Swamp sphagnum moss: where does this moss grow, how is such moss used when growing indoor plants. Sphagnum moss in floriculture: properties and applications

Sphagnum, peat moss (Sphagnum L.) from the Sphagnaceae family. Sphagnum mosses (see photo) are widespread throughout the swamp areas of the entire north of Russia.

They usually form dense or loose tufts of various colors (from greenish-yellow to purple) in hummocky moss bogs and swampy forests. Ledum and blueberries (gonobobel), cranberries and cloudberries, cotton grass and princelings, and stunted birch and pine trees are common plants in such sphagnum bogs. There are several dozen different types of sphagium growing here; in the European part of Russia alone there are more than 40 of them.

These mosses, due to their biological characteristics (unlimited growth due to the lack of a root system, high suction capacity and aseptic properties, often create huge deposits of peat, which is of great economic importance. Well-decomposed sphagnum peat, in various types its processing (lumpy peat, milled peat chips, peat briquettes, peat gases) is a high-quality fuel material.

Sphagnum application.

Slightly decomposed sphagnum peat is used in a number of sectors of our economy and industry, for example: agriculture as bedding for livestock, peat fertilizer, peat-chalk feed for livestock, packaging and preservative material for transportation and storage food products sh fruits (peat powder); in construction as an insulating building material (peat, phagnite, isoplytes, peat plywood) for laying voids in walls or for filling them; in sanitation as a disinfectant and odor-destroying agent for filling in powder form Wastewater and cesspools; in medicine (in surgery) - when dressing wounds in the form of gauze bags made of compressed or dry sphagnum instead of cotton wool or lignin: in paper production as raw materials for the production of coarse grades of paper (newspaper, wrapping paper, wallpaper, cardboard); finally, in the chemical industry - for the preparation of paints, tannins, alcohol, etc.

During the Great Patriotic War received great importance the use of sphagnum in surgery as a good suction dressing material for purulent wounds The question of sphagnum as a dressing material is very old, already in the 11th century. The British began to use sphagnum for this purpose, then later it spread widely throughout Western Europe.

In the 19th century this was already a well-known remedy: during the Napoleonic wars, sphagnum served as a dressing material in the navy; in the Franco-German war of 1870-1871. sphagnum was used as a standard dressing material; during Russo-Japanese War The Japanese used sphagnum dressings to provide first aid to the wounded, and many wounds dressed with sphagnum remained in quite satisfactory condition without any dressing for 10 days while the wounded were being transported from Manchuria to Japan. During the imperialist war of 1914-1918. sphagnum became widely used by the British, and then it quickly spread in France, Belgium, Egypt, Canada, the USA and other countries.

After the 80s of the XIX century. Russian surgeons also began to use sphagnum; during the imperialist and civil war some of our doctors also used sphagnum and spoke well of it. Recently, the harvesting of sphagnum for surgical purposes and its use in hospitals have become very widespread and universally recognized. The practice of using sphagnum for dressings has shown that it is much better than many other dressings, especially in the treatment of purulent wounds.

In its unsterilized form, the suitability of peat moss is 12.5 times higher than cotton gray wool, 4 times higher than absorbent cotton wool and even exceeds the suitability of a Greek sponge; sphagnum sterilized at 115° has 9.5 times greater suitability than cotton gray wool, more than 3 times than absorbent cotton wool, and only slightly less suitability than Greek sponge.

Collection and drying of sphagnum.

It is best to collect sphagnum in the summer and dry autumn, from May to September, but if absolutely necessary, it can be collected at any other time of the year, even in winter, by removing the moss from under the ice and snow. Essentially all types of sphagnum moss are suitable for collection; you just need to choose long-bearded, long-stemmed moss, at least 7 cm in length, since short-stemmed moss produces a low-quality product. Therefore, it is necessary to take the thick carpet of sphagnum cushions as deep as possible, capturing in any case the entire living, green part of the turf before it turns into a reddish-felt layer.

At the same time, it should be borne in mind that the dying lower layers of sphagnum with fallen leaves are of little use for dressing purposes, and therefore the reddish, dying parts of mosses should not end up in the collected material. The actual collection of sphagnum moss involves simply pulling out the moss with your hands or a rake with curved teeth. Immediately after removing the moss, squeeze out the water in it. Then the squeezed moss is placed in baskets, with the heads in one direction, and cleaned of any accidentally introduced impurities (needles, twigs, leaves, stems of marsh plants, etc.).

