. They compact it.
The first row of bricks is laid on the cement-sand mortar.
Continue laying until the pillars of the required height are built.
Lay the bottom trim made of timber on the pillars. The elements are connected to each other using the tongue-and-groove method or using metal corners. When building attached terraces, the frame is not attached to the wall of the house. This will prevent the deck from skewing during shrinkage of the building. Terraces connected to the building are installed only if there is a single foundation for the house and the extension.
Installation of logs.
Cover the bottom trim with the selected material: OSB or boards.

The basis for the logs are concrete point support blocks; they are inexpensive and easy to install

Construction of the frame

The frame of the terrace is a complex of vertical wooden beams, top frame made of timber and cross beams.

Install corner supports for the canopy.
They are connected to the wall of the house, taking into account the required roof slope angle: at least 4–5°.
Install intermediate supports. They are connected to each other by a horizontally laid beam of the upper trim.
If the terrace is semi-open, install railings and balusters.

The pitched roof of the wooden terrace at an angle will ensure natural drainage of water from the canopy

Canopy

The installation of a canopy involves mounting the selected material onto a frame. The canvases are laid starting from one of the sides of the structure from its lower part. The need for overhangs 4–5 cm wide is taken into account. Sheets of roofing material are fixed with self-tapping screws with a press washer. At the final stage, a gutter is installed.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a strong and durable material with good light transmittance. It is perfect for installing a canopy over the terrace. Those who have already made a similar design are advised to buy colored polycarbonate rather than transparent, as it better protects the interior of the extension from the hot rays of the sun.

Required materials and tools

An example of calculating materials for a terrace measuring 615x350 cm:

timber 200x150x350 mm for mounting the frame - 11 pcs.;
timber 100x100x350 mm - 18 pcs.;
logs 50x100x350 mm - 8 pcs.;
moisture-resistant plywood 1220x2440 mm for flooring - 22–25 sheets;
linoleum for flooring;
slats 50x50 cm for sheathing the canopy;
6 mm thick cellular polycarbonate for a canopy;
OSB 9 mm thick for wall construction.

Tools needed:

a circular saw;
screwdriver;
hacksaw;
hammer;
paint brush.

Preparing the base and floor

A polycarbonate terrace can be built on a columnar, slab or strip foundation. The choice of foundation type depends on the expected weight of the future building. Polycarbonate is a lightweight material and will not put a significant load on the structure. Therefore, the base can be made adjacent to the ground.

Stages of ground foundation construction:

They mark the site and find the corner points of the future building.
Level the soil and form a slope to drain water. Compact the soil with a vibrating plate.
Make a sandy layer 7–10 cm thick and pour it with water from a hose. Level taking into account the slope and compact.
In a similar way, a gravel “pillow” 7–15 cm thick is formed.
Every 120–150 cm, longitudinal depressions (3–5 cm deep) are made in the gravel layer for drainage.
The logs are laid in increments of 150–200 cm.
The flooring is formed from boards, plywood or OSB.

Construction of the frame

A lightweight polycarbonate terrace does not require powerful supports. Therefore, the optimal choice would be a beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm. Vertical supports are installed on the flooring and connected by crossbars of the upper trim. To make the frame more stable, you can install jibs on the walls, which will simultaneously serve as decorative elements of the structure.

The frame for the polycarbonate terrace is made lighter; it is advisable to take into account the dimensions of standard sheets of material

Canopy and walls

The width of the polycarbonate sheet is 210 cm, length - 300 and 600 cm. It is important to lay the sheets vertically, in the direction of water flow. To install a canopy made of this material, the following list of works is sequentially performed:

The blades are cut using a circular or band saw or jigsaw.
lay the first sheet on the selected side of the canopy, with the side of the polycarbonate protected from UV rays facing up, towards the sun.
Fasten the canvas using self-tapping screws with thermal washers so that the fasteners fit strictly vertically (pitch 60–70 mm).
Install the remaining polycarbonate sheets.
The end cuts are covered with special strips.

If the terrace project involves the construction of walls, the most suitable material is chosen for their construction: boards, OSB, plywood.

Polycarbonate is available in a wide range of shades, which gives designers the opportunity to create different color schemes

Arrangement and decor

The most impressive in appearance and comfortable for relaxation are closed terraces with panoramic glazing. They have all the advantages of open structures (full view of the landscape, good lighting) and at the same time provide reliable protection from wind and precipitation.

The veranda allows you to profitably expand the useful space of a residential building. In a properly constructed and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and cold seasons.

It is best to build the extension so that it covers the entrance door to the main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda on any desired side of the already finished main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be separated from the main building and you will have to enter it from across the street.

The dimensions of the extension are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a veranda measuring 3x4 m is enough. It is also important to take into account the general view from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely add verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.

Important note! Regardless of the chosen dimensions and the overall features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project on hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.

Take your project to your local architectural department. Department employees will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that on average it takes about 2-3 months to review and approve a project, so it is best to resolve this issue in the winter, before the start of the construction season.

Construction site marking

We are starting to prepare our construction site.

