Voltage stabilizer asn 15000 3 em.


Voltage stabilizer Resanta ASN-15000/3-C relay type is used to equalize the input voltage and protect devices from voltage surges with a total power of up to 15 kW. Suitable for industrial and office buildings. Works with a voltage of 380V with an accuracy of +/-8%. The device is equipped with network noise filters that prevent distortion of the frequency sinusoid, microprocessor control and a digital voltage indicator. Exceeding the supported input voltage limits automatically turns off the power supply. The durable housing protects the internal components of the device from damage. Thanks to the transport wheels, the stabilizer can be easily moved.

Due to its operating principle, a relay-type stabilizer allows you to instantly respond to even the most significant and frequent voltage changes in the network and prevent equipment failure. The rated power at an input voltage of 190V is 15000W. Number of phases = 3.

Protection systems:
- Protection against voltage output beyond the operating range of the stabilizer (operating range of the stabilizer from 240 to 450 V).
- Thermal protection (thermal protection) allows the stabilizer to turn off when its load power exceeds the power of the device itself.

Advantages:
- Built-in filters for input and output frequency interference.
- Automatic power off when the voltage limit is exceeded.
- Wide range of supported input voltage.
- During short-term overloads, the device does not turn off.
- Automatic switching on when voltage equalizes within the operating range.
- Microprocessor control.
- High speed of protection response.

Hello all readers. Not long ago I came across another Chinese handicraft from the Resanta company, namely the Resanta ASN-15000/3-C relay voltage stabilizer. To be honest, at first glance he surprised me. For a second I thought the manufacturer was watching my video and reading reviews, so I corrected myself. But it was not there. Later I was a little disappointed. But that comes later.

Purpose: The three-phase AC voltage stabilizer "Resanta" is designed to provide a stabilized power supply to various consumers in conditions of an unstable 380 V supply voltage.

Let's start with the characteristics.

Line input voltage: 240-450 V
Phase input voltage: 140-260 V
Rated power at linear Uin≥330 V: 15 kW
Mains frequency: 50/60 Hz
Number of phases: 3
Linear output voltage: 380 U+U 8% V
Phase output voltage: 220 U+U 8% V
Regulation time: less than 15 ms
Efficiency, no less: 97 %
Cooling: forced air
Power factor: no worse: 0.97
High voltage protection: There is
Low voltage protection: There is
Overload protection: There is
Overheat protection: There is
Bypass mode: absent
Sine wave distortion: absent

Here, in general, for the most part, everything is standard, and we won’t learn anything new. I haven’t found a manual yet on the resanta website. This surprised me very much. It turned out that there is no paper manual, but you need to read it. Fortunately, the manual was found on another site. It’s not clear what the manufacturer is thinking about. Oh yes, the manual was missing at the time of writing this article, but after that it doesn’t bother me anymore. So, refrain from saying that I’m writing crap here.

For the test you will need:
1. The stabilizer itself
2. Current clamp UNI-T UT210E
3. Multimeter
4. Multimeter
5. LATR (3000BA)
6. Incandescent lamp 100 W
7. Electric kettle with a power of 1.8 kW (1800 W)
8. Bracket-clothespin https://goo.gl/K8PPPH
9. Bracket with socket for E27 lamp https://goo.gl/bs9VCG
10. Vernier caliper

Testing method:

This time it will be very simple and primitive. Let's do only two things:
1. Raising the voltage from zero to the maximum value that the lamp can withstand.
2. Raising the voltage from the minimum to the maximum value with a connected electric kettle of 1.8 kW.

Now let's move on to the stabilizer itself. You won’t see this in the photographs, but this stabilizer is supplied in a box made of fiberboard (a frame is assembled from bars and upholstered with fiberboard). Inside the box there are foam inserts at the corners to prevent movement inside the package.

The stabilizer is made in a metal case, reminiscent of a bedside table. On the front side of the stabilizers, a door opens, on which there are three LCD displays displaying various parameters. More about them below.


