An echo of the massive buildings of the 70s of the last century were panel high-rise buildings, which today can be found in many cities post-Soviet space. Built from "semi-finished products" - monolithic panels- such buildings are characterized by a stereotyped layout, poor sound insulation, as well as relatively thin and uneven walls.

What are the characteristics of the front door in panel house, and how to ensure the reliability of its fastening in a problematic floor?

Basic design parameters

The size front door in a panel house, as a rule, complies with generally accepted standards. Many SNiPs, which are still relevant today, are the same age as such structures.

You should not count on the fact that a reliably blocked opening will protect you from extraneous sounds coming from the entrance. Soundproofing a panel building is a task that requires a multilateral approach. But this factor should not be ignored either. In the general set of measures to create a calm environment in the apartment, a structure equipped with filler and seals is an indispensable part. A quality block will create an obstacle for acoustic "garbage", and for drafts, and for cigarette smoke.

In order for the entrance doors in a panel house to be able to protect you from uninvited guests, it is worth equipping them with two locks of different principles of operation, armor plates, vertical thrust. The loop zone of modern metal structures is equipped with anti-removable pins. A wide-angle peephole will allow you to monitor the situation on the landing.

Installation Features

Such ceilings often contain rebar that installers encounter when trying to drill mounting holes. This leads to insufficient anchor depth or wall chipping - both of which negatively affect the protective properties of the block. This minus is designed to eliminate metal rods, by means of which the drilling point is shifted into the concrete.

A thin overlap requires fastening the structure through mounting lugs that are welded to the sidewalls of the box. Under standard conditions, six such plates are required.

Even if the opening is made evenly, and the dimensions of the entrance doors in the panel house are in full agreement with its dimensions, it may seem that the product is installed with distortions. However, the problem is not in installation errors, but in the curvature of the walls. You can verify this with the help of a level.

Doors can be different, interior or entrance, wooden or metal, simple and equipped with various additional automatic systems. And in each case, the installation of doors of appropriate complexity must be carried out.

Door manufacturers usually install the doors themselves, provide a guarantee for the work performed, and, of course, charge a certain fee for this.

Naturally, the installation of doors involves the involvement of a team of professionals, but at the same time, the work can be done independently. Knowing the installation rules interior doors, and the nuances of installing a metal door, the whole procedure can be done together in 3-4 hours.

For those who choose the latter option, consider how to install a metal front door with your own hands.

Nuance. As a rule, the manufacturer does not provide a guarantee for a door that is installed by third parties, and also does not perform its adjustment.

Installation of entrance metal doors - instructions

1. Preparatory stage

Door installation tool

The set of tools required for work is shown in the photo.

As you can see, there is no need for a highly specialized professional tool.

Preparing doors for installation

Preparing the purchased door also does not take much time. You need to unpack it, check the completeness. Check how the lock works and make sure the hinges can be adjusted. To date, only hinged welded handicraft hinges are unregulated.

Advice. If the door does not have a protective film, it is recommended to protect it with a plastic film and stick masking tape on the door frame.

Preparing a place for installing doors

Preparation of the installation site involves the removal of furniture from the place of work, the removal of the floor covering or its protection, the removal of the plinth, protection of design elements from dust. In addition, it is worth immediately deciding in which direction the door should open and take into account the required gap size. So that in the future the floor covering does not interfere with the operation of the door.

2. Dismantling the old front door

For a new building, this stage is not relevant, but when replacing the entrance iron doors in an apartment or a private house, it should be taken with all responsibility.

Dismantling a metal door takes no more than an hour and is divided into two components:

• dismantling of the door leaf. If the door is installed on non-separable hinges, then it can be removed by opening and lifting it up. The door slides off the hinges easily. Given the weight of a metal door, a crowbar may be needed. If the hinges are collapsible, then they need to be disassembled using a screwdriver;

• dismantling the door frame (metal or wood). It happens that the door frame for a metal door is wooden, then you need to unscrew all the anchors and remove individual parts from the doorway. You may have to cut the wood into pieces and take them out with a crowbar. Most often, the front door is installed in a metal box. Then you need to cut the mounting rods and remove the box. And then eliminate all surface irregularities, remove unnecessary plaster and remove dust.