Collected and cleaned moss is dried in the sun, in the wind or in a Russian oven at a temperature of 50-60°. The degree of drying is determined by eye by the whitening of the green parts of the sphagnum; Harvesting practice has shown that from 9-11 parts of fresh, damp moss, 1 part of dry moss is obtained. The humidity of dried moss should be about 25-30%. Further overdrying entails brittleness of the moss and the formation of dust, which is not allowed, and at a humidity above 40%, the moss becomes moldy during long-term storage and freezes in frost.

After drying, sphagnum is best prepared into bales similar to peat bedding bales, with light pressing to a size of 100 x 60 x 50 cm and a weight of 70-80 kg. The bale is tied along the long sides with slats tied with wire. This type of boiling is very convenient for transport and prevents heavy contamination of moss on the road.

It is best to store piles of sphagnum moss in a shed or under a shed to prevent it from becoming saturated with water from rain and snow*, which can cause the moss to rot and mold. Under such conditions, the presence of winter cold ensures the preservation of slightly under-dried moss until spring. Sphagnum that is not used up during the year must be replaced next summer with a new one, which is easily doable due to the completely unlimited reserves of sphagnum in Russia.

Sphagnum photo.

What it is

Sphagnum is moss. It grows in damp areas, absorbs moisture well, and has bactericidal properties. It is this plant that contributes to waterlogging of the area, because after the lower part of its stem dies and rots, a substance is formed - peat, and subsequently peat bogs are formed.

Botanical description of sphagnum

This moss belongs to the Sphagnum family. The name “White Moss” is also found in the literature. The plant was nicknamed this because of its ability to change color when it dries - it turns from green to white.

It absorbs water over its entire surface, has no roots, and is attached to the soil by the lower part of the stem. Like all mosses, it is very tenacious and unpretentious to living conditions.

The plant reaches a height of up to 20 cm, the stem is branched. The leaves are small, without veins, light green.

Sphagnum reproduces through the fusion of antheridia and archegonia, which are located at the tops of individual twisted stems. After fusion, a sporophyte is formed.

The benefits of white moss

The plant has many beneficial properties. It is used in medicine as a healing, antibacterial, antifungal agent. Sphagnum also has an anti-inflammatory effect and accelerates wound healing.

White moss is even used in construction work. It is placed between the logs wooden house for better thermal insulation.

The plant is also used to make deodorizing products with a pleasant aroma.

White moss in indoor floriculture

Sphagnum moss is most often used as a soil amendment for indoor flowers. Its beneficial properties are that it makes the soil hygroscopic, the soil becomes loose and allows plant roots to pass through, which are firmly anchored. Due to its ability to absorb moisture, the soil is evenly moistened.

Another useful property is that it releases sphagnol - an anti-rotten, bactericidal substance that reliably protects the neighboring plant from rotting roots.

It has been proven that sphagnum has a beneficial effect on plant flowering and is used for rooting leaf cuttings.

In order to transport or send a plant by mail, white moss will also come to the rescue - it is moistened, laid on top of the soil and secured with tape. Thanks to this design, the soil does not spill out of the pot, and the moisture of the sphagnum does not allow the soil to dry out for a long time and the plant survives the move better.

Methods of use

There are different ways to use it, here are a few of them:

Adding to Soil

As already mentioned, sphagnum makes the soil loose, light and regulates moisture. You need to know some rules of use: white moss in the soil should be no more than 10 percent, since the plant increases the acidity of the soil. But you should also remember that, for example, it will be very useful for violets.

Use for tubers and bulbs

White moss can be used to wrap tubers and bulbs of heat-loving plants. This will protect them from rotting and drying out for a long time. Flowers will survive until spring planting, because they will not be afraid of gray rot and mold.

Lining the pot

Lining a flower pot with sphagnum moss is usually used for flowers that require high humidity. Moss retains moisture in the soil well, and some of the water evaporates, giving moisture to the crown, which also has a good effect on the plant. However, this method should not be used for ordinary flowers; too much moisture can harm them. But, for example, when planning a trip for a week, moss can be very useful. By covering the soil and watering the flower, the moisture will remain in it for another 7-10 days.

Rooting cuttings and leaves

Rooting with the addition of sphagnum moss to the soil (1:1) prevents rotting of cuttings and leaves. Then, when transplanting, moss is used in a ratio of 1:3. This method is most often used when we're talking about about orchids and violets. On the contrary, this method will not work for succulents.

Where and how to collect sphagnum

Sphagnum is a safe plant, non-toxic and has no thorns. You can assemble it without gloves or a shovel, as it can be easily pulled out of the ground.

It is better not to tear it out completely, but to cut off the upper part with a knife or scissors. This is due to the fact that the collected moss will not be contaminated and renewal will occur faster at the place where it was collected. These measures are very important for preserving natural areas where white moss grows.

When young shoots appear on the cut sphagnum, the plant can be used.

Sphagnum is often found in wet, wet areas, in forests on the banks of streams, and near lakes. Distributed in the northern regions of Ukraine and Russia.

Translated from Greek, “moss” means “sponge.” In reality, this name fully justifies itself, since sphagnum can absorb much more water than its own weight. Often, beginning flower growers confuse sphagnum with another type of moss - “cuckoo flax,” which is quite similar in shape and structure. Its main difference is only in color.

Sphagnum moss has a light green tint, which turns white after complete drying. Its key feature is complete absence root system. After the growth phase is completed, the plant of this species dies and turns into peat. The upper part of the plant still continues to grow. The absence of a rotting stage is ensured by elements that have wound-healing and bactericidal properties.

These same unique properties of sphagnum are actively used by gardeners and flower growers. IN last years it began to be used in medicine. In wartime, he helped many wounded, since this remedy absorbed pus and blood, disinfected wounds and cuts, severe burns. Today, based on it, pharmaceutical companies produce various remedies for cuts and burns, fungal diseases, a wide variety of skin diseases, produce medical alcohol, diapers and various dressings.

Sphagnum moss has a smooth stem, the height of which does not exceed 20 cm. The habitat of sphagnum is marshy areas. It grows in large clusters, gradually forming a peat cushion. It is most often found in the mountainous heights of the southern region and tundra forests. It is almost impossible to find it in wet lowland forests. However, this wild plant has valuable properties.

The use of this type of moss allows you to make the soil loose and light, nutritious and hygroscopic, which is especially important when growing plants such as orchids. Its key features are intensive absorption of liquid and its uniform distribution over the soil, as well as maintaining moisture for several weeks. The substance sphagnol contained in the plant prevents root rot. For practical purposes, it can be used in any form. Even after thorough drying, it retains its extraordinary properties.

Appearance and photo of sphagnum moss

This bright green carpet in the photo is sphagnum moss.

Sphagnum moss in the forest

And the reddish moss shoots in the next photo too.

Sphagnum moss may look like this

And in this photo of sphagnum moss, it is a pale green cushion and grows in a pine forest. By autumn there is no longer much moisture in it, so it turns white.

Pillow of sphagnum in a pine forest

The stem of the moss is erect and quite long. It has many side branches sticking out to the sides, densely covered with small scaly leaves. The stem also has leaves, but there are fewer of them.

At the top, the branches are twisted and form a head. It is this that is the hallmark of any sphagnum moss. On individual branches in the head, organs with sex cells are formed - antheridia with sperm and archegonia with eggs. Some species - monoecious - have them on every plant. In dioecious moss, male reproductive cells develop on some moss specimens, and female reproductive cells develop on other moss specimens.

Heads of woven branches are a distinctive feature of sphagnum moss

The development cycle of sphagnum moss is similar to that of other mosses. Sex cells are formed on the gametophyte plant. After their fusion, a sporogon is formed at the site of the egg, in the capsule of which spores ripen. The germinated spore will give rise to a new gametophyte.

Sphagnum moss constantly grows at the top. And it constantly dies off in its lower part. He is always in motion - upward, towards the light. And the dying lower part turns into peat.

Actually, only the tip of the moss shoot is green. The lower part of it, immersed in water, looks whitish. And even lower the moss turns light brown.

A bunch of sphagnum moss removed from a moss cushion

Sphagnum does not have rhizoids - thin threads that replace moss roots. It doesn’t need them, because moss spends most of its life in water and absorbs it with the entire surface of its body. And if there is not enough water, it is able to actively store it.

Under a microscope you can see that not all cells of sphagnum moss are filled with living contents. Many of them are dead and are connected to the external environment by pores. It is thanks to such cells that sphagnum moss can store water that weighs 20 times more than the plant itself. Like a sponge!

This is where its scientific name comes from - “sphagnos” in Greek and means sponge. Why did this moss – green or reddish in its upper part – receive the Russian name “white moss”? The fact is that when moss dries, dead cells lose water and fill with air. Then the moss turns white.

How sphagnum moss creates swamps

Yes, that’s how it creates! In some lowland this moss appears and grows. And it absorbs water. And then it grows, forming a layer of peat underneath. You look - in place of the lowland there is already a continuous carpet of sphagnum, sometimes already higher than the surrounding area. And the moss begins to spread further, displacing other plants. And the fact that the soil in its habitat is always wetter and more acidic, which is good for moss, but not so much for others. And the fact that moss grows very unitedly - after all, its stems, with their branches sticking out in all directions, hold on to each other.

And now, in place of the sphagnum carpet, there is a small sphagnum bog, which over time will turn into a real raised bog. Dying sphagnum contains significant amounts of organic acids. They become part of the peat, preventing its further decomposition and preserving deposited organic matter. The swamp grows, displacing the surrounding forest.

I will definitely tell you more about the role of swamps in nature and our lives later. In the meantime, I recommend subscribing to blog updates so as not to miss new articles.

How is sphagnum moss harvested?

As mentioned earlier, sphagnum moss grows in swampy areas. To take advantage of its amazing properties in practice, you must adhere to certain rules for the preparation and storage of a plant of this type.

Sphagnum moss must be collected carefully. It is advisable to trim it with scissors and leave the top in the soil for further growth and development. The collected material should be treated with boiling water to disinfect and eliminate all larvae located in the leaves. Despite this, this procedure retains beneficial features and micronutrients. Drying is best done in the sun. Drying in special drying machines where it is not completely dried is strictly prohibited. If sphagnum moss is to be used medical purposes, then it is important to dry it completely. If you need this moss to grow plants, then you don’t have to dry it at all. As a preventive measure, it should be placed in the freezer for a couple of days to destroy all germs and larvae.

When living in that climatic zone where this plant does not grow, you should not worry too much, because Many agricultural companies are engaged in its cultivation and sale. Today you can buy it in almost every flower shop.

Using sphagnum moss as part of the soil

Most often, sphagnum moss is used as the main component of the soil mixture. When growing orchids, it is a key component, because... bactericidal properties not only protect young roots and shoots, but also cure diseased parts of the plant. Before filling the flower container with it, it is important to scald it and dry it a little, pour it well mineral fertilizer and dry. After this, you need to keep it for 4-5 days in an airtight container. And only after that it becomes suitable for further use and growing healthy and strong orchids.

As for preparing a substrate for growing orchids, this will require not only moss, but also pine bark with charcoal. These ingredients are great for styling the plant's rhizomes. The top coating should be slightly different.

Among other things, sphagnum moss is actively used in gardening as drainage, bedding for pots, top soil and wrapping rhizomes. You can wrap bulbs in it for winter storage or to fight almost all fungal diseases.

Peculiarities

The lower leaves contain a large number of hollow dead cells that easily absorb water from the soil (20 times their own weight).

The second layer consists of small, single-layer leaves up to 2 mm long, living and producing chlorophyll. Long and narrow, they are located between the water-bearing petals.

Moss grows very slowly, only a few centimeters per year, Moreover, the processes of growth and decomposition occur simultaneously. Every year the lower stems die off, and due to the lack of oxygen, acidic environment and constant humidity, peat is obtained.

The merit of sphagnum is that it creates so-called raised bogs (receiving moisture from the air), consisting of a dense, constantly accumulating layer of peat. There are no dangerous bogs in such swamps.

Reproduction

Reproduce by offspring and spores in July and August. The spores are located on stalks in yellowish boxes, spherical and with a falling cap. But reproduction by offspring predominates, when the strongest branch separates and grows independently.

Various plant species can be either dioecious or monoecious. Antheridia and archegonia (male and female reproductive organs) are always found on different shoots. There are two generations of mosses, of which the sexual phase (gametophyte) predominates over the asexual phase (saprophyte).

Application of sphagnum

1. From the 11th century to this day, moss used as a dressing material. It absorbs liquid perfectly and also has bactericidal properties, accelerating wound healing. We owe this to a special substance, sphagnol. Nowadays, moss is sterilized before use.
2. It is used as bedding for livestock, for fuel and as a heat-insulating material (in walls, cracks).
3. In both folk and official medicine, moss is used to treat intestinal diseases, rheumatism and stopping bleeding. Thanks to the carbolic acid it contains, it stops the growth of many harmful microorganisms.
4. Wide used in floriculture as a filler for earthen mixtures, as it prevents rotting of plant roots and makes the soil looser and lighter.
5. In an equal mixture with manure it excellent fertilizer.

Sphagnum moss

Orchids generally love sphagnum moss. Their roots grow quickly in it. Even an orchid with rotting roots can be saved by using sphagnum moss as the main substrate.

Moss is also suitable for a cover layer or as a soil additive. This is useful for orchids that love moisture. The substrate will dry out more slowly and retain moisture longer. If the sphagnum moss has become salty, you just need to replace it with a new one.

Orchids grown on blocks will also benefit from sphagnum moss. It promotes the growth of roots to the block. But there are some subtleties here. About six months after planting, algae may grow on the moss and salt deposits may appear. The moss itself crumbles and crumbles. As a result, there is practically none left. But he completed his task. The plant is tightly attached to the block.

Sphagnum moss is used along with bark for orchids that live in pots. They may develop new shoots on the surface of the substrate. And so that they do not dry out, they should be covered with moss. By the way, if the plant lives in a perforated pot, especially for aquatic specimens. Here you need more sphagnum than usual.

Moss Yagel or Thallus lichen

A little more about moss. There is very dense gray moss. This is a layer of Citraria islandica Hepatica lichen. There is also a simpler name: moss. You can buy it in phytodesign stores. It's quite brittle. But many orchid lovers use it to drain inside softer moss. You can add broken bricks to this layer for stability.

Bark for Orchids

Bark, especially pine bark, can also act as a substrate. They usually collect it in the forest. Naturally, you cannot strip the bark from living trees. But old hemp will not work either. They have it all eaten away by bugs and won’t last long. The best option is to find recently cut down trees. Their bark is already falling away from the trunk, but is still quite fresh. Before using the bark, it must be disinfected. To get rid of various pests. Boil the bark for 15 minutes. Many people recommend doing this three times, changing the water. You can also keep it in the oven or steam it. However, with this method there is a danger of introducing woodlice or wood lice.

Of course, the use of bark is not limited to pine. It's just easier to find. But spruce bark is also good. Many people use the bark of thuja, larch or pine nut husks. But these species are more difficult to find.

Where can I get bark?

For example, you can look for a carpentry shop. For them it is production waste. So it is unlikely that they will ask for a lot of money for it. Or maybe they’ll even give it as a gift. You can also buy bark at the store for exotic plants. The packages here are small, but the bark is clean.

Another option is to ask the forestry department. They usually have deposits of wood. You can find out the telephone numbers of forest districts in a directory, through some environmental organization, or on the Internet.

Many people prefer to make the blanks themselves. It's comfortable. After all, you can make bark of different fractions, based on the specific needs of the plants. All sorts of improvised means are used here. Meat grinders, knives, secateurs, metal scissors. Some even grind the bark by hand.

Which to choose

It is best to opt for live sphagnum moss, which can be used not only for orchids, but also for others indoor plants. It, unlike dry, does not need to be soaked for a long time and treated with an insecticide. In addition, it is perfectly stored in bags in a cold place for several months. Even after freezing, which allows you to preserve the plant for a longer time, it does not lose its beneficial properties.

Dry sphagnum retains moisture well and provides ventilation. It can be placed at the very bottom of the container with the plant, in the soil, or on top. Sphagnum will perfectly retain the moisture your orchid needs, even if you cannot water the flower on time, and retain the warmth it needs.

Sphagnum moss, what is it?

Sphagnum is a type of moss that grows in swampy soil and forest areas. The place where moss grows is considered to be South America, but 42 species also grow in Russia. Sphagnum moss is collected in the summer, dried and used for arranging terrariums and containers in which they keep their domestic mollusks.

For snail breeders, sphagnum moss is an ideal soil, as it has a unique hygroscopic and breathable ability. In addition, it has:

• bactericidal, antimycotic and disinfectant effects;
• very environmentally friendly;
• maintains humidity in the terrarium;
• convenient and easy to use;
• serves as food for snails.

Where to buy sphagnum moss

You can go to any flower shop for moss, where it is called “Moss for Orchids”. It is also sold in any online store for gardeners or snail breeders. A more budget option can be found on Avito or another free bulletin board.

If your budget is completely limited, you can go to the nearby forest to collect moss. Sphagnum does not have a root system, so collecting it will not be difficult. Just when collecting, do not forget to clean it of twigs, needles and various bugs.

How to use snail moss

Sphagnum moss is used as an ecological bedding for keeping Achatina snails. It can be placed on top of a coconut substrate or synthetic padding mat. Using this type of bedding, your snails are reliably protected from pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms. Its service life is no more than 1 month. Snails thrive and grow on such bedding.

Sphagnum moss is successfully used to decorate a snail's terrarium. Small hummocks are made from it, the entire soil is lined, a snail’s shelter is decorated, etc.

Experienced snail breeders use sphagnum moss as a living hygrometer. For example, if there is enough moisture in the terrarium, the moss is green, but if it begins to turn yellow, it means it is very dry.

The Achatina snail living at home may lack vitamins and microelements. Therefore, do not be surprised if your pets eat moss, because dried sphagnum moss is often added to snail food.

Sometimes sphagnum moss is used to fill a transportable container with Achatina. You don’t have to worry about the snail during transportation. Moss serves as a soft shock absorber and tasty food for her.

How to prepare sphagnum moss for Achatina

Sphagnum moss is easy to prepare; even a child can handle it. To do this, just soak it in clean water for a day. All debris, bugs and worms will settle to the bottom. Then the squeezed moss can be poured hot water, but don't overdo it. Boiling water kills living moss and reduces its beneficial properties.

You can prepare sphagnum for future use yourself:

• clean it of debris, twigs and bugs;
• thoroughly rinse or soak the moss in water;
• Gently squeeze out the water and lay it out to dry on the balcony;
• dry sphagnum is stored in plastic bags and used as needed.

Dried sphagnum, purchased or prepared yourself, can be sprinkled with water. Or soak in water for several hours, then squeeze out the water and put it wet on the snails. Typically, such moss serves Achatina for no more than a month.

Watch a video on how to prepare moss for Achatina snails

So, sphagnum moss can not only be bought, but also collected in our forests. They can be used to beautifully decorate a snail’s terrarium, while keeping its body and container walls always clean. Moss maintains the required humidity in the terrarium well and acts as a living hygrometer. At the same time, it has a bactericidal effect. Sphagnum moss is not only beautiful, but also useful for Achatina snails.

If you disagree with something or know more information about the use and use of sphagnum moss by snail breeders, write in the comments.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's highlight the main advantages of such a filler for snails as moss:

• it's environmental natural material, in which pests do not infest if properly processed;
• absorbs and retains moisture well;
• pets kept in it always remain clean;
• very easy to handle and use;
• can be used several times, just rinse it;
• it is easy to clean the terrarium if there are many shellfish in one container;
• there is no period of adaptation; snails like to burrow into it and under it if moss is used in combination with other substrates. And sometimes snails can snack on moss;
• well suited for incubating clutches.

What disadvantages can be identified?

• relatively high price, if you use snail moss as the main filler, since one mollusc may require several liters of such filler;
• such a filler may not last long, about the same as a coconut substrate;
• There is information that moss aggravates the problem of ticks.

How to store

If you have collected a large amount of moss and were unable to use it all at once, then try the following storage methods.

1. Freezing. Soak the moss in water until all the living creatures float to the surface, squeeze it out, place it in a plastic bag and put it in the freezer. If necessary, remove, defrost, rinse thoroughly, or scald with boiling water to avoid uninvited guests. Next, squeeze it out and put it in the terrarium. Moss can be stored in the freezer for about a year.
2. Cold storage. You can also store moss in the refrigerator in the vegetable compartment in a tightly tied bag or in another cool place. Before storage, you need to sort it out of debris, soak it in warm water for half an hour, and then put it in bags. When stored this way, it remains alive for about 3-4 months.
3. Drying. The moss needs to be sorted out, washed, squeezed out and spread on any suitable surface to dry. You need to dry it in a dark place and not in direct sunlight. Before use, you need to soak it in water so that it is saturated with moisture, and only then squeeze it out and put it in the snail’s mollusc. Dry sphagnum can be stored for a long time, but it will no longer come to life and turn green.

In some cases, the moss in the terrarium not only lies as bedding, but also germinates and grows remarkably.

The subclass includes one order Sphagnales, one family Sphagnaceae with one genus Sphagnum, which unites over 300 species, which are often quite difficult to distinguish morphologically.

Sphagnum mosses are perennial plants. They are characterized by a number of morphological, anatomical and biological features, due to which they are noticeably different from other bryophytes (Fig. 3).