1. Delay - the indicator is active when the stabilizer is turned on and when one of the protections is triggered (low/high voltage, overheating, overload). Additionally, the display shows a countdown of the delay time.
2. Operation - the indicator is constantly active when the device is turned on.
3. Protection - the indicator is active when one of the protections is triggered.
4. Load indicator - changes in proportion to the load.
5. Weight - part of the load indicator - the indicator is constantly active when the device is turned on.
6. Resanta - the indicator appears when turned on (letter by letter), and is constantly active when the device is turned on.
7. Overheating - the indicator is active when the overheating protection is triggered.
8. Overload - the indicator is active when the overload protection is triggered.
9. Undervoltage - indicator active when output voltage is present< 202В.
10. Status bar - represents 8 dots. When turned on, each dot represents a 1 second turn-on delay.
11. Overvoltage - the indicator is active when the output voltage is > 245V.
12. Input Voltage - Displays the input voltage.
13. Output Voltage - Displays the output voltage.

And this is exactly what was discussed above. The stabilizer unwinds into several parts. The front door is opened and removed, the rear panel is unscrewed and the top roof is removed after unscrewing four nuts. There are four wheels on the bottom of the case, which makes transporting the device easier. I’ll say right away that the weight of the stabilizer is quite large, and it will be inconvenient to carry it alone.

On the right side of the stabilizer body there is an input pole switch, with the inscription “NETWORK” above it. On the left side there are two holes into which rubber seals are inserted to prevent the cable from rubbing against the edge in the holes. Two cables are threaded into these two holes: one is the incoming line, the other cable is to the consumers. On the back wall there is a fan rated for 12V. But to be honest, this is a poultice for the dead. It is of no use, and it will not be able to pump a volume of air for cooling. Also on the side surfaces of the case there are many technological holes that serve for natural cooling of the stabilizer.

Here are some closer photos. Stabilizer model:

Fan:

A kind of automatic switch, and two technological holes:

There is such a lock on the front door, but without a key and fool proof. By the way, it closes very poorly, it doesn’t go in clearly. Sometimes you need to hit him. Generally unpleasant. But since there is often no need to climb into the stabilizer, we will assume that this is not critical, just not pleasant.

I’ll tell you right away about the back panel. It is fastened with two screws, and the Chinese craftsmen do not seem to know what washers and a groover are. By the way, the same is true on the top cover. There are no washers at all.

Stabilizer with open side flaps and top cover removed:

At the bottom of the case there is a mounting panel. It has a terminal block for connecting power cables. Above is the Resanta PT34A-STBI module. A contactor is installed to the right of the module, which is responsible for switching the load at the output of the stabilizer. The connecting wires are threaded through technological holes with protective rubber bands. To be honest, I was surprised that even tiny rubber bands were installed.

Now let’s learn more about the Resanta PT34A-STBI module. The fact that it is in this stabilizer cannot but rejoice. Extra protection never hurts, especially in a 3F stabilizer. We are not talking about the logic of work yet; we will touch on it later. Naturally, I couldn’t restrain myself and opened it. There are no fillings. It seemed that everything was fine in this stabilizer so far, but after opening the module, collective farming was discovered. The very first thing that caught my eye was the diode soldered directly to the transistor flange. This is tough. Of course, this can be found in many places, but here there was no need for collective farming. At the bottom of the board we see a clumsy jumper made of a piece of wire, as well as a capacitor singed with a soldering iron. To be honest, I didn’t expect this. This is, so to speak, the first failure. I’m still silent about the bunch of SMD components soldered in vain. I also once made fun of a friend by throwing a photo with the phrase “Gouged out my eyes.” Enjoy:

Next in line is the contactor. As it turns out, he is Chinese. Its model is CJX2 3210. Designed for a voltage of 380V and a current of 32A. Taken with reserve, very good. I’ll tell you right away about connecting it. I swear a lot at Resanta because they don’t crimp or even tin the ends of the wires, especially since they use a wire with a stranded core, which must be crimped or tinned. Then I saw the opposite. Although it’s bad, it’s worth it. I was really happy.

Unfortunately, the joy was short-lived. As it turned out, there are quite a few tinned wires. In general, the Chinese were lazy during assembly. I still can’t understand why not put on the tips. It's not that difficult, and it's inexpensive. In general, the second failure. The Chinese have not improved. The input machine is made of dark gray plastic. Designed for a current of 25A with a rated voltage of 230/400V.

Display module. There is nothing special. Unique. The front is not protected by anything. They could also install a piece of plastic in front of the display. In general, it is quite easy to break if desired.