First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil from the perimeter of the future building and take it to the flower beds, vegetable garden or other place.

Second step. Align the resulting depression.

Third step. We carry out the markings. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull a rope between the pins. We will use it to guide us in the process of arranging the foundation.

Making the foundation

Most often, verandas are built on columnar or strip type foundations. The depth of the support is assumed to be equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support to the foundation of the extension, because these structures will have widely varying weights. Consequently, the degree of their shrinkage will also vary. To prevent a heavy house from dragging down a relatively light extension, the latter must be built on a separate foundation. To do this, leave approximately a 3-4 cm gap between the foundations.

Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the soil characteristics in your region and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.

Tape base

A strip-type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, keep the thickness at 70-80 cm.

First step. We dig a trench around the perimeter of the walls of the extension.

Second step. We level the bottom and walls of the trench using wooden boards or panels to the height of the future concrete support.

Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand and the same layer of crushed stone, making sure to compact each ball of backfill.

Fourth step. We lay a reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. This way the base will be as strong as possible.

Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of crushed stone and water.

Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In hot weather, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.

Columnar base

Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. It is recommended to make holes for posts with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate posts for any size veranda. We maintain the distance between supports within 0.8-1 m.

First step. We dig holes in the places where the pillars will be poured. The most convenient way to do this is with a drill.

Second step. We fill the bottom of each depression with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour approximately 10 cm of crushed stone. We compact each layer.

Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.

Fourth step. We coat the finished concrete supports with bitumen.

Fifth step. We fill the gaps between the ground and the supports with sand.

Sixth step. We erect the above-ground part of the pillars from brick. We make the height equal to the height of the foundation of the main house.

Making a subfloor

The floor can be wooden or concrete. For example, in a frame veranda made of wooden beams, a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into a brick extension.

We make a wooden subfloor like this:

We fix the beam of the lower trim on the foundation. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at the places of their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
We attach wooden logs to the bottom trim. We keep the step at 50 cm - this way the floor will definitely not fall through. We use the connection option described above;
fill the space between the joists with expanded clay;
We make the flooring from unedged boards or plywood about 50 mm thick. We attach the flooring elements to the joists with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We make a concrete screed like this:

fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
pour a layer on top;
lay the reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a mesh of rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is sufficient;
pour concrete.

Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of a level.

Building a wooden veranda

Basic properties of the material

Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other low-cost and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.

Almost anyone can handle the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda. You just need to properly mount the frame posts and cover them with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.

The undeniable advantages of wood are its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the construction of expensive and difficult to construct foundations.

The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a barbecue in such an extension or in the immediate vicinity of it is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and details. Therefore, it is better to move the source of fire somewhere further outside the wooden veranda.

Another significant disadvantage of wood is its poor tolerance to high humidity, which is why the material requires serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.

Construction order

To build the frame, we use high-quality wooden beams with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. We already have the bottom trim and subfloor, so we continue to work, adhering to the instructions below.

First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower trim for installing vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.

Second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements we use staples and screws or nails.

Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. Therefore, we make the vertical beam installed at the bottom point of the slope 50 cm below the opposite posts.

Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks no questions will arise - we perform the connections in exactly the same way as in the previous stages.

When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the pillars longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low posts at the height of the low posts. We fasten the crossbars to the high posts using pre-created samples and nails.

Fourth step. The top trim is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam to all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beams with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the rafter system.

Fifth step. We install in increments of 50 cm. For this we use a wooden beam with a section of 100x200 mm. We connect structural elements using any of the previously discussed methods.

Sixth step. We cover the frame. Lining is perfect for interior cladding, and siding or other material for exterior cladding. We lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation between the external and internal cladding materials. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse slats. The finishing material is also attached to them. When covering, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.

Prices for various types of timber

Brick verandas

Basic information about building materials

Brick is excellent for constructing permanent verandas. A building made from this material will be cool in the summer and, provided the insulation is properly insulated, warm in the winter. Brickwork is durable, fireproof and easy to maintain.

The main disadvantage of a brick building is its heavy weight. Such structures are built exclusively on , which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.

The procedure for constructing a veranda

The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is level and does not require any additional preparatory measures. Let's start laying out the walls.

We first select the appropriate type of masonry. The simplest options, perfect for constructing a veranda yourself, are as follows:

spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
bonded masonry. Wall thickness – 250 mm;
chain laying. Allows you to obtain walls with a thickness of 380 mm.

First step. We attach a mooring cord to two opposite ends of the foundation with a tie. It should run along the edge of the base.

Second step. We place the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. To fasten building elements we use standard cement mortar.

Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the required height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.

Important! will be inclined, so we make the wall at the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.

Having laid out the last row of walls, we arrange an armored belt. To do this, we fix formwork about 70 mm high on each wall along the upper surface of the walls, place anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.

We let the concrete harden, and then attach a strapping of wooden beams with a section of 10x10 cm to the anchor bolts. The further procedure for arranging the rafter system remains similar to the situation with

If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows with thermal insulation material. With single masonry, insulation, moisture insulation and interior finishing are carried out by analogy with a wooden veranda. Exterior decoration is at your discretion. You can simply carefully unstitch the seams and call it a day.