3. Preparing the doorway for the front door

This stage is also different from the installation of interior doors. And it has several features:

• The entrance metal door cannot be cut. Usually the door leaf is sold in standard sizes with a step of 100 mm. Naturally, it cannot be cut without violating the integrity and appearance. Therefore, to install the door, you need to change the parameters of the opening. The standard width of the doorway of the front door (metal) is 86-96 cm (according to fire safety standards). In such an opening it is convenient to bring furniture, household appliances, etc. into the house. As a rule, most of the manufactured entrance doors have this width, so you can simply pick up the door.

To reduce the opening, you can install a metal frame from a channel or square. The scheme for installing an entrance metal door in a wide opening is shown in the figure.

The disadvantage of this method is the appearance of cold bridges. They can be eliminated by arranging and insulating slopes.

To expand the opening, you need to cut down part of the wall. To do this, use the grinder. In a house cast from concrete, it is much more difficult to perform such work. Therefore, it is better to calculate the required width even before buying a door leaf.

Advice. Do not use impact methods to expand the opening, this may lead to cracking of the supporting structure of the building.

• The entrance metal door is heavier. The optimal thickness of the metal for the front door is 2-3 mm. A thinner sheet can be cut with improvised means. So, it can not be installed in any opening. So, for example, a wall brick house or a house built from hollow blocks does not have sufficient strength to support the weight of a metal door. In this case, a monolithic concrete portal is cast for the front door, which is connected with reinforcement to the wall. And already a door frame is mounted in it.

• The thickness of the door frame exceeds the thickness of the wall. According to GOST 31173-2003 "Steel door blocks", the box cannot be installed in a wall whose thickness is less than 150 mm. In this case, you need to think about thickening the wall.

• The load on the floor increases. To do this, the strength of the floor covering is checked in the doorway. If a wooden beam or brick was previously used during installation, it is better to remove them, and clean the place and pour concrete. For a lighter door, you can lay a new brick or an antiseptic-treated timber made of durable wood.

At the same stage, communication is arranged. For example, lighting, doorbell, etc.

4. Installing the door block in the opening

There are several ways to install a door block with your own hands.

The technology for installing door blocks - the diagrams are shown in the figure.

The choice of a particular option depends on the features and weight of the front door. For understanding, we briefly describe each method.

Method 1 - installing the door block using mounting plates (lugs)

Schemes 1-3 in the figure. The most popular of the mounting methods, because. many growers and shrubs make door frames with protruding lugs. Usually there are three of them on each side rack. The box is installed so that the plates are adjacent to the outer part of the wall. And the technological gap between door frame and the wall was 10-20 mm.

A hole is drilled in the wall. Its depth depends on the thickness of the wall and should be 2/3, but not less than 100 mm. Further, through the hole in the eye, anchor or plumbing bolts are inserted, which are tightened with keys. Quite often, reinforcement is inserted into the eyes. A rod thickness of 12-15 mm is sufficient.

Advice. With hollow walls, anchor bolts are not used, and the length of the pin must be increased to 500 mm.

For reliable fastening, the pin is splashed (to form a hat) or welded to the eye.

Advice. To make it easier to start the reinforcing pin, you can sharpen one end of it.

The scheme of installation through the eyes is shown in the photo.

Advice. When installing the door, it is better to orient the eyes inside the room. This will protect yourself from cutting the door.

Method 2 - installing the door block through the door frame (box)

Scheme 4 in the figure above or drawing in the figure below.

It is used if the door is installed in the opening with the device of internal and external slopes. In this case, the wall thickness must be at least 150 mm to avoid internal damage.

To install the door block in this way, holes 100-150 mm deep are drilled through the mounting holes in the metal of the door frame. An anchor bolt is inserted into them and tightened with a key, or reinforcement is started. If holes in the door are not provided, they are drilled with a drill. The value of the technological gap between the wall and the door frame is 5-10 mm.

Advice. When installing the door in this way, take care to protect the door covering. Powder coating can be painted over, while polymer coating cannot be restored.

The installation diagram of the door block through the box (door frame) is shown in the photo.

Method 3 - installing the door block by concreting the door frame

The newest of the existing, but has already found its supporters. It provides for concreting the door frame, as shown in the diagram.

The essence of the method is that a hollow door frame is used in which a concrete solution is placed.

The installed box is leveled using a level, anchored (fixed) in the wall using anchors and left until the mortar has completely hardened.

Installation of an entrance metal door - rules

The choice of one method or another does not mean that the metal front door will be installed correctly. When performing installation, you must adhere to the following sequence of work with the obligatory use of a building level or plumb line.

• measure the width of the door in three places (top, bottom, middle);

• install the door frame strictly according to the level. This will avoid distortions in the future. Initially fix the door against the wall using wedges. This will help to easily and timely adjust its position. In this case, it is recommended to place the wedges as close as possible to the corners so as not to damage the cover of the box;

Advice. The vertical must be checked from the outside and from the inside of the box.

• drill holes in the wall. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to the dimensions of the fasteners;

• insert pins or bolts into the holes and securely fasten them;

• ensure a tight fit of the threshold to the floor. After all, it will have the greatest load;

• install door hinges, lubricate them, remove unnecessary (excess) grease.

5. Hanging the entrance metal door

The door must be installed with the necessary clearances. The size of the door gaps in the door frame is constant around the entire perimeter. This will ensure the normal functioning of all locking mechanisms and hinges.

After the door is installed, the ease of opening it is checked and the hinges are adjusted. We'll show you how to do it right.

How to adjust the hinges on the front door

To adjust the door hinges, you need to release all the fasteners on the middle hinge, and leave one tightened on the bottom and top hinges.

If the gap exceeds the norm from above, then it is necessary to loosen the fasteners on the lower hinge. Once the door leaf is in place correctly, you need to secure the loose screw on the top hinge and then the rest of the screws on the bottom hinge. After that, the screws are fixed on the upper hinge and lastly on the middle one.

Advice. You can check the quality of the installation of the front door as follows. Put a sheet of paper on the threshold or counter and close the door. Pull on the sheet. It should pull out with some effort.

6. Filling technological gaps with foam

Before you start filling the gaps between the door frame and the wall with foam, many professionals advise to remove the door leaf to prevent foam from getting on it. However, the masters advise to close it with a film and blow out the openings with the door closed. This will allow you not to overdo it with foam, which can even inflate a metal box.

Advice. With a significant gap between the wall and the box, it is better to seal them with foam, and only then foam them.

During the day, the foam will solidify completely and it will be possible to cut it off. If wooden wedges protrude, it is recommended to cut them off and in no case hammer them. This can lead to deformation of the door frame, which is eliminated only by performing work again.

Advice. The threshold should not be blown with foam. It collapses from constant stress. It is better to seal the base and cracks with concrete.

Installation of entrance metal doors - video instruction

7. Decorative design of the entrance metal door and opening

It includes the design (finishing) of slopes, fastening of platbands, installation of a closer on the door, etc.

8. Caring for the entrance metal door

A properly installed metal door does not need maintenance or lubrication. Therefore, all care comes down to careful operation and care of the door leaf with inside:

• at powder coating you can use aggressive detergents;

• when trimmed with vinyl leather and MDF panels, it is better to use a damp cloth without chemicals;

• when decorating with a laminate, you can use any type of care, the main thing is to wipe the door dry;

• when using veneer in door trim, it is better to use special wood polishes for cleaning;

• a soft cloth is used to clean the handles and locks, and the moving part of the lock is periodically lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.

Conclusion

This manual contains all the nuances of installing an entrance metal door. By adhering to the above recommendations, everyone will be able to perform the correct installation iron door with your own hands.

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• We consider the basic installation rules metal doors, as well as installation errors

  If you are going to buy an entrance door, do not forget that the installation of the door is milestone. The most proven option is to purchase a metal door from the MosDveri company along with the installation. But sometimes the installation service is ordered from a third-party organization. In this case, it is necessary to take into account certain points and nuances, without which installation is necessary, so that you can check the correct execution of the work and understand the most important subtleties.

  As a rule, when purchasing a steel door in a store, most resort to the help of some familiar acquaintances, skill and professionalism, which are not much different from your level of knowledge in this matter. And in these situations, not very pleasant surprises can await you.

  Firstly, you do not assume who these people are, representatives of which organization. Of course, there can be no talk of a guarantee for the work performed on the installation of your metal door. And where you will look for them in the event that there are problems after such an installation, you will not know.

  Secondly, steel doors from different manufacturers usually have their own individual design details and features.

  Thirdly, and even if you were lucky enough to find the installers who did the installation, then where is the guarantee that you will not be convinced that the initial defect of the steel door is a problem, and not their installation work. As a result, you will call the seller from whom you purchased the door. And most likely, the seller will remind you that before you buy it, you checked the door and it was in excellent condition, no complaints. What can follow from this? Of course, the fault in this problem is unskilled installers and assemblers. And it turns out mutual responsibility: the door sellers blame the installers, and the installers, in turn, blame the door sellers.

  After such your travels, you get a damaged metal door and spent free time and extremely bad mood.

  We would like to invite you to consider in detail the most important shortcomings and errors in the installation of metal doors:

  1. When installing the door, it is necessary to check the level in three dimensions. Opened in any position, the door must stand straight and not close. You don't want the steel door to close and open by itself, do you? One of the main rules for installing a door is to maintain balance or verticality.

  2. To reduce sound and heat insulation, a tight fit of the door leaf to the frame is necessary. This is achieved by pulling the upper or lower parts of the door frame into the lock part.

  3. Locks must be tightly fitted. As a result, the crossbars that are included in the door frame must have a technical clearance.

  4. Technical gaps between the doorway and the door frame are also needed, which should not interfere with the high-quality sealing of the gaps between the door frame and the doorway with mounting foam.

  5. Do not allow the fastening holes in the door frame to be close, this can lead to chipping of part of the wall.

  6. Asymmetry of closing leaves for double-leaf steel doors should not be allowed.

  7. As a result of unreliable fastening of the box, the door frame becomes loose.

  8. Strongly overtightened mounting pins (anchor bolts) can “take away” the door frame, which will lead to a loss of door installation level.

  9. When mounting the door on mounting foam, the use of anchor fasteners is mandatory.

  10. In wooden buildings the technical clearances necessary for shrinkage must be taken into account, as well as the use of "doorway pits" is mandatory.

  11. Another nuance: multi-storey panel houses and installation of metal doors in them. It is important to remember that in concrete walls, there is a load-bearing reinforcement. And everything is possible when drilling holes for anchor fastenings, getting into the reinforcement. As a result, the installation of a steel door is carried out at a shallow anchoring depth. Also in this case, cracks may appear in the concrete wall, which will have an extremely negative impact on the protective properties of the mounted door. But when using steel rods, this can solve the problem. These rods move the drilling point deep inside the slab.

  12. It is necessary to remember about the adequate ratio of the severity of the metal door and the strength of the doorway. If the strength of the opening is small, then in this case it must be strengthened before installing the door. Also, do not forget about strength, if there is a minimum thickness brick walls. This also applies to concrete walls. In this case, it is necessary to install a steel frame that will strengthen the doorway.

  We have listed the most important rules when installing a door, and any customer needs to pay attention to their violation.

Installation of metal doors has many nuances, which only experienced specialists can take into account. To date, you can find a lot of different information about the types of steel doors, and. Of course, all this is very important for the consumer, but do not forget that no super-doors will serve as they should if mistakes are made during their installation.

Your actions at the checkout stage

Be sure to pay attention to the specific characteristics of the door: weight, dimensions, design features. For example, sometimes it is necessary to strengthen the doorway itself before fixing the frame. This is especially important for brick walls, which are characterized by a minimum thickness - installation will be required here. metal frame. It should be pre-fixed to the concrete floor slab and walls, and only then be taken for the installation of the front door. The need for these works, even before placing an order, should be indicated to you by a specialist who comes for measurements.

At the same stage, you must warn the master about possible changes in the room immediately adjacent to the front door: raising the floor, installing a screed, and other proposed repair work. Discuss with the measurer the degree of burglary resistance of the chosen entrance door, consult about locks, find out about the presence of protection for crossbars and the effect of wall curvature on the final result.

Door installation control

The biggest mistake is installing a skewed door frame. What could be the reason for this?

The first is the inattentive alignment of the box relative to the vertical and horizontal, in order to avoid which you need to use a level, preferably a laser one. The door must be absolutely level, even if the doorway itself is not geometrically accurate.

The second is poor cleaning of the seats from bumps and sagging of the solution. They interfere with the correct alignment of the structure, which is especially dangerous for heavy armored doors that require special alignment during installation. The slightest deviation from the level will sooner or later manifest itself, since the door is installed not for one or two years, but for decades.

Pay close attention to the installation process if you live in a panel house. It's no secret that there is reinforcement in concrete walls, and often when drilling holes for anchor bolts, installers get into places where it lies. This is fraught with either insufficient fixing depth or chips of brittle concrete, and this is a direct way to reduce the degree of protection of the front door. To eliminate this drawback, it is recommended to use metal rods, which make it possible to shift the drilling point further into the concrete. Depending on the length of the metal rod, you can choose any distance of the fastener from the edge of the wall.

Checking the quality of work performed

The door should close easily enough even with a seal and be pressed against the tongue controlled by the handle. When closing the door, you should not hear the sound of the crossbars rubbing against the door frame. A slight play that appears when you press the handle with the door closed indicates correct installation- crossbars move freely, that is, they do not wedge anywhere. The gaps between the walls and the door frame can only remain if their cause is the curvature of the opening, and not a violation of the geometry during the manufacture of the structure.

Check the locks several times - the ease of opening and closing them at all declared speeds indicates good quality their installations. And, finally, look through the peephole - if it gives the viewing angle that is written in the documents, you can safely sign the act of work performed and say goodbye to the installers. And don't forget to get your warranty card from them!

We recommend that you do not do it yourself. No matter how master you are with golden hands, it will be a difficult, almost impossible task to assemble a heavy structure alone. In addition, the installation technology, depending on the manufacturer, may vary - even a very small mistake can lead to a quick failure of the mechanisms. It is best to order installation from the manufacturer: specialists, unlike lone handicraftsmen, have already thoroughly studied all the features of this particular design, which guarantees you high quality installation, long service life of the door and free warranty repairs in case of problems.

Hello, in this article I will try to describe in as much detail as possible the technology for installing a steel door.
Decide on a set necessary tool so we need:
- Perforator with a set of 14 and 10 drills with a length of at least 30 cm
- a nozzle for a perforator for expanding walls (peak and spatula)
- Drill or drill bit
- Bulgarian with a circle for metal at 125 + a diamond circle for stone at 125
- level (Personally, I use a small magnetic one, very convenient)
- a set of fasteners (which one I will describe below)
- pre-prepared bonnets from wood bars
- wood saw
- hammer, small sledgehammer, chisel, nail puller
- a set of screwdrivers (we are interested in a small Phillips for picking up door handles and a large Phillips for screwing anchors under a screwdriver)
Before installation, you need to evaluate the opening, measure the height and width, we are interested in the light dimensions - from brick to brick. Doors of all manufacturers have the same standard sizes, or differ quite a bit. The most common door sizes are 96 by 205 and 86 by 205, some manufacturers may differ by a couple of centimeters. So, ideally, we should have a 90 by 210 or 100 by 210 opening under our door, if your opening is narrower or wider, I will return to this below. Next, we look at what our walls are made of, in new buildings, as a rule, there are two options: either brick or hollow blocks, in secondary housing, either concrete slabs with reinforcement, or brick. Depending on the material, we prepare the necessary fasteners and a supply of nerves. For brick walls and concrete slabs, we will need anchors 14 by 150, for hollow blocks we will need long anchors for a screwdriver 6 pieces 10 by 202, 6 perforated plates, 6 non-reinforced corners, 12 roofing screws, 6 small anchors 10 by 58 V in new buildings, as a rule, there are no problems with the opening, but a number of difficulties arise in secondary housing, we will consider this option in more detail.

Installation in a panel Khrushchev.
I will describe the installation process itself below, for now I will talk about possible difficulties.
There are 2 types of openings in Khrushchev - with and without a transom. If your opening is not with a transom, that is, without a hole on top, as a rule, you have to expand it. In such openings, the dimensions are usually 204-207 by 86-89, but due to the fact that the upper plate protrudes and the looped casing rests perpendicularly against the neighboring wall, it will be necessary to hollow it out. Let's get to work. We remove the old steel door from the hinges, then we cut off the bolt heads that hold the old metal frame with a grinder, we hook the frame with a montage and take it out. Before us is an old wooden box with a door. We also remove the door first, then pick up a saw for wood and look for the weakest beam in the box design, I usually choose a threshold and saw it in half. We take out the broken threshold and easily hook it up with a crowbar and take out the side and top bars. Before us was bare light aperture. We take a puncher, put on a drill for 10 and drill a line with a dotted line from above and from the side, having previously measured the desired width and height. Be prepared for the fact that you will meet with armature. Then you take a chisel and a sledgehammer and tap into each hole, take a puncher and put on a nozzle - a pike and, in impact mode, hit the tapped holes. The concrete will begin to crumble and move away in layers along the dotted line, but not everything is so simple there is reinforcement on top and on the side, it will hold the concrete. We are looking for the main rod, free the extreme points with a puncher and cut it off with a grinder, and continue to expand, the concrete will fall off along with the reinforcement. In the variant with a transom, everything is simpler, we dismantle the door frame according to the described scheme, dismantle the transom, put the door, and lay the resulting hole in blocks. We have developed, in my opinion, the most reliable way to fasten the blocks, it is shown in the photo.

Installation in a nine-story panel house.
In a nine-story panel house, there are different openings - quarters and trapezium openings. In both cases, an extension must be made. We expand using the same technology as in Khrushchev.
Installation in new buildings.
If the opening is brick, then you are lucky, we dismantle the construction door, as a rule, it can be easily removed, and proceed with the installation. If the opening is made of hollow blocks, then we have 2 mounting options: we fasten either to long anchors 10 to 202, or we fasten to plates. If you are not a professional, then I advise you to fix it on the plates. We fasten three plates on the roofing screws on the inside of the box, then put the door in the opening and wedged it in level. From the inside, we fasten it to short anchors 10 by 58 corners and tighten it with roofing screws with plates. We will get a design in which the door wraps around the wall with its casing from the outside, and from the inside it wraps around the opening with plates and corners like a crab.
The installation process itself.
So, let's assume that you have an ideal opening where you do not need to expand and lay the transom.

First we assemble the door handles, insert the lock cylinder, check the operation of the lock mechanism. We insert the door into the opening. The partner should keep the loop side close to the wall. Initially, we apply a level and see how our door stands, we hammer in the prepared bonnets between the wall and the door frame so that our door is level. During the installation process, gaps may form between the outer casing of the wall and the door, this is an indicator that your walls are not even, this is not scary and nothing can be done about it. Please note that only the loop side is set according to the level, the side of the castle (castle zone) is set according to the catch. So our door stands in the opening, wedged and level, carefully open it, while your partner must firmly hold the door leaf. I advise you to substitute a bar or leg under the canvas. We first fasten the uppermost anchor of the loop side. It is very important to fix it extremely securely, since the main load will fall on it, I usually use a long anchor. Then we fasten the extreme lower anchor and look at the catch, it is important that there are no gaps and distortions. It is necessary to ensure a uniform fit of the seal to the door leaf from the locking area; for this, we place caps, if necessary, between the wall and the door trim. We also fasten the uppermost anchor and check the closing again, then the lower one. And only when our door is fixed on 4 anchors, we fix 2 middle anchors. If the door closes tightly, it can be adjusted. On many models, the strike force adjustment is provided by a striker. We loosen the 4 screws that hold it and move it to the right or left entirely by a couple of millimeters, if after this adjustment a backlash has formed after closing the door, then you need to move it a smaller distance. If there is no plank, we take a flat file and grind off the excess metal in the hole for the dog, and each time we check the smoothness of the slap. Our door is installed and adjusted, it's time for the foam. You need to foam only with professional foam through the gun, it has a low expansion coefficient and it is convenient for it to foam hard-to-reach places. We start foaming from the bottom up with zigzag movements. If the distance between the frame and the wall is more than 3 cm, I advise laying it with cardboard or rolled up newspaper so that the foam has something to grab on to, otherwise it may fall out and stain the frame. The door is ready and it can be used immediately, the foam dries in 2 hours
I hope the article was useful to you, good luck to you. gene. Director of LLC "DeltaBlis" Andreev A.V.