Next, we smoothly move on to our transformer. The total diameter of the toroidal transformer along the external windings is 160 mm. Next, as usual, let’s find out what the diameter of the winding wire is and what the maximum current is designed for. We use a caliper as a measuring tool. The diameter of the wire with insulation was 3 mm, but in the bare section without insulation it was 2.9 mm. From this we conclude that the thickness of the varnish is 0.1 mm. In previous calculations, when reviewing stabilizers, I took exactly this value. Everything was adequate. Next we calculate the radius. 2.9 mm/2=1.45 mm. Next, you need to calculate the cross-section of the conductor using the formula S = Pi * R 2. It follows that S = 3.14 * 1.45 2 = 6.60185 sq. mm. Approximately 6.6 sq. mm. This is very very nice to see. I saw a transformer with such a thick winding in a stabilizer. But its declared power was greater than that of this resanta. By the way, the wire parameters are completely the same for the two stabilizers. The winding current turns out to be 39.6 A. Let’s round up and get 40 A. From this moment on, “Resanta” begins to surprise. It's really wound up with a reserve. If you do the math, you get a maximum power of 8800 W (8.8 kW). So this is for one transformer. And we have three of them. The manufacturer claims the stabilizer power is 15 kW. If divided into three phases, it turns out to be 5 kW. In general, the reserve is more than 3 kW. But don’t forget, our input circuit breaker and contactor are not designed for high currents. Really, it feels like the Chinese mixed up and installed the wrong transformers. Or a new model, and they haven’t had time to spoil it yet. I don't know how to explain this. In stabilizers from Resanta, I saw a discrepancy between the characteristics of the winding wire.

There are several thermocouples installed on the transformer. Two thermocouples are under the topmost winding and one thermocouple is located on the inner ring of the “trans”.

Let's move on to the bandage. A fiberglass cambric is placed on top of it. The only thing that confuses me is why it was darkened, as if there was a heavy load, and the bandage was heating up strongly. We remove the cambric, everything seems to be more or less adequate under it. I saw the same picture in all other stabilizers where aluminum winding wire is used.


I didn't stop at one transformer. I watched the second one. There is no suspicion of burning there. Then I moved on to the third. And there it is the same as in the first one. I don't know how. But it looks more like traces of flux. See for yourself:

The stabilizer has a current-collecting coil installed on each phase. It is put on the incoming cable of the stabilizer board. Due to it, the load on the stabilizer is calculated and then displayed on the display.

Next up is the control board. It is made on a one-sided PCB, and in appearance for the most part does not differ from the model. Most of the board has been washed free of flux. Only the flux in the power section was not washed off. The power relays in this model are installed directly on the board.

In all resants on the boards in the power supply I constantly see VIPER 12A PWM, sometimes VIPER 22.

On the board, the places for the wires are marked, including the voltage outlets. We immediately return to our sheep. Why not crimp the wire, insert it properly into the hole and solder it as it should be? Here the wire is simply inserted into the hole and soldered. I have also seen when the wires are simply soldered to the back of the board.

The board contains JQX-30F/1Z power relays of unknown origin. Most likely China as usual. These relays are designed for a current of 30A. What actually happens to their parameters is unknown. I did not find a datasheet on the relay in such a housing.

The board is controlled by a microcontroller. This time I removed the sticker completely. It turned out to be a Chinese microcontroller Haier HR7P171F8D1. There is no datasheet either. In general, such a unique microcircuit.

We looked at the iron and found out what this stabilizer is made of. Let's return to the logic of his work. Let's start with the Resanta PT34A-STBI module. As I said above, this block controls the input parameters. More specifically, it checks the input network for missing phases (phases), phase rotation, and zero loss. Due to the presence of this module, the use of this stabilizer with one phase is impossible. Those. if you want to connect this stabilizer to a single-phase circuit, you will not succeed. The stabilizer simply goes into protection and that’s it. Before it is fully turned on, parameters are monitored, and the module then decides whether to start all nodes or not. This is very nice to see. True, on the Internet I met people having problems with starting it, when they tried to connect it from two phases, and nothing worked for people. Keep in mind. Stabilizers from other manufacturers do not have such protection, and three-phase stabilizers are three independent single-phase stabilizers that are not interconnected in any way. In such cases, it is also necessary to install various devices and equipment to monitor zero breakage, phase control relays and make other protection tricks, which in turn adds financial costs.

Now the pinout of the module contacts.



1. “ACJ C+”, “ACJ C-” power supply to the contactor armature winding
2. “OUT AO-” (white wire) “OUT AO+” (green wire) - goes to the phase “A” control board. Instead of one relay, they are soldered onto the winding contacts. Also similar to BO and CO.
3. “ACI N” (far left), “ACP N-A”, “ACP N-B”, “ACP N-C” connection of the neutral conductor.
4. “ACI L-A”, “ACI L-B”, “ACI L-C” phase control at the stabilizer input.
5. “ACO L-A”, “ACO L-B”, “ACO L-C” control of parameters at the output of the stabilizer, immediately after the contactor.
6. “ACI N” three terminals in the right block - zero control.

I would like to add about connecting the stabilizer to one phase. I also decided to try to connect three inputs at once to one phase, but nothing worked, as I said above, the stabilizer checks the presence of all phases at the input. Fortunately, I installed three-phase power in my apartment a long time ago, and now I can easily connect three-phase devices. I connected the stabilizer with a PVS 5x4 cable, with the ends crimped. A single-phase LATR was installed at the break in one of the phases. You can see the testing process itself by watching the video below:

I'll tell you about an interesting problem with the stabilizer. During testing, a glitch was discovered when the stabilizer tries to start and immediately turns off. Then it tries to start again, and again it cuts off. And this can go on for a long time. This happens at 139V input voltage. To be honest, this glitch is unpleasant, and is accompanied by the endless clicking of the relay. It happens that the contactor even manages to turn on, and then after it is turned on, the stabilizer suddenly goes into protection. I'm not very happy about this. It would be possible to make a longer delay with an input voltage of 140V. I don't think it's a problem to add the firmware.

The tests also revealed a peculiarity of the operation of the LCD display, or rather its readings. In general, the point is that one of the parameters, namely the input voltage, is now shown by the stabilizer in more or less real time and adequately. But the output, as it showed up to a certain range, is what it shows. In this case, the display shows 220V. Here's a live example:


When the output voltage crosses the border of 239-240V, the real readings begin to be displayed on the display.


Still, I am for the readings to always be in real time and displayed believably. This is what the stabilizer looks like at twilight. The backlight of the displays is very bright, and when the numbers on two displays are clearly visible, on the third display the numbers are no longer visible in contrast.

This is what my sofa and rug stand looked like:

CONCLUSION:

I'll tell you right away. The stabilizer surprised me. Compared to what I saw in other Resants, this example of the stabilizer demonstrates that the Chinese, if they try and turn on the light in their basement, can assemble it normally and accurately. The logic of operation of the stabilizers and its protection has been thought out. Fairly neat assembly. There are, of course, disadvantages, but you can’t do without them. For a stabilizer model of this power, I would say that the power relays operate quite quickly. Of course, without precise measurements it is not possible to say what the regulation time is, but by ear, we can say that the response speed is really less than 15 ms. There is, so to speak, experience in testing slower relays.

I cannot recommend this stabilizer for purchase, because... There is a serious overhead with switching on/off at low input voltage. But I also can’t say that this is a complete piece of shit, as in previous reviews. The result was such an average piece of hardware, not good and not bad. So average.

There is also one disadvantage that LCD displays are not protected in any way. Putting a piece of plastic in front of the screen would be nice.

One more thing. This stabilizer was in use, and, as they told me, it was used for protection. Therefore it was dismantled. Why exactly he went into defense - I don’t know.

That's all, thanks for your attention. I will be happy to accept a voltage stabilizer of any brand, model and power for testing.


Model ASN 15000 3 Ts is a reliable, modern stabilizing device designed to operate in a three-phase network with voltage parameters up to 380 V inclusive.

Advantages of the stabilizer ASN 15000 3 Ts

  • The manufacture of the housing part of the Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts stabilizer from high-strength reliable metal guarantees long-term effective operation with maximum comfort and safety for the user.
  • The protection class of this device warns that it is impossible to carry out the work process in conditions of high humidity and when the temperature in the room rises to around 40°C and above, however, it is reliable protection for all internal mechanical components from damage and from the ingress of dust and dirt.
  • The stabilizing device from Resant ASN 15000 3 Ts has economically reduced energy consumption, which overall provides a high level of efficiency of 97% and ideally comfortable low noise.
  • The ASN 15000 3 Ts stabilizer, with three displays located on the front-facing part, provides the operator with all the necessary information during operation to provide adequate and safe power supply to consumer devices that require uninterrupted energy consumption with evenly reliable indicators.
  • The multi-level protection system available in the ASN 15000 3 Ts device allows you not to worry about the safety of both all devices connected to the stabilizer and, of course, the direct users of the presented model of stabilizing equipment.