Masonry size	Length, L	Width, V	Height, N	Number of bricks excluding thickness mortar joint, PC.	Number of bricks taking into account thickness mortar joint 10 mm, PC.
1 m3 single brick masonry	250	120	65	512	394
1 m3 thickened brick masonry	250	120	88	378	302
	250	120	65	61	51
1 sq. m of masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 120 mm)	250	120	88	45	39
1 sq. m of masonry in one brick (masonry thickness 250 mm)	250	120	65	128	102
	250	120	65	189	153
1 sq. m of masonry of one and a half bricks (masonry thickness 380 mm)	250	120	88	140	117
	250	120	65	256	204
1 sq. m of masonry in two bricks (masonry thickness 510 mm)	250	120	88	190	156
	250	250	65	317	255
1 sq. m of masonry in two and a half bricks (masonry thickness 640 mm)	250	250	88	235	195

Prices for construction and facing bricks

Construction and facing bricks

Making a veranda roof

And the rafters are installed. All that remains is to make the sheathing, install the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.

The lathing can be solid (for rolled materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make continuous sheathing from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the sparse sheathing beams at a pitch recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the sheathing to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

We fill the cells between the sheathing beams with mineral wool for thermal insulation. We lay a waterproofing film on top and attach it to the sheathing using a stapler with staples. In the case of arranging a continuous sheathing, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We secure the insulation boards using transverse slats, nailing them to the sheathing.

Finally, all that remains is to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. For the rest, we focus on our preferences and available budget.

Finishing the floor

If the subfloor is wooden, we lay insulation in the space between them and fill the flooring from edged boards to the joists. We paint and varnish the boards.

You can also install a boardwalk on top of the concrete screed, similar to the previous method, or lay another material of your choice, for example, linoleum.

Finally, all that remains is the doors, furnishing at your discretion and connecting lighting if necessary. We won't pull the wiring. It is enough to remove the extension cord from the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.

Good luck!

Video - DIY veranda

Adding a veranda to the house is quite doable with your own hands. The simplest option is open, when the veranda combines the functions of a porch. If a warm room is required, it is necessary to properly sheathe the veranda with boards and lay insulation.

Choosing a foundation

Depending on the weight of the extension, the type of soil and financial capabilities, the optimal type of foundation is chosen. But in any case, the foundations of the building and the veranda should not touch - an elastic gasket - mineral wool or polystyrene foam with mandatory waterproofing - is placed between them in a 10-15 centimeter gap. So, due to the difference in the weight of buildings during spring heaving, the foundations will not deform.

A columnar foundation for a veranda to a house is suitable for lightweight extensions and soils that do not require special preparation.

1. Mark the space for the pillars. The corner supports are marked first; if the distance between them is more than 1.5 meters, intermediate posts should be installed every half meter. Inside the perimeter, the supports are arranged in squares according to the same principle.

2. Holes are dug. Their depth should be below the soil freezing line or equal to the main foundation. 10 cm of sand and the same amount of gravel are poured onto the bottom, formwork is installed and everything is filled with concrete. The surface must be leveled.

3. After the concrete has completely hardened, pillars are erected from bricks. Their height should be lower than the main foundation to place a veranda canopy under the roof of the house.

Strip foundation

A warm veranda to the house, especially if the walls are planned to be brick, should be built on a strip or pile foundation. The principle of pouring it is the same, it just requires more time and materials.

The bottom of the trenches is leveled and compacted tightly, a sand and gravel cushion is placed on top and formwork is organized.

Waterproofing is installed, everything is poured with concrete and leveled. Considering that the terrace is not a permanent structure, it is not necessary to reinforce the foundation for it.

For sandy and heaving-prone soils, it is best to use a foundation on piles for heavy insulated verandas. Using screw piles, they can be screwed into the ground even without the use of special equipment.

To do this, metal piles are screwed into pre-marked places, in the upper part of which holes can be made and rods-levers can be inserted to facilitate screwing. After deepening to the required depth, the top of the piles is cut off, and they themselves are filled with concrete.

For a warm terrace with your own hands, it is better to choose simple drawings, otherwise, without the necessary skills, a complex structure cannot be built correctly. A rectangular veranda with a pitched roof is the best option.

The bottom trim is made double and laid on the foundation and connected “half-tree” in the corners. Vertical posts are attached to the bottom frame, and their height is selected depending on the location - near the wall of the house they are higher to ensure the slope of the canopy. After this, the top trim is made and the crossbars for the window frames are attached.

A purlin is attached to the wall of the house - a horizontal beam on which the roof of the veranda will rest. The rafters are laid with one end on the purlin, and the other on the opposite side of the top trim. The lathing is attached horizontally across the rafters.

For soft tiles, plywood is laid on the sheathing, and metal tiles can be attached directly to the sheathing. It is important not to forget about hydro- and thermal insulation if the extension is planned to be warm.

How to make a veranda, correctly mount the frame and attach the mounting board is explained very clearly in the video: