Lamps LED ceiling drivers repair. How to repair an LED lamp with your own hands

Light sources of this category are in great demand on the modern market. They consume a small amount of energy, are durable and resistant to various external influences. However, any technical device can fail during operation. It is also impossible to exclude a manufacturing defect, which may appear after the end of the official warranty period. Qualified DIY repair of LED lamps will help eliminate the problem without extra costs. This article provides technologies for restoring the functionality of devices at home with step-by-step instructions and explanations.

Read in the article:

Operating principle and design of a 220 V LED lamp

It should be immediately noted that lamps with such LEDs (filament) cannot be repaired. In them, the flask is filled with an inert gas, and the manufacturers keep the exact composition secret. High-quality reproduction of industrial technology at home is impossible.

All of them are created from standard inexpensive LEDs, which can be purchased without unnecessary difficulties. Standard tools are suitable for checking and performing work operations. The simplest special devices for dismantling and subsequent assembly can be made with your own hands.

It makes no sense to study physical processes in detail. It is enough to note that in this case the light source is a specialized semiconductor device. It emits light when a constant voltage of several volts is applied at a relatively low current. This means that rectification and limitation of the corresponding electrical parameters will be required. The presence of a p-n junction indicates the possibility of clarifying the performance using a standard test of a conventional diode.

A driver is an electronic circuit that rectifies the voltage and limits the current to the nominal value. The required number of LEDs is installed on a substrate with a heat sink to remove heat. The diffuser eliminates uneven light flux and excessive brightness of individual emitting elements.

In this simplest 220V LED lamp driver circuit, capacitor C1, together with resistor R1, reduces the voltage to the desired value. It is determined by the number of LEDs connected in series. On each of them the voltage drop is about 3 V (the exact value is indicated in the technical data sheet of the device). After the diode bridge, the remaining ripples are smoothed out by capacitor C2. Resistors R3, R4 limit the starting current when connected to the power supply. When the lamp turns off, the parallel capacitor through R2 quickly discharges.

The main causes of failure of LED lamps

The circuit under consideration uses the simplest electronic components that rarely fail. According to statistics, the electrolytic smoothing capacitor is most often damaged. Problems arise if parts are used “sparingly” without a reserve for the voltage rating.

There are also insufficient quality solder connections. They are destroyed after several on/off cycles as a result of thermal expansion/contraction. Repair of LED lamps may be needed more often if they are installed in a room with high humidity. In lamps of this type there are no contact groups, which are damaged when a film of oxides forms. Therefore, here, too, the cause of failure will be defective soldering.

Sometimes heat removal is poorly organized. Under such conditions, LEDs are not able to perform their functions for a long time. It is unacceptable if a plastic fake is installed instead of a metal radiator. It makes sense to repair such products only with complete replacement of unusable parts of the structure. In case of incompetent assembly, they “save” thermal paste or do not use it at all. In this case, even a high-quality aluminum radiator will not perform its functions with maximum efficiency.

High-quality DIY repair of LED lamps

To eliminate doubts, check 220 V directly in the cartridge. To do this, use a multimeter, a phase probe (a screwdriver with a built-in phase indicator), or screw in another working lamp.

Illustration	How to repair an LED lamp with your own hands: step-by-step instructions with comments
	The easiest way is when you have spare SMD LEDs of the required size. This example considers a more complex technological process. Here one of the old devices is disassembled to remove the necessary part.
	It is not difficult to disassemble such a light bulb. The diffuser can be removed with a rotational motion, without any extra effort.
	The photo shows a blackened faulty LED. These devices are installed in series, so the failure of one element breaks the corresponding electrical circuit.
	The master often repairs LED lamps, so he assembled a special design. He attached a cartridge and a key switch to a wooden plank for checking and conveniently fixing the device when performing work operations.
	To remove the LEDs, the donor board is secured in the alligator clip of a special “third hand” device. It is heated from below with a construction hairdryer. When the solder melts, remove the parts with tweezers and set them aside. It is more convenient and faster compared to using a soldering iron.
	The burnt element is dismantled in the same way. Before replacing, pay attention to the correspondence of the contact groups (one of them is larger). Using a similar method, using tweezers and a hair dryer, a new LED is installed.
	Next, the board is placed on a dielectric soft pad for testing. Use a regular multimeter. In the “continuity” mode, its probes have a constant voltage of 3 V. The working LED lights up.
	This procedure must be performed with the correct connection of the contacts, observing the polarity. An experienced technician recommends that when repairing an LED lamp, you check adjacent parts that may be damaged by too long high-temperature exposure.
	The board is installed in place. For rigid fixation, use a heat-resistant sealant. Solder the power wires.
	Mount the diffuser. Check the functionality of the lamp.

For your information! The following sections of the article describe how to disassemble other types of LED light bulbs. Below are guidelines for properly diagnosing and solving complex problems.

How to disassemble an LED lamp and identify faults

In the previous section, the simplest situation was considered. But manufacturers use different types of connections, which in practice makes dismantling much more difficult. If the diffuser cannot be removed by hand, it can be pryed off with a knife. In extreme cases, you will have to make a hole directly in the joint to insert the tip of the tool.

Some adhesives are so strong that disassembly is impossible. In such situations, cut the lamp along the seam and then apply sealant during the assembly process. Irregularities on the outside are smoothed out with fine sandpaper.

After this operation, access to the dimmer is freed. Checking this part begins with a visual inspection. If there are no blackened parts or broken wires, use a multimeter to check individual elements sequentially.

In this photo, arrows indicate separate power and control units. LEDs (single or group) are connected to them, which are replaced if necessary.

Replacing LEDs during DIY repair of a 220 V LED lamp

In any direction of the hot air jet, overheating of several radio components is possible, which will increase the total cost of repairing the LED lamp. Similar difficulties arise when the board is rigidly mounted on a metal radiator.

A similar device for repairing lamps can be made in accordance with the mounting dimensions of a certain LED model and the diameter of the soldering iron tip.

For your information! You can dismantle the faulty part without an attachment. To do this, remove the light filter with a needle and place a little solder in the recess. Next, the leads are heated through this place to the desired temperature. With this technique, there will be minimal thermal impact on adjacent board elements.

Eliminating the main causes of blinking LED lamps

Such a defect (marked by an arrow) is accompanied by the appearance of a gap with oxides. It is quite possible that the electrical contact may be interrupted. It is difficult to identify a fault even with a magnifying glass. Therefore, do-it-yourself repair of LED lamps involves re-soldering all the mounting sockets. The procedure will take some time. But given the relatively low complexity of the scheme, it will not be too difficult to perform the necessary operations at home.

To clarify the need to repair an LED lamp, check the serviceability of the capacitor using the following algorithm:

Desolder and remove the part from the board. Discharge by closing the contacts with a screwdriver.
Connect the multimeter probes in resistance measurement mode, observing the polarity (plus to plus, minus to minus).
Observe the value increasing to a maximum as it charges. If “1” is immediately displayed, the device is faulty (break). Indication “0” – short circuit.

Features of complex repair of LED lamps: device, electrical circuits of modern drivers

To more accurately maintain optimal electrical parameters and additional adjustment capabilities, power supplies are created on the basis of specialized microcircuits.