General information

  • Stabilizer Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts is a three-phase type functional model for providing optimal energy supply to household appliances in conditions of possible changes in voltage in the network of a short-term or long-term nature.
  • The device Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts has a relay type of product of the working action, which indicates the elementary nature of its operation and, accordingly, the absence of mandatory requirements for the level of experience of the user.
  • The stability of the stabilizer is ensured by an ergonomically shaped metal body - optimally durable and performing its immediate functions as reliably as possible.
  • The speed of the stabilizing machine within 15 ms fully allows the device to respond as quickly as possible to all possible voltage changes with precisely instantaneous and, most importantly, timely adjustment of indicators.
  • The Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts stabilizer is equipped with a large number of housing ventilation holes to constantly ventilate the internal mechanism and, accordingly, prevent possible overheating.
  • The presented product from Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts is capable of informing the user about the status of such important indicators at one time or another during the working time of each phase, such as: device operating mode, indication data about “delay”, “operation”, and “protection”, values changes in current load, as well as overload, overheating, etc.

Principle of operation

  • The design features of the corrective “activity” provide for the operation of the Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts stabilizer according to the principle of relay switching.
  • Taking certain measurements of the input voltage and then comparing it with the output is one of the steps carried out by the built-in microprocessor.
  • Next, if these data do not match or do not correspond to a given level, a relay command is issued that regulates which winding should be switched to to obtain the optimal result.
Exploitation
  • The voltage stabilizer device Resanta ASN 15000 3 Ts is a reliable and generally absolutely safe device, which, in addition, does not require any special conditions of use.
  • However, compliance with general fire safety rules is important.
  • And, of course, you should not turn on the stabilizer at high humidity, more than 80%, and air temperature exceeding the 40-degree limit.

Resanta ASN-15000/3-EM is a high-quality and reliable stabilizer for use in three-phase networks

The Resanta ASN-15000/3-EM stabilizer is an indispensable device for protecting electrical appliances from short circuits and voltage surges in the network. With it, you will forever forget about the failure of household and industrial equipment, which can occur as a result of poor quality power supply. The device continuously smoothes out both long-term surges and short voltage surges without introducing any distortion into the output sinusoidal signal. The stabilizer is perfect for providing high-quality current to various solariums, machines, pumps, welding machines and other three-phase devices that require an even 380 V for normal operation. The device will be equally useful for industrial premises or construction sites, as well as for beauty salons, cafes or private houses. It is able to reliably protect electrical appliances from any problems, ranging from damage to substations or current-carrying wiring, to short circuits or unbalanced voltage division between phases.

Optimal choice for loads up to 12 kW

The stabilizer can work with a wide range of input voltages, which makes it a universal device for solving any problem. Even if the voltage drops to 240 V or rises to 430 V, you will get an exact 380 V output with an error of no more than 2%. The developers have also thought through such a situation when the incoming current goes beyond the permissible limits. In this case, the protection system is activated, blocking the supply of electricity, and when the voltage returns to the original range, the system turns off, transferring the device to normal mode. Thanks to its high efficiency of at least 97%, this model is one of the most economical among its competitors. The stabilizer is capable of operating with a load of up to 12 kW, which allows you to use both several devices with high power and provide current to a large number of equipment with low power consumption. All connections are made using terminal blocks, and the fully automatic design is capable of operating for a long time without human intervention.

Resanta ASN-15000/3-EM is produced as part of the popular series of three-phase electromechanical stabilizers ASN, which is rightfully considered one of the best on the domestic market. The manufacturer is the well-established company Resanta, which has been operating in Russia for more than 20 years. ASN stabilizers successfully combine excellent workmanship that can compete with many well-known brands, uninterrupted operation in any operating conditions, and at the same time boast the lowest cost among competitors. The manufacturer was able to achieve such impressive results thanks to the constant modernization of its devices, carried out by a staff of experienced developers.

The regularly expanded range will allow you to select the optimal device for any task and budget, because in only one ASN line there are 12 models, and if you consider that Resanta has as many as 7 different series of stabilizers, then the issue of choosing a suitable model is solved very simply. No less important for the company is the maintenance of devices already purchased by customers, so today in our country you can find more than 40 service centers providing timely support to residents of all regions.

Advanced electromechanical design with digital control

Resanta ASN-15000/3-EM is designed for operation in three-phase networks with unstable voltage. The electromechanical design provides the highest accuracy of output current and excellent response speed of 10 V/sec. Thanks to this, the device copes well with compensating for any differences, but since very short voltage surges require devices with a faster response, the manufacturer recommends using the stabilizer exclusively in networks with long rises and falls, but without sharp impulses.

The device consists of three independent single-phase power circuits, which are connected into one three-phase device, controlled by a fast microprocessor. The design is called electromechanical because it uses the principle of electronic control of the operation of the mechanical part. The microprocessor, receiving data from the voltmeter, calculates the degree of compensation and sends commands to the servo motor, which moves the slider connector along the autotransformer winding, thereby equalizing the voltage. The autotransformer itself has an adjustable design and is built into the primary winding of the booster transformer. This solution allows you to obtain a balanced current distribution and the most stable operation of the device.

First-class protection and smart execution

The Resanta ASN-15000/3-EM stabilizer is equipped with a durable metal case that protects it from accidental damage, and has a floor-mounted design. The ventilation system creates natural cooling of the transformers, preventing them from overheating. To monitor the operation of the device, there are 3 ammeters (one for each phase) and one voltmeter that display the output power and voltage, as well as a number of buttons on the control panel. To route the current bypassing the stabilizer circuit, there is a manual bypass, and built-in filters are designed to reduce frequency interference.

Short circuit protection is provided using fuses. Damage to the device circuitry due to a decrease or increase in voltage to a critical level will be prevented by an automatically triggered current cut-off system, and the transformer temperature control system is designed to prevent it from overheating. The stabilizer should be used in a dry room with a humidity of no more than 80%. The device also does not like extremely low or high ambient temperatures beyond the limit of 0-45 degrees. In order for the device to work for a long time without failures, do not forget to carry out its maintenance. To do this, monitor the condition of the contact sliders, which are worn out due to prolonged use, replacing them in a timely manner, and regularly clean the transformer from dust.

How not to make a mistake when choosing a stabilizer?

Technology does not stand still; the range of products produced by manufacturing companies is steadily growing, regularly offering users new, more and more advanced devices to combat voltage surges. How to understand all this diversity and make the right choice? A series of simple measurements and calculations will allow you to answer this question. Having decided on which network the device will be operated in: three-phase or single-phase, you should specify how many units of equipment will be connected to the stabilizer and measure the current parameters in the network.

Devices such as a multimeter or current clamps will help us find out the voltage we need to calculate the expected operating range of the device. Moreover, to carry out the analysis, data on its minimum and maximum values ​​at different times of the day and night will be required.

A digital analyzer or indirect methods, consisting of monitoring changes in the brightness of lamps and the regularity of failure of electrical appliances, will allow you to determine the nature of surges in the network. If the voltage smoothly increases or decreases and remains at the same level for a long time, then an accurate electromechanical stabilizer is more suitable for you, and if it jumps sharply, then a faster relay one.

The last thing you should pay attention to when choosing a suitable device is the expected load. The more devices are connected to the stabilizer and the higher their power consumption, the correspondingly higher will be the total power required for correct operation. To calculate the exact value, simply add up the data indicated in the passports of electrical appliances, or measure the load with an ammeter. Add 25% of the reserve to the final result, and based on this information you can safely select the appropriate device.

Highest operating accuracy, a wide range of input voltages, various protection systems and ease of use are just some of the advantages that make Resanta ASN-15000/3-EM one of the best stabilizers for use in three-phase networks with loads up to 12 kW.

In this article I will tell you about my experience in repairing an electromechanical voltage stabilizer Resanta asn-20000/3-em, the appearance of which is shown on the left.

I have already described how a voltage stabilizer works in articles on stabilizers. Anyone interested in general questions about the selection, connection and types of these devices - please follow these links.

I think that if you set out to repair the stabilizer and came to this page, the principle of operation is well known to you.

Components of three-phase Resanta ASN

Before moving on to repairing the voltage stabilizer, let’s first take a brief look at what our box consists of and how it works.

So, as I already said in the previous article about three-phase stabilizers, a three-phase stabilizer is three single-phase ones. The same is the case with Resanta asn-20000/3-em:

Three-phase electromechanical stabilizer - device

It can be seen that this stabilizer consists of three identical parts - three single-phase stabilizers, each of which stabilizes only its own phase. This applies to such common single-phase models as ASN 10000 1 em, etc.

That is, even if there is a significant imbalance in the phase voltages at the input, the output for all phases will be 220 V + -3%. You can read more about the parameters of such stabilizers in the instructions, which can be downloaded at the end of the article.

And if the phase imbalance occurred as a result of a zero break, about the consequences of this. A three-phase stabilizer will correct the situation to a certain extent, and if it fails, it will turn off and save the consumer.

Autotransformer

The heart of an electromechanical transformer is a step-up autotransformer. This “heart” beats in time with the change in voltage at the input of the stabilizer, trying to equalize it to normal.

Step-up autotransformer - the heart of the electromechanical stabilizer

Why is a step-up autotransformer used rather than a step-down autotransformer? Because stabilizers most often have to deal with reduced input voltage. But this does not mean, of course, that it cannot reduce the overestimated input voltage. However, I will not describe the principles of operation of the autotransformer here.

Let's look at the stabilizer device in the following photo:

Stabilizer device with explanations

The first thing you need to understand is that an autotransformer consists of two equal parts connected in parallel to increase power. Accordingly, there are two windings, two brushes ride on them (the brush is not visible in the photo, it is indicated by an arrow).

Since the brush is a contact, and a rather poor one at that, it gets hot. This is normal, but a radiator is provided to cool it. A temperature sensor is installed in the brush radiator, which, when the permissible temperature is exceeded (105°C), opens the control circuit and disconnects the load from the stabilizer output.

The motor moves brushes along the surface of the winding, adjusting the voltage. At the end of the brush stroke, corresponding to the lowest voltage (140 V), limit switches are installed to stop the motor. This is the most difficult operating mode, since the output power of the stabilizer drops. If the voltage drops further, the autotransformer can no longer cope, and the entire stabilizer turns off. This occurs by opening the KL relay contacts (see circuit diagram below).

A temperature sensor is attached (glued) to the transformer body, which, when overheated above 125 °C, opens the control circuit, protecting it from further thermal destruction.

Both types of sensors are self-healing. That is, when it cools down, the control circuit is assembled, and the stabilizer is ready for use again.

Electronic board

What makes the autotransformer motor move? This is an electronic circuit that measures the input phase voltage and outputs voltage to a servo motor, which moves the autotransformer brush, changing the output voltage to the desired level:

The above photo shows the consequences of eliminating a common malfunction - breakdown of bipolar power transistors through which the engine is controlled. Along with them, resistors also burn out, which initially had a power of 2W, but were replaced by 5W. But for malfunctions and repairs - at the end of the article.

This starter is necessary to protect (turn off) the stabilizer and load in case of unavailability, malfunction or overheating.

Let's take a closer look at its operation when analyzing the electrical circuit diagram.

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Electrical diagram of a three-phase voltage stabilizer Resanta

Let's consider the circuit of a single-phase electromechanical stabilizer Resanta ASN - 10000/1-EM. Let's take this circuit, because, as I said, three single-phase ones are one three-phase stabilizer.

The diagram, as usual, can be zoomed in and then enlarged to 100% by clicking on the arrows in the lower right corner of the image. Then right-click, Save Image As... etc.

Be sure to check out how to print such a large diagram.

Electrical circuit for voltage stabilizer Resanta-ASN-10000-1-em

For ease of perception, I have marked the main structural parts on the diagram.

Typically, the voltage stabilizer uses ha17324a - this is an operational amplifier chip, it compares the voltages and outputs a signal to transistors TIP41 and TIP42, which supply power to the autotransformer motor.

I will not fully consider the operation of electronics; if you are interested, ask questions in the comments.

Now - how does this circuit differ from the circuit of a three-phase stabilizer:

The main difference is in the control circuit. In the single-phase version (in the diagram) it can be seen that the control circuit for powering the KM starter is assembled as follows: Neutral – On-delay relay KL – Thermal relay 1 transformer (125°C) – Thermal relay 2 transformer (125°C) – Thermal relay 1 brush (105 °C) – Brush thermal relay 2 (105°C). Total – 5 contacts. If this circuit is assembled, the KM contactor turns on and voltage is supplied to the output of the stabilizer.

In the three-phase version, in order for the stabilizer to start, 15 (!) conditions must be met - this is exactly how many contacts must be closed in order for the KM contactor to turn on.

During normal operation, when the stabilizer is turned on, you can hear how the CC is assembled - after about 10 seconds there is a click (on one of the electronic boards), then another one, and the third click starts the contactor and the entire stabilizer.

What is a control circuit, its difference from emergency and thermal circuits, and why the repair of any serious automation must begin with checking the control circuit - it is described in detail, I highly recommend it if you have read this far)

The second is the absence of a cooling fan; in this case, the cooling is natural.

Third, there is no bypass; its implementation will require the use of a three-pole contactor with normally closed contacts (or two conventional contactors), this is expensive, so the manufacturer did without it.

I am also writing to the house about this problem via AVR.

Repair of electromechanical voltage stabilizers

The main problem with such stabilizers is overheating. It is absolutely necessary to carry out maintenance of the stabilizer once every 1-2 months, depending on operating conditions. And the repair of voltage stabilizers must begin with cleaning.

The problem of overheating manifests itself primarily due to the fact that the graphite brush, when moving along the surface of the transformer, inevitably wears out, and its particles, along with dust and other debris, remain on the contact track.

Now, when the brush continuously “crawls” over the surface, it begins to heat up more, spark, the debris burns and burns to the copper surface. In the future, this negative effect will increase like an avalanche, and if measures are not taken, it will reach irreversible limits, when cleaning will no longer help.

Of course, thermal sensors will save the situation - these are the first “bells”. If the stabilizer suddenly starts to turn off on its own, you should urgently call a specialist and clean the surface.

Here is the surface of the transformer in satisfactory condition, after three years of operation 8 hours a day:

Surface – Satisfactory. And this is after washing with alcohol.

And here is what indifference to the state of the stabilizer can lead to. This is the same stabilizer, a different phase:

Surface condition – Very bad

Even if you clean off this deposit, the cross-sectional area of ​​the wire will irreversibly decrease by 20-30%, which will increase the heating of the wire and brush, and lead to the pessimistic processes described above:

The surface of the autotransformer is close. The wire insulation is burnt out, an interturn short circuit is possible. The epoxy also fell off due to overheating.

Only “zero” sandpaper will help here. You need to clean as you go with the brush, then rinse thoroughly with alcohol and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Servomotor repair

Another breakdown is a malfunction of the servomotor when it stops moving the brush. The engine must be removed, cleaned, blown, and lubricated. Since a DC motor with brushes is used, you can try to idle it in both directions from a DC source with a voltage of about 5 V.

This way, without disassembling it, you can clean its brushes a little, because the engine rotates (or rather, turns) only at an angle of up to 180 degrees.

Electronic board repair

The engine may not turn over because there is no power coming to it. The power comes from the control board, from bipolar transistors. A pair of complementary transistors TIP41C and TIP42C is used, since the power supply to the circuit is bipolar. Transistors must be replaced in pairs, even if one is intact. And only one manufacturer.

The datasheet (documentation) for transistors can be downloaded at the end of the article.

Also in the same circuit, 10 Ohm resistors burn out (this is a consequence of the breakdown of transistors). When replacing resistors, nothing prevents you from increasing their power to 3 or 5 W, increasing operational reliability.

Well, replacing relays, transistors, limit switches and other small things - depending on the situation.

Power section repair

The power part includes autotransformers (I have already said enough about them). And also - a contactor and an input circuit breaker, whose contacts and terminals are lit. It must be periodically stretched, cleaned, and, if necessary, replaced.

Modernization proposals

If the voltage fluctuates approximately in one narrow range, and the transformer track is burnt out in this area (as in the last photo), I suggest changing the circuit so that the brush “travels” over another area. To do this, you need to resolder the wire from the lower end of the winding (N) several turns higher (see diagram). Of course, on both parts of the autotransformer. As a result, the brush will slide along another, relatively clean part of the path. The disadvantage of this solution is the narrowing of the adjustment range.

Another solution to this problem is to buy new transformers, which is not economically feasible - after three years of operation it is better to buy a new stabilizer.

Another improvement is to install 12 V coolers (fans) on each transformer, which would blow on the brushes. Ideally, 6 fans. They will literally blow away specks of dust. This will significantly extend the life of the stabilizer.

How do you repair such stabilizers? I look forward to constructive criticism and sharing experiences in the comments.

Repair video

Below is a video that describes the principle of operation, testing and repair of the electromechanical stabilizer.

Download files

As promised - instructions for the stabilizer and documentation for the transistors. As usual, I download everything freely and without restrictions.

/ Three-phase electromechanical AC stabilizers Resanta. Technical description, passport and operating instructions., pdf, 386.75 kB, downloaded: 2600 times./

/ Technical description of transistors for Resanta stabilizers, pdf, 252.13 kB, downloaded: 2272 times./



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