If resistors are connected to the LD pin, the LED will turn on smoothly. For analog dimming (adjusting the brightness level), a variable resistor is inserted into this circuit. External control is organized by supplying a signal (rectangular pulses) to the PWMD.

In this option, repairing LED lamps with your own hands is difficult. In addition to broader knowledge in the relevant field, you will need specialized measuring equipment. The performance of the pulse-frequency modulator is checked using an oscilloscope. In standard mode, the current through the LED changes according to a sawtooth curve. The maximum and minimum values depend on the inductance in the circuit (“L”) and the oscillation frequency at the output (“Gate”). Standard methods are used to test capacitors, resistors and other elements.

Video on how to repair a 220 V LED lamp:

If it suddenly happens that your lamp stops working - don’t hesitate - call us and perhaps we’ll tell you what the problem might be.

Attention! If your lamp is still under warranty, it is better to contact the store where you purchased the lamp for warranty assistance.

Of course, the problem with the lamp may not be solved by your own efforts, but you will know exactly what to do with it. We have extensive experience working with LED technology, so there is a good chance that our advice will help you.

If we encounter a problem for the first time, we will be happy to accept the lamp for diagnostics (it is free). Bring the faulty lamp to us and we will try to identify the fault as soon as possible and, with your consent, fix it.

Before bringing the lamp to us, read the tips below - we have compiled a list of the most common problems that you can solve on your own.

1. The remote control stopped working.

Problem: the lamp does not respond to the remote control, but it turns on normally from the switch and changes modes.

We won't consider replacing the battery (although there have been cases where this advice has helped). The problem may lie either in the remote control or in the lamp itself.

The lamp contains a communication module that operates at a frequency of 2.4 GHz. When turned on for the first time, this module must be synchronized with the remote control in order to know which remote control the lamp should respond to commands from. Usually, synchronization of lamps with remote controls occurs in the store when they are checked, but if this does not happen, then you will have to synchronize the remote control yourself. To synchronize the remote control with the lamp, use the advice below. Perhaps this method will not help, then there is nothing else left to do but send the lamp for repair. We can determine what the problem is and offer replacement or repair of this part.

Possible solutions:

1.1. Synchronize the remote control.

Unfortunately, manufacturers do not pay enough attention to the instructions for their lamps. Often there are instructions in which the synchronization of the remote control with the lamp is not described correctly. Because of this, it seems that the lamp is not working properly. In fact, there is no need to panic - just try to synchronize the lamp in several ways:

If the remote control has a synchronization button (in the center of the remote control with a Wi-Fi icon), then the instructions often advise turning off the lamp, then pressing this button and holding it, turning on the lamp. After turning on, the light should blink and the remote control will work. This design does not always work.

If it doesn't work, try pressing this button after turning on the light (within 1-2 seconds after the light comes on). It is important to note here that some lamps require a short press of the button, and some require a couple of seconds. Try different options.

If this method does not help, then try holding down the ON button before or after turning it on (there may be several such buttons on the remote control). Button M1 or M2. CH1 or CH2 buttons, etc.

In any case, if synchronization is successful, the lamp will notify you by blinking.

1.2. Replace the remote control.

There have been cases when synchronization does not help, but the other remote control works fine. In this case, purchasing a new remote control may help. It is important to know the model of the lamp, since not every remote control will fit. Our store sells remote controls for different lamps. The cost of the remote control is usually no more than 500 rubles. Before purchasing, be sure to make sure that the remote control will fit your lamp. The same lamp model, but from different years of manufacture, may also have different remote controls.

1.3. Lamp repair.

If a new remote control does not help, the only option left is to repair the lamp itself. There are four options: diagnostics and soldering of loose contacts, diagnostics and replacement of a board component, diagnostics and replacement of a communication module, replacement of the entire driver with a new one.

2. The lamp does not work correctly

Problem: the lamp blinks, partially lights up, changes modes on its own, etc.

These problems are related to electronics and not everyone can solve them on their own. Here, diagnostics of the lamp is necessary to identify the malfunction. If you still have a warranty, take the lamp for warranty repairs to the store where you purchased the lamp. If the same lamp is available in a store or manufacturer, most likely they will simply exchange it for a new one. If a similar lamp is not available, the store will accept the lamp for repair and transfer it to the manufacturer, who is obliged to perform warranty repairs of the failed equipment.

The reasons for such malfunctions can be very diverse: from poor contact to failure of some components. If the light blinks, then you should look for the problem everywhere. If it lights up partially, then the problem is most likely in the LEDs. If it spontaneously changes modes, then the reason lies in the lamp driver.

Some lamps have weak points in the contacts. For example, the LED board of the A-Play lamp from Estares consists of three segments that are connected by rigid jumpers. A slight misalignment of the lamp base during installation created physical stress in the jumper contacts. As a result, over time, microcracks formed in them, which led to flickering of the lamp, partial loss of light, or even complete absence of light. Microcracks could also form due to frequent listening to loud music through the lamp speaker (due to vibrations). The ideal solution to the problem would be to replace the rigid jumpers with flexible ones at the factory during production, but, given what we have, it is recommended not to pull this lamp too much towards the ceiling. If this problem occurs, you can solder the jumper contacts yourself, contact us for soldering, or use our service for replacing rigid jumpers with flexible ones. This problem occurs rarely, so without its occurrence there is no point in doing anything.

Possible solutions:

2.1. Identify bad contact yourself.

Sometimes it is enough to remove the lamp from the ceiling and connect it to an outlet with a regular cord, and it magically starts working. The reason for this is poor contact in the circuit. Sometimes you can visually see the solder that has fallen off - in this case, many will be able to solder it back on their own. We had several cases when they arrived with a supposedly non-working lamp, but when we plugged it into our outlet, it worked perfectly. However, this did not cancel the diagnosis, since a bad contact, at best, will soon fall off completely, and at worst, it will lead to overheating and failure of the lamp components. In any case, if such a malfunction is detected, it must be promptly eliminated.

2.2. Seek help from specialists.

We can diagnose the problem and fix it as quickly as possible. Often the cause of blinking can be electrolytic capacitors that have dried out over time. Their diagnosis requires removal from the printed circuit board and testing with a capacitance meter, which is not always possible at home. Replacing SMD components also requires special equipment. We're familiar with most LED light fixture designs, so there's a good chance we'll fix your light fixture quickly and inexpensively.

3. The lamp does not turn on.

If when you turn on the lamp from the switch it does not light, then in 99% of cases the lamp driver is faulty. We will help you diagnose and repair your lamp driver. In the event of a critical malfunction (failure of a large number of components, burnout of the driver board), it is more advisable to purchase a new driver, which in any case will be cheaper than purchasing a new lamp.

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Modern, energy-efficient LED lamps are not cheap. But they last longer than usual, and consume much less electricity. It's a shame when such a device fails. We are accustomed to the fact that lamps are disposable goods that have to be thrown away after they burn out. The topic of this article is how you can bring such a lamp back to life with your own hands. Repair of LED lamps is possible! Moreover, this task can be accomplished even by a person who is not particularly knowledgeable in electrical engineering.

LED lamp significantly saves your electricity costs

LED devices significantly save energy and at the same time provide adequate lighting. A 10-watt light bulb with diodes produces the same powerful stream of light as a hundred-watt incandescent lamp. It turns out that this one cuts your costs tenfold. Moreover, such devices are durable, unless, of course, they are made in the Middle Kingdom.

To understand possible repairs, you need to understand the principle of operation of the device. Everything here is a little more complicated than in traditional Edison lamps. Each light source, a diode, consists of two semiconductors of different materials. One contains predominantly electrons, the second – ions.

Such semiconductors are called . In the early days of this technology, devices could only emit green, yellow and red light. For this reason they were used in indicators. Modern technologies make it possible to cover the entire spectrum and use warm and cold shades, in which blue or yellow-red colors predominate.

Now directly about the device of the lamp. Externally, it is not much different from a traditional light bulb. It has the same threaded base and is suitable for all types of lamps. But inside the product has a complex structure.

A short video about:

For repair work you will need a soldering iron, a set of screwdrivers, a medical scalpel or a thin knife.

How to carefully disassemble an LED lamp and identify the cause of the breakdown

So, how to fix a 220 V LED lamp? The cause of the problem cannot always be found with a simple visual inspection. In any case, you will have to spend time and effort searching for a hidden illness. How to properly disassemble an LED light bulb? The main thing in this matter is extreme caution and accuracy. Do not use excessive force or use sharp tools where you can handle them with your hands.

Disassembly algorithm:

Photo	Description of work
	The first stage is removing the dome. It is attached to the radiator using a thin layer of glue. Grab both parts with your hands and use a rotating motion to release the dome. Try not to squeeze the fragile plastic too much, as it may burst.
	After releasing the dome, you are faced with the most difficult task - separating the plate with LEDs.
	First you will have to unscrew the mounting bolts. Their heads are very small, so you will need a set of so-called precision screwdrivers.
	After removing the bolts, the aluminum plate with LEDs must be separated from the radiator. It is secured with glue, so you need to pick it up with a sharp object and carefully tear it off.
	The radiator must be disconnected from the base. This is done easily with the same rotational movements.
	To finally separate the wafer with semiconductors, you will have to unsolder the attachment points of the supply wire.
	After removing the LED board and heatsink, you will find the lamp power supply.
	To check the operation of the LED board, you will need a 12 volt power supply and two probes. They are applied to the places where the wires are soldered. If the board doesn't light up, that's the problem. Sometimes burnt out LEDs can be seen with the naked eye.
	Checking the operation of the power supply requires extreme caution! The lamp base should be screwed into the socket and connected. Afterwards, the voltage at the ends of the soldered wire is measured with a multimeter. The procedure is dangerous!

LED replacement procedure

If the problem is a faulty LED, the light bulb simply stops working. If it is, then the problem is with the power board.

After detecting an extinguished diode, you need to remove it. There are three ways to determine the health of a semiconductor:

Photo	Description of work
	Burnt-out diodes have dots or spots on the surface. In addition, you can find traces of burnout around them.
	You can try to test the diodes with a multimeter.
	You can remove questionable diodes and check their functionality with wires connected to a 12-volt power source.

To repair a lamp, it is good to have a similar donor lamp. Semiconductors are removed from it for replacement. How to replace LED:

To consolidate the completed video lesson on this topic:

Related article:

Knowing the basic ones, you can choose the best option in terms of room illumination and operating costs. We offer you to familiarize yourself with the main types of diodes, their distinctive features and installation procedures.

LED lamp driver repair

We looked at how to repair an LED lamp with your own hands if one of the semiconductors has burned out. As you can see, the task is quite simple. Now let's consider the situation if the control unit, the lamp driver, fails.

The bridge and chip for repair, as well as other spare parts, can be purchased in the largest Chinese online store.

Photo	Description of work
	Donor boards may be useful for driver repair. Don't rush to throw away old lamps.
	The bridge and the chip are removed from the board in the same way as the LEDs. Use a hair dryer to heat the surface of the board and use tweezers to easily remove the parts.
	After the parts are removed, their attachment points are treated with BGA solder paste.
	All that remains is to place the replacement parts in the vacant spaces and secure them with the same hair dryer or soldering iron with a needle tip.

This task is for those whose hands grow from the right place. If you are not confident in your abilities or have a vision problem, just order several ready-made drivers and change them as needed.

Video on how to replace the driver:

Replacing the power supply

One of the common causes of LED lamp failure is the failure of a resistor or capacitor. It is not easy to check the condition of this part; you will have to connect the lamp to the network.

Photo	Description of work
	The malfunction of the capacitor can be determined visually - it swells, as in this case.
	The swollen capacitor must be unsoldered from the board using a soldering iron.
	A new capacitor of appropriate power is fixed on the board, observing polarity.

In order to replace the resistor on a lamp, you need to know the basic data of LEDs.

Video: instructions for selecting a resistor

Article

Savings and design in lighting have brought advanced technology into almost every home. Many people are replacing conventional plinth chandeliers with economical LED products. Not everyone knows how to repair an LED lamp on their own, especially what parts it consists of inside. How to use a tool when it breaks, where to start the whole process. Let's try to understand in detail what breakdowns occur in devices and how to repair some LED chandeliers with your own hands.

Types of breakdowns and their causes

Typical breakdowns: partial or complete absence of lighting, short-term blinking or spontaneous shutdown, failure.

Causes: The temperature has reached above 50 degrees, the contact between the filament itself and the holder has broken, if the paid version is not a lamp version, the contacts on the board have peeled off.

The LED has burned out, partially or completely. Cause: Overvoltage in the network, capacitor burnt out (breakdown). Typically, failure occurs in cheap board options.

There are additional reasons leading to device failure, namely: a short circuit in the circuit, incorrect connection to the network, non-compliance with the device connection diagram during installation.

Poor soldering of circuit contacts, LEDs to the board, weak fastening of wires in the base of the lamps. Poor soldering of conductive elements (wires, busbars). Cause: Factory defect. Many LED chandeliers with remote control are repaired precisely for this reason.

Preparation for repair of LED devices

Before repairing an LED lamp, the device must be removed. You will need some tools; a thin screwdriver with a flat end, cross-shaped. If the connection was made using twists, you will need pliers with insulated handles, insulating tape and a multimeter to check the contacts. Tweezers are useful when working with small parts.

You will need a soldering iron with a thin tip and solder (it is advisable to use a special nozzle). A drill with a 2.5 mm drill can also be useful to disconnect the base part of the lamp by drilling out the fasteners. Several thin wires, 10 cm long.
Attention! It is prohibited to carry out electrical work without special protected tools!

Design of LED chandeliers and visual inspection

Chandeliers with remote control appeared not so long ago. Few people are familiar with their device. When repairing LED ceiling chandeliers, you need to know the design, just in general terms. Let's take a closer look at what it may consist of.

A simple LED chandelier consists of a housing, a controller unit or a driver. It is used as a voltage rectifier. It contains terminals, or terminal clamps, to which the mains power is connected. Then wires run from the block to the lamps. There can be from one wire, for a regular lamp, to 12 for a designer version of the device.

A more complex version of the product consists of an antenna, a control unit for the lighting itself, a voltage regulator or several
small blocks that perform automatic tuning. Raster lamps can have several drivers and different types of LED elements and lamps. From a specific type of lighting The device depends on checking and repairing components.

Why is it necessary to know or find out the design before
start repairing the LED chandelier. The reason is simple, you need to determine where the control units are located, inside the chandelier or in
the lighting element itself, the lamp. Here we need the same LED chandelier circuit.

Repairing an LED chandelier operating without a remote control is easier. There is nothing complicated in it, they are assembled according to one type: one or more diodes (a compact bridge is possible), electrolytes (capacitors), a pair of resistances (resistors), and a coil with a winding. This is the simplest scheme without protection, there are many options, but now we will analyze the simplest scheme.

The easiest way to check a lamp's LED circuit

First we try to disassemble the lamp itself. There are collapsible models, but sometimes you will need to heat them with a hairdryer or trim the body. First, of course, a visual inspection. As a rule, a burnt-out LED is different in color or has a burnt leg and the LED solder pads are burnt or peeled off.

Method 1.

It is better to supply power with a separate power supply to the lamp. Usually 3.7 volts is supplied to each LED, but there are other ratings. Please note that the voltage changes depending on the number of LEDs. To quickly check the LED elements of an ice lamp using improvised methods, you can use any 3-volt battery and paper clips by connecting the contacts. Just observe the polarity of the connection.

Having connected the contacts to the paper clip and observing the polarity, we check the LEDs one by one

We also use a similar testing device when checking the built-in lighting of a lamp.

We check all the backlight LEDs for functionality

The failure of one LED will result in all of them being turned off!

Method 2.

The device needs to ring all undamaged LEDs in the circuit. But there is an easier way: connect the lamp to the power supply and carry out simple manipulations

Close (throw a jumper) the contacts of each LED one by one with tweezers or a wire with stripped and tinned contacts.
The lamp will light up when you find (close the contacts) on the burnt out LED. If this does not happen, look further down the chain.
Check the board for the cause of burnouts, swelling of capacitors, carefully check the tracks on the regulator board itself. Solder the broken contacts.

You cannot replace an LED with a jumper when there are less than 10 of them in the overall circuit; the capacitors will be overloaded; block LEDs will burn out when there are 3 of them in one case. They can be identified by three dark dots inside a yellow or white crystal.

LED lamp repair

It is important to know that the LED has polarity and when replacing it, you need to install it correctly on the board. All LEDs are printed soldered, that is, immersed in tin.

Typically, a soldering gun is used to seal the LED. At home, although it is difficult, it is possible to apply more tin with a soldering iron.

To install it, just install it on the printed circuit board and heat its ends with the contact pads with a soldering iron. With powerful soldering, you will have to additionally heat the board from the bottom with a soldering iron. It is important not to overheat the LED element when soldering!

A possible way to repair LED lamps using conductive paste.

The usual circuit of an inexpensive Chinese lamp for 220 volts. Instead of a reliable driver, they contain a simple transformerless power supply circuit with capacitors and a rectifier.

The network voltage is first reduced by a non-polar metal film capacitor, rectified, and then smoothed and increased to the desired level. The load current is limited by a conventional SMD resistor, which is located on the printed circuit board with LEDs. When diagnosing and repairing LED lamps of this type, it is important to follow safety precautions, because all elements of the electrical circuit are potentially under high voltage. By carelessly touching the live part of the circuit with your finger, you can get an electric shock, and a slipped multimeter probe can short-circuit the wires with unpleasant consequences.

Troubleshooting a remote controlled chandelier

Often, repairs to LED chandeliers need to be done due to overheating of the matrix itself. First, unscrew the fasteners and visually inspect the inside of the chandelier. Then they carefully try to move the board in place. Determine whether there is a break in the wires from the control unit, or whether the wire has burnt out due to overvoltage. If it's burnt out, solder it back in place. We check all the details one by one.

Then you will need an original chandelier diagram. Without it, you can only repair chandeliers without remote control. If there is a remote control unit, change the batteries in it with new elements. LED chandeliers with a control panel are common; here you will need an exact diagram of the chandelier controller to identify a breakdown.

The chandelier control unit is usually tightly sealed into a shell, and manufacturers draw circuits on it. These are just diagrams for connecting wires and lighting elements.

There are also blocks with a collapsible body, then the option is simplified. If the unit is not collapsible, use a tester to check the output signal to the lighting elements (LEDs). If there is no voltage supply, the reason may be a breakdown of the signal receiver. We disassemble it, visually check the contacts and tracks on the board, the integrity of the parts. If voltage is supplied to one lighting branch, then there is a breakdown in the control unit, and not in the signal receiver itself.

The burnt part can be unsoldered and ringed, first, all the resistances (see diagram) by placing an OM symbol on the device. Then the capacitance of the capacitors, fortunately there are symbols on them, polarity and type are also important when checking.

Designation on the diagram

If a discrepancy in the nominal value is detected, we resolder it.

The chandelier control unit is responsible for the intensity and burning modes of the LED elements. Violation of one of the circuits (in the lampshade version of the lamp) does not disable the unit; the fuse may have blown.

But still, check the blocks to see if there are melted places on them, yes, replace it with a new one. If the wires are connected incorrectly, only the parts in the power supply will burn. The regulator block is protected from excessive loads. It can be called according to the diagram.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=136&v=kfcfXjM5RH8

LED lamps have a number of advantages over other lighting devices. Repairing LED lamps with your own hands is not difficult, but you need to follow certain recommendations and tricks.

The benefits of such devices are environmental friendliness, economical energy consumption, and long service life. In most cases, LED lamps are made in China and therefore require repair, most often in the first year of use.

There are many types of breakdowns; we will talk about them in this article and show you how to deal with these problems. We will also consider how the repair of spotlights, LED strips, lanterns and chandeliers is carried out.

Before you begin repairing a 220 or 12 volt LED light bulb, you need to familiarize yourself with its structure. The design is extremely simple, the lamp can be divided into three parts: a housing with a base and a light filter, an LED power board, and an LED module.

Having carefully disassembled the case, the insides of the electronic circuit will be revealed to you. For the most part, Chinese manufacturers of inexpensive devices, such as “corn” and similar LED light emitters, install transformerless capacitor current sources. In these circuits, the capacitor acts as a current and voltage limiter.

The operating voltage of one LED is 3.3 Volts, and the current of the semiconductor crystal is about 20-50 μA, depending on the type of diode. If these parameters are too high, the diode will overheat and the crystal will break through and fail.

How do LED light bulbs work? 50 - 60 LEDs are soldered together in a chain, together forming a light-emitting element with a voltage of 180 volts. A power capacitor with a resistor limits the current and voltage to the required level.

Often, manufacturers of such devices deliberately deceive, and this is this: if you increase the current through the crystal above the operating rating, but within reasonable limits, then the radiation from the diode will increase. In this regard, the heat generation will also become higher, which can be combated for a short time.

This trick sets them apart from their competitors, due to their greater brightness with the same declared power. However, it leads to a decrease in light emission or destruction over time and bitter disappointment to the user.

So, having an idea of the electronic circuit of our LED lamp, which is not working, let’s look at how to repair it at home.

First of all, we perform a visual inspection of the microcircuit and the diodes themselves. In 80% of cases, the breakdown is a burnt out LED. To carry out repairs, you must first find a diode that is visually different from the others, for example, by the presence of a pronounced black dot, as shown in the photo below, and then replace it with a new one.

The current limiting resistor may also burn out. Working capacitors rarely fail, causing the remaining elements of the LED device to fail.

Since you are studying this page, we hope that you have a soldering iron and a minimum understanding of electronics. Now about the troubleshooting technique. Checking the diode is possible either with a multimeter or with a crown with a limiting resistor of 1 kOhm.

Alternately placing the wires on the LED terminals, the working one will shine. The multimeter in the dial position will also make the LED glow, as long as the polarity is observed.

If no problem is identified with the light emitter, we check the limiting resistor with a tester; in most circuits its value is about 100-200 Ohms.

Also the scourge of modern circuits is such a thing as “cold soldering”. This is when, over time, the contact in a poorly filled tin soldering area is destroyed.

The circuit is physically destroyed and breaks the integrity of the circuit, as a result of which the LED lamp does not turn on. The damage can be repaired by reheating the contact area and applying flux to it.

Rarely occurring faults are breakdowns of the rectifier diode or capacitor, which occurs during voltage surges. With the help of a tester you can establish this thoroughly. By identifying the cause and replacing the burnt-out element, you can return the light bulbs to working condition.

In more expensive LED devices, instead of a capacitor power supply, there is a switching power supply, which automatically adjusts to the voltage in the network, and by regulating it, the output maintains a constant value of voltage and current, preventing the diode crystals from overheating, ensuring long service life and a constant luminous flux.

The troubleshooting method is practically no different from that described above, and most likely it will be cold soldering on any of the elements. Repairing an LED lamp in this case will not be difficult.

If the diode light bulb does not light up or flickers, the reason is not always its malfunction. In most cases, the blinking is due to the fact that it is connected to a backlit switch.

In this case, you can solve the problem by replacing the switch with a regular one. Also, as a repair, you can consider another simple way to fix the problem: turn off the backlight on the switch by disconnecting the diode light bulb in it.

LED lamps burn brightly at relatively low voltage and low current. But not the Chinese “snakes” designed for the USB port. Meaning:

Two wires fit to the corresponding terminals of the LED lamp connector. The first one lands on the ground, the second one is wound up on the +5 V bus.
All the equipment inside the flexible metal corrugation goes to the end of the lamp, where a small LED is attached.

The improvised light bulb is covered by a small lens, and after breaking it looks exactly like in the photo.

Upon closer inspection, it turned out that the white LED inside is connected in series with a 20 ohm limiting resistor. Both looked slightly burnt or stained with an unknown resin.

The metal bridge is torn in the middle, creating a sinkhole. Two legs are extended from the edges under the base of the LED.
The air from the flask has been pumped out.
A thin rod, the color of which resembles copper, is thrown across the abyss.
The LED cathode is actually larger than the anode and produces a glow in the center of the lens (resembling a bullet).

As a result, the conclusion suggests itself that the seal of the LED was broken due to unknown reasons, which was the real reason for the failure of the device. A typical oxidation reaction occurred. Simply put, combustion.

Now we can say with confidence that the intensity of the glow decreased until the USB lamp went out completely. When studying the technical documentation of analogues (BL-L102UWC), interesting facts were discovered.

LED forward voltage should not exceed 4.5 V

But the real working voltage will be 2.7 V. Now it is clear that the resistor plays a current-limiting role and at the same time forms a divider with the LED. As a result, operating parameters are maintained. Of course, no one gives the direct resistance of the pn junction of the LED, but it is easy to calculate it indirectly from the current-voltage characteristic.

In the case under consideration, for example, this is R = 2.7 V / 30 mA = 2700 / 30 = 90 Ohm.

When the USB bus is powered within 5 - 5.25 V, the voltage drop across the LED will be: U = 5 x 90 / (90 + 20) = 4.1 V. This is barely within the acceptable range. Thus, the resistor will need to be replaced with at least 90 ohms so as not to overload the element.

Maximum current limit – 30 mA

Now let's look at the current. The Data Sheet says that the maximum limit is about 30 mA (according to table W - white). In a pulse, the peak can exceed this value by 5 times, with a cycle load factor of 0.1 (10% of the period) at a frequency of 1 kHz.

These are impulse responses. But the implied conclusion is that malfunctions of LED lamps of this kind are caused by the use of too little additional resistance. No wonder it turned black there.

Reverse voltage is 5V

The table indicates that the maximum reverse voltage is 5 V. Some sites have already posted information that even a tester can break through an LED. In reality it is different. Any master will measure the potential difference in the dialing mode, setting the tester properly, and using an additional one to estimate the voltage.

The voltage is usually much lower. However, installing a 90 Ohm resistor in series with our LED protects the sensitive element from most hypothetical troubles.

Maximum power dissipation - 120 mW

This shows what mode the LED is operating in. It is not possible to take and multiply the operating current by the voltage and get the answer in W.

Firstly, part of the energy is converted into light, and secondly, it is difficult to calculate exactly how much power is released through the casing of the device into the atmosphere of the room. It’s only clear that the harder the LED works, the better it needs to be cooled.

Diode luminosity – 10000 mCd

The luminosity of the selected LED is 10000 mCd. How to convert incandescent light bulbs or the less familiar LM indicated on the packaging of LED light sources into familiar watts?

The recalculation is carried out according to the formula: F = I 2 P (1 – cos (a)), where F is the luminous flux in Lm, I is the luminous intensity in Kd, P = 3.14 is the number Pi; a is the half-power angle (it is clear that less than 180 degrees - the shape of the cathode plane will limit the solid angle). We substituted the value a = 70 degrees and obtained a value of 11.3 Lm for our luminosity of 1000 mCd.

This means that seven dozen similar LEDs with a total power consumption of 8 W will completely replace overhead lighting. In fact, inside an ordinary light bulb there is a whole matrix of similar elements. The advantage of such a technical solution is complete safety.

It is not recommended to try the LED directly to the USB port, where according to the standards the voltage can reach 5.25 V. It is better to use 3 or 1.5 V batteries. Please note that the cathode (located in the middle, slightly larger than the anode) is supplied with a negative pole (side of the tablet opposite to the smooth one).

Then the current does not have to be limited by a resistor, which simplifies the process. Considering that, according to the USB 3 standard, the permissible output current is 900 mA, it is possible to hang a whole garland (20 - 30) of LEDs (for example, a strip) on one port. This creates ample opportunities for illuminating the workplace or part of the room.

The boundaries of a conventional port can be significantly expanded by using power supplies. Like the one shown in the photo. As you can see, the output current value on the case is 1.35 A. This pushes the boundaries.

If you multiply 1.35 A by 12 V, you get a value of 15 W in power. This is enough to power an LED light bulb with an equivalent luminosity of 75 W (more precisely, 10 W of power will be required). And this is a ready-made and safe lamp.

It turns out that you will have to buy a new LED at a price of one-third to one-half of the cost of the entire lamp. We think this is a disgusting arrangement. It’s easy to borrow a USB cable from an old mouse, and place the LED so that it directly illuminates the laptop keyboard.

In order to repair an LED lighting device with your own hands quickly and lead to the desired result, you need to prepare for it.
First of all, in order to find out the cause of the breakdown (for example, driver, LED, etc.), it is necessary to remove the chandelier or sconce from its permanent location.

For further actions, you will definitely need a screwdriver (Phillips or flat-tip). Sometimes pliers may be needed. They are needed if the device body was connected together using twists. In addition to pliers, you will need insulating tape and a multimeter to check the serviceability of the contacts.

Also, in order to manipulate small elements of the lamp device, you need to have tweezers on hand. If it is necessary to carry out soldering work, then you also cannot do without a soldering iron. To replace the LEDs, you can use a drill with a different set of drill bits.

Note! It is prohibited to carry out any electrical work with unprotected tools. They should always be protected.

Now that we have decided on an approximate set of tools, we can begin repairing a chandelier or other type of lamp with our own hands.

LEDs. They can be combined into a compact bridge;
capacitors (electrolytes);
several resistors (resistance);
coil with winding.

Let us remind you that this is the simplest operating diagram of an LED chandelier.

remove the lamp from the ceiling;
we disassemble it;
Now you need to carefully examine the device board for visible defects in the driver, broken wires and other components of the electrical circuit. If there are no such defects, then this is considered a good sign;
Now we remove the lampshade and study the appearance of the LED lamp or LEDs placed in the housing. The presence of burnt spots on the lamp base or the diodes themselves indicates their malfunction;
If obvious signs of damage are detected (burnout of the driver, LED, broken wires, etc.), repairs involve either replacing the damaged element or soldering broken contacts.

Disassembled LED chandelier

Also in this situation, you can carry out preventive work: tighten all the screws, repack all the terminal blocks, etc.

LED continuity

fix the lamps;
we supply power to it. It is best to use a separate power supply for 12 or 24 volt devices;
You need to ring all the LEDs. For testing, you can use ordinary tweezers when connecting the lamp to the power supply. To do this, you need to alternately close the contacts on each diode using tweezers;
the lamp will light up when a burnt-out LED is detected;
Now all that remains is to replace the burnt out diode and return the chandelier to its place.

Block LEDs

Remember that replacing LEDs with a jumper is only possible if their number in the overall circuit is at least 10. Otherwise, the capacitor will be overloaded. In such a block type situation, the LEDs will simply burn out.

LED strip repair

LED strips are widely used in decorative lighting and functional lighting, but from time to time they fail completely or partially, and therefore there is a need to repair or replace them. Often you can get by with just replacing a small section of it, which will reduce repair costs. In this article we will look at typical problems with LED strip.

Before we begin, I note that the main emphasis will be on common tapes with a 12V power supply, 24V tapes are similar in design, and at the end the features of repairing network (220V) tapes will be considered.

Flexible printed circuit board.
LEDs and current limiting resistors.
On one side, the flexible printed circuit board is coated with an adhesive compound.
On the second side there is a metallized layer - conductive tracks. They are made in the form of thin copper strips. SMD LEDs and current-limiting resistors are soldered onto conductive tracks.
The front side can be painted white, then the tracks are not visible, they can be seen when closely examining the structure of the tape.

If we are talking about white LEDs, then for them to glow you need a voltage of about 3V, and the strip is powered by 12V, how is this done? The tape consists of segments of three LEDs connected in series and 1 or more resistors.

To operate three series-connected LEDs, you need 8.5-9.5V; resistors are selected in such a way as to ensure the rated current of the LEDs and burn the extra couple of volts. Each such segment operates on a voltage of 12V.

In the strip, such segments of three LEDs are connected in parallel. Therefore, it can be cut in specially marked places to any length. The cut site is where the two segments join.

Such a tape is connected to a household power supply with a voltage of 220V AC using a power supply, usually a switching power supply with an output voltage of 12V DC.

Malfunction #1 - the entire tape does not light up

If, when turning on the power, it turns out that the tape does not light up at all, then you need to first make sure: is the power supply plugged into the outlet? Then check whether there is voltage in the socket; it is better to do this with a test lamp or multimeter.

If you check with an indicator screwdriver, the most you can find out is the presence of a phase, but there may not be a zero. Another option is to check with a two-wire voltage indicator.

If the socket is working, check whether the wire through which 220V is supplied to the power supply is intact. To do this, measure the voltage or check its presence with a test lamp at the terminals of the power supply to which it is connected, usually these terminals are marked with the letters L (line) and N (neutral), or the sign “~”.

If there is voltage, then we check the 12V voltage at the output of the power supply, again with a multimeter or a 12V test lamp, for example, from the side lights of a car, or, alternatively, with a piece of a known-good LED strip.

If there is no voltage, then you need to replace or repair the power supply for the LED strip; the procedure for diagnosing and repairing it was described in the article earlier.

If there is voltage, you need to check the serviceability of the wire and whether there is voltage on the tape. If there is no voltage at the contacts where the wire is connected to the tape, then the wire is probably damaged, you need to either replace it or find the damage and restore its integrity.

Or a terminal block can be used to connect an LED strip, then you need to check whether there is contact between the spring-loaded plate and the contact pad, perhaps it has oxidized, then it needs to be cleaned of oxide and the design should work.

Apply power by bridging the positive contact pads with metal tweezers from those to which the power wire is connected to those located at the junction of the first and subsequent segments. Most likely, one track burned out - positive or negative; it is unlikely that both could burn out at the same time.
Solder a jumper or the power wires themselves to subsequent segments.
Supply power from a 12V battery, suitable from an uninterruptible power supply or auto-moto equipment.

If the tape has a silicone protective coating to supply power to the contact pads, the coating must be cut off or pierced with a needle. Having localized the burnt-out area, it must be replaced by joining a new piece of tape with the remaining one.

Fault #1.2 - the tape burns to the middle

This is a special case of the situation described above. The reason is similar - a track burned out in one of the segments. The methods for diagnosing and repairing an LED strip are the same - supply power to sections of the strip located after the place that has failed.

Malfunction #2 - the entire tape or part of it flickers

Problems with the power supply. You need to make sure that it is working properly either by connecting the tape to a known-good voltage source or to a battery. Or, on the contrary, you can connect a known-good strip or light bulb to the power supply.
If the power supply turns out to be normal, then you need to make sure the quality of the contact between its terminals and the 12V power wires for the LED backlight. Then check the connection of the supply wires and the tape itself.
If this turns out to be normal, then check the serviceability of the tape by applying power to the other contact pads, as described above. If you manage to find a problem area, it needs to be replaced.
Perhaps the LEDs have simply reached the end of their service life due to aging, overheating, or improper power supply. Then the entire tape needs to be replaced.

Malfunction #3 - one or several pieces of LED strip do not light up or flicker

Individual segments may shine poorly, flicker, or go out completely. This may happen because a resistor or one of the LEDs in the series circuit is burnt out or damaged.

For the same reason, increased brightness of a separate area may be observed. Perhaps the elements are normal, but the problem, again, is with the flexible printed circuit board tracks.

It is best to immediately cut out such a section and replace it with a working one.

DIY LED lamp repair

The LED hand torch is practical and convenient. But the power switch often breaks down. And then all that remains is to either buy a new flashlight or repair it. And, of course, with your own hands...

With the advent of super-bright LEDs, the capabilities of portable flashlights have increased significantly. This is due to the efficiency of LEDs and high brightness.

Now you can buy a wide variety of designs - from small and cheap to large, professional and expensive. And although they sometimes differ in appearance and shape, they consist of several common parts - a battery, LEDs and a switch.

LEDs are usually of fairly good quality and have a long service life. The same applies to batteries - the only difference can be made by very cheap flashlights from dubious manufacturers.

But the switch, both in expensive and not so expensive models, fails quite quickly. This is due to the fact that it makes several dozen switches per day and simply cannot withstand mechanical loads.

And the current consumed by LEDs is most often at the limit of its capabilities. We can say that this is the weak link in the entire structure. How to be? You can, of course, run around the bazaars looking for the same switch and, perhaps, you will be able to find the same one. But soon he will suffer the same fate as the first.

There is a simple and effective method to get out of this unpleasant situation - replace the “native” switch with a Soviet-made toggle switch. Fortunately, these can be easily found for little money.

What is the advantage of such a switch? Firstly, the quality of the mechanical part. It is made of durable materials, according to technology, not economy. Secondly, the contacts of such a device are made of silver, which guarantees good contact and no burning. And this means a long service life and the absence of “flickering” of the light flux.

disabled;
diffused light is turned on (in some designs there is a built-in lamp);
Focused high beam is on.

If you have to repair a flashlight with one “ON” position, you can find a corresponding switch with the same quality, but with two positions.

To replace the three-position switch, a P2T-3 toggle switch will be used. This is a three position switch that can switch two circuits at the same time. It looks like this.

The “+” wire from the battery is soldered to the middle contact, left or right, it doesn’t matter. When the toggle switch is switched to the right, the middle and left contacts close. When switching to the left - middle and right.

Disassembling the flashlight should begin by removing the front reflector with LED. To do this, turn it counterclockwise and pull it forward. The reflector should come off.
Next, for ease of operation, disconnect the front connector. Now unscrew the fastening screws.
Inspect the light carefully to remove all screws. Carefully divide the body into two halves.
We unsolder all three wires from the switch, having previously marked the middle one as “common”.
One wire in this model has a limiting resistor. This ensures that the LEDs glow at a reduced brightness.
We solder it to the new toggle switch through a resistor.
Place the previously marked wire on the middle contact of the switch. Next we try to install the toggle switch into the case. In this case, it becomes perpendicular to the body, since it simply does not fit along.
Now we are trying to connect the two halves of the body together. Don't try too hard to avoid breaking anything. We make sure that the body sits in its place on all sides.
We tighten the fastening screws. Next, we find or make a rectangular plate with a hole in the center from metal, fiberglass or other strong material. It is needed to fix the toggle switch on the body. Holding the switch from the inside, tighten the fastening nut.
Now it's time to connect the connector and put on the reflector. After it sits in place, we turn it clockwise to fix it.
The work is finished. Such modernization will enable the lantern to operate uninterruptedly for many years.

Malfunctions of LED spotlights and their elimination

the lamp does not light up, although the power is turned on;
the light diode flickers;
the glow is too dim, as the lamp burns weakly - not at full power;
the shade of the light flux has become unnatural.

Other signs may also be present, including physical damage to the structure of the case, deformation of the diode, burnt out electrical wiring.

When replacing the matrix, be sure to pay attention to the polarity.
Be sure to remove the hardened heat-conducting paste under the matrix.
The surface should be degreased with alcohol.
When soldering, you do not need to overheat the surface. Soldering time is up to 2 seconds.
If the matrix is overheated, the crystals will be destroyed or their new characteristics will not allow the spotlight to function normally.

To repair a high-power spotlight, the knowledge used in repairing low-power lamps is sufficient. There are no special differences between devices of different power. If a matrix with a large number of diodes is not filled with a compound solution, the non-working diode will need to be replaced.

To perform this operation, a micro-soldering iron is required. You need to work carefully so as not to overheat the crystals. If it is impossible to see the values on the burnt-out resistances, you cannot do without the instructions for the spotlight.

It must contain the relevant data. Anyone can fix a spotlight. However, to perform repair work, at least basic knowledge of electrical engineering is required, as well as skills in using a soldering iron and a multimeter. You also need the ability to read diagrams to understand the design of the spotlight.

How to fix a 220v LED lamp

To begin repairing an LED lamp, you should try to disassemble it. Unfortunately, not all samples have a dismountable case; some, made in China, are disposable - their case is soldered together at the factory, and disassembly without damaging the internal components is impossible.

Don't waste your time, they are not that expensive to try to fix them yourself. But if you're interested, you can try it. Usually you should start with the base or diffuser; they are weaker than the main body, but they also hide the most important elements of the light bulb - the driver and the LED block, respectively.

We begin repairing the LED driver - we call it. You should start with it because it is the first one in line to supply current to the LED. The driver is a complex structure containing many elements, so we arm ourselves with a good table lamp and a magnifying glass if necessary.

We check capacitors, resistors, cables. This is a delicate matter - even visually intact elements may have an open circuit inside, so you will have to check everything. In most light bulbs, capacitors and resistors are soldered on top, so they can be replaced with new ones (check them before installing too, so as not to do extra work).

If there is another disassembled light bulb with similar parameters, you can test the driver on it. If it doesn’t work, it’s easier to buy a new light bulb; if it works, the repair was successful, we move on.

It should be noted that this is the method used to modify Chinese chandeliers and Chinese LED light bulbs, including corn lamps.

We look through all the paths of the circuit from the driver to the LED, for prevention we wipe it with a cotton swab slightly moistened with alcohol - this will definitely not harm 220 V LED lamps.

Using a digital multimeter we test the LEDs. Further actions depend on the type of crystals. If it is one crystal with a lens, soldered into a chip, you will have to desolder the entire chip; faults in LED elements of this type are almost impossible to repair at home (to desolder it, you will have to stock up on a soldering iron with a very thin tip).

If the SMD diodes burn out (and most likely, they are the ones installed in the light bulb), then they can be easily unsoldered and replaced with new ones (before installation, do not forget to check them with a multimeter so as not to accidentally install burnt-out crystals).

At this stage, the light bulb should work, since all important components have been checked. If it doesn’t work, double-check everything again, maybe some cable hasn’t been wiped. It still doesn’t work - throw it in the trash with a clear conscience. If everything is in order, welcome to the world of live electrical engineering, enjoy your use.

Repairing LED lamps can most often be done at home. To do this, it is enough to have a digital multimeter, a soldering iron, cotton swabs and alcohol. A thorough inspection of all important components and elements will allow you to identify the problem the first time, and careful work will allow you to restore the damaged areas.

The main thing is not to throw away the light bulb at the first sign of a breakdown; most often the damage is so simple that fixing it can be done with your own hands and will take very little time. And buying high-quality lamps (for example, Gauss) will give you a guarantee from the manufacturer.

How to check an LED light bulb

Pay attention to the power of the lamp in watts and the power equal to that of an incandescent lamp according to the manufacturer. And then we do a little check using the table of power and luminous flux.

The numbers in the table should not be taken literally, but they give an order of magnitude.

Incandescent, W	LED, W	Light flux, Lm
25	3	250
40	5	400
60	8	650
100	14	1300
150	22	2100

And a plate from a second source, so that you can compare and choose something in between. Although, they are similar.

Luminous flux of LED lamps
Power, W	3	5	7	10	12	20
Luminous flux, Lm	180 - 360	420 - 540	620 - 680	840 - 920	950 - 1170	1700 - 2200

That is, for example, if they sold you an 8-watt lamp, on which it is written that it is equivalent to 80 watts of a regular incandescent lamp, and the luminous flux is indicated as 680 Lm, then it is clear even to a first-grader at a parochial school that you are being deceived a little.

In fact, the power of such a lamp can be compared to a 60-watt conventional light bulb. And no more. But this does not mean 100% that this product is of poor quality. Maybe this is just a marketing ploy, which even famous brands sometimes ignore.

The second thing you need to pay attention to is the availability of a guarantee. LED lamps must have a warranty of two years or more. The one-year warranty gives reason to suspect that such an LED lamp may not work for long and will fail long before its 25-30 thousand hours of operation.

The alternating current that powers all our electrical appliances in the home has a frequency of 50 Hz. This means that all our incandescent lamps turn on and off at this frequency, that is, they flicker. But, due to the inertia of the filament coil, it does not have time to cool completely, and these flickers are almost unnoticeable.

The LED turns on instantly and turns off just as instantly. And, although we do not notice these on-off switches, such flickering has a negative impact on our eyes. To prevent this from happening and to make the LED last longer, special electrical circuits are installed in LED lamps.

This internal circuit of the LED lamp, which controls the luminous elements, is called the foreign word DRIVER.

This driver is implemented differently in different LED lamps - different elements are used, their number and connection diagrams.
A manufacturer who wants to save money and reduce the cost of their product installs a simple driver that does not meet all the requirements for this type of lamp.

Such a lamp, moreover, most likely will not correspond to the declared power of what is on the package. That is, you will simply simply overpay.

First of all, it is necessary to check the voltage supply to the cartridge contacts. To do this, screw in a working lamp; if the light comes on, the previous device is faulty. The reasons for the failure of an LED lamp can be very different - the diode is burned out or the board is not in order.

They often stop working due to condensation that has accumulated inside the housing. In any case, repairs with preliminary disassembly of the structure are required.

shell;
base;
matrix with a package of LEDs;
diffuser;
driver.

The lamp bulb is not airtight because there are no gases in it. The shell can be made of either plastic or glass. The plastic light diffuser is located at the top. The bases used are varied.

The components of the package are groups of LEDs soldered onto PCB or aluminum boards. Drivers in the form of individual blocks or built into the housing serve to transform the input voltage to a value most suitable for LEDs assembled in groups. The most popular power supply schemes are transformer type.

To make the inside accessible, you need to open the fastening clips that hold the diffuser dome. If it is attached to the housing with screws, they must be unscrewed. There is another disassembly method used for devices made using sealant sizing.

For implementation you will need a syringe with a needle, an awl, and a solvent. To detach the diffuser, you will need to remove the sealant that secures it to the retaining ring. An awl is passed along the edge and the solvent with which the syringe is filled is injected into the groove. After 30 seconds, the diffuser is removed by twisting. The radiator is removed using a screwdriver, and the LED matrix is unsoldered.

A burnt-out LED can be easily identified visually. It reveals itself by having a black dot. As an option, to make the lamp work again, a jumper is placed at the edges of the unusable LED, but it is better to replace it with a new one.

How to unsolder an LED from the pad

Modern LEDs for lamps are most often produced in SMD format and are chips that are installed on a board using the surface mount method. The chips are LED crystals that generate color.

Attempts to desolder the LED using a hot air gun are usually not crowned with success: the LED does not want to be desoldered.

The fact is that on the back side of the printed circuit board there is an aluminum heatsink, because LEDs, like all semiconductor devices, really do not like high temperatures. But even without a radiator, the process of soldering parts from a printed circuit board is much more complicated and dramatic than soldering new parts onto the board.

The easiest way to unsolder the LED is as follows. The first thing to do is remove the yellow elastic filter using a thin screwdriver or needle. Underneath there will be a metal surface with a crystal. Place a piece of solder and a small amount of gel-like flux on this surface. Using a well-heated soldering iron with a power of at least 60...80 W, heat this “sandwich” until the LED is unsoldered from the board.

Some better results can be achieved by using a low-melting alloy, such as Wood's alloy, instead of solder. This alloy in the form of small cakes is sold on radio markets. By mixing with base solder, usually lead-free, Wood's alloy lowers the melting point of lead-free solder. Therefore, the desoldering process becomes easier and faster, and the likelihood of overheating the printed circuit board is significantly reduced.

Another way to unsolder a faulty LED is with thermal tweezers. But not everyone has this tool, and it’s hardly worth buying it for a one-time use. Therefore, it is better to use a homemade U-shaped soldering iron tip.

After the faulty LED is sealed off, all that remains is to replace it with a new one.

To connect to a 220 volt network, a driver is used, which is a source of stabilized current. The driver circuit for LEDs comes in two types: a simple one with a quenching capacitor; full-fledged using stabilizer chips; Assembling a driver on a capacitor is very simple; it requires a minimum of parts and time.

The 220V voltage is reduced by a high-voltage capacitor, which is then rectified and slightly stabilized. It is used in cheap LED lamps. The main disadvantage is the high level of light pulsations, which is bad for health.

But this is individual, some people don’t notice it at all. It is also difficult to calculate the circuit due to the variation in the characteristics of the electronic components.

A complete circuit using custom ICs ensures better stability in the driver output. If the driver copes well with the load, then the ripple factor will not be higher than 10%, and ideally 0%. In order not to make a driver yourself, you can take it from a faulty light bulb or lamp, if the problem was not with the power supply.

If you have a more or less suitable stabilizer, but the current strength is less or more, then it can be adjusted with a minimum of effort. Find the technical specifications for the chip from the driver.

Most often, the number of Amperes at the output is set by a resistor or several resistors located next to the microcircuit. By adding resistance to them or removing one of them, you can obtain the required current strength. The only thing is not to exceed the specified power.

The weak point of drivers is the current-limiting resistors. They are checked first. You can replace burnt elements with the same or the closest resistance values.

The semiconductor diodes of the rectifier and capacitor are checked with a multimeter in resistance test mode. However, there is a faster way to check the serviceability of this section of the circuit. To do this, the voltage across the filter capacitor is measured.

The expected value is calculated by multiplying the nameplate voltage on one diode by their number. If the measured voltage does not correspond to the required one or is zero, the search continues: the capacitor and diodes are checked. If the voltage is normal, look for an open circuit between the LEDs and the driver.

You can check diodes with a multimeter without removing them from the board. A short circuit in the diode or its break will be visible. When closed, the device will show zero in both directions; if there is a break, the resistance in the forward direction will not correspond to the resistance of the open p-n junction.

You will recognize it on working elements. A short circuit in the diodes additionally leads to failure of the limiting resistor.

Repairing a transformer driver is a little more complicated than usual. But with the inverter you will have to tinker. There are more parts in it, and most importantly, it always includes a microcircuit. In order to draw a conclusion about its malfunction, you will need to either study in detail the principle of operation of the driver, or make sure that all the parts surrounding it are in good working order.