The main stem (caulidium) is weak, usually simple or falsely dichotomously branched, sparsely leafy. As a result of uniform lateral branching, densely leafy lateral branches of subsequent orders are located on it with a certain periodicity in a bunch-like manner (from 2 to 7). As a result, a three-dimensional system of shoots is formed with the main stem in the middle. It is characterized by unlimited apical growth.

In sphagnum there are three types of lateral branches. At the top of the stem they are short, more or less densely crowded, with leaves closely spaced. Gametangia are formed mainly on them. These are apical lateral branches.

As the stem grows, the internodes increase and the bundles of lateral branches move apart. Within each bundle, there is a distinction between their spatial location and function. Most of the lateral branches of the bunch occupy a horizontal or slightly inclined position. Intertwining with similar lateral branches of neighboring plants, they help maintain the main stem in an upright position. As a result, a large, dense clump or turf is formed, light green, sometimes reddish, brownish, or purple in color. Leaves on horizontal lateral branches are more sparse than on vertical ones.

There are also thinner and longer hanging side branches that fit quite tightly to the main stem. The leaves on them are also more sparse. Hanging side branches help absorb water from the surface and from the soil and quickly transport it to the top of the main stem due to capillarity. An adult plant has no rhizoids.

Being perennial plants, sphagnum mosses never reach large sizes. U different types the height of the main shoots ranges from 5 to 20 cm. This is due to the fact that as the young parts of the shoot grow, its lower part dies off annually.

Small sphagnum leaves (2–3 mm long) are attached at a wide base. They are dimorphic, branched and not similar to the leaves of the main stem. The main assimilation function is performed by the leaves of the apical and horizontal lateral branches. The leaves of sphagnum are single-layered, lacking a midrib, but at the same time they are highly specialized. They differ from the leaves of all other plants by their elegant, uniformly reticulate structure. They are formed by cells of two kinds (Fig. 3). Some cells are living, green; narrow, long, slightly curved in shape - chlorophyll-bearing. Their main function is photosynthesis. Between them are located larger aquiferous or hyaline cells, occupying up to 2/3 of the leaf surface. They are devoid of contents, permeated with pores of various shapes and sizes in different species. Pores can be simple or bordered. Their number and location in the cell also vary. For some species, these signs may be strictly constant. The primary shells of aquifer cells are thickened from the inside with secondary deposits in the form of rings or spirals, consisting of the colloidal substance hyaline. Hence their second name - hyaline cells. This structure of aquifer cells provides the plant with rapid absorption and conduction of water with minerals dissolved in it, and colloidal hyaline, which has the ability to swell greatly, firmly retains moisture. During dry periods, moisture evaporates from the aquifer cells, and hyaline thickenings prevent the cells from collapsing. Aquifer cells are colorless. Since chlorophyll-bearing cells occupy only 1/3 of the leaf surface, the color of many plant species is light green. Therefore, sphagnum mosses are often called white mosses.

There are three types of tissues in the stem of sphagnum mosses: hyaloderma, mechanical tissue and parenchyma (Fig. 3). There is no rudiment of the conducting bundle. The central part of the stem is occupied by a core formed by fairly large thin-walled parenchyma cells. To the periphery is the bark part of the stem, divided into inner and outer. The inner cortex is represented by several rows of narrow prosenchymal cells elongated along the longitudinal axis with highly thickened walls of a brownish color. Inner cortex often also called a “wood cylinder”, since the mechanical tissue gives the stem a certain strength. It usually occupies a small part of the stem, which is why sphagnum stems are weak. The function of the outer cortex (hyaloderm) is to absorb and retain water. It is formed by 2–5 layers of hyaline, or aquifer cells. They have a similar structure to similar leaf cells. These are large dead transparent cells with spiral or ringed hyaline thickenings of thin primary membranes. They also have through holes (pores) on all walls. Due to the open connection of cells with each other and with the external environment, sphagnum hyoloderma represents a continuous system of capillaries. Water can spread into neighboring cells in all directions. The hyaline cells of the outermost layer are smaller, but have the same structure as those located deeper. They are of epidermal origin.

Due to the presence of aquifer cells in the structure of the leaf and stem, the presence of hanging branches that form a kind of cover (wick) around the stem, water quickly moves along the main and side shoots. It has been established that certain species absorb water 20–30 or more times more than their own dry mass (cotton wool only 4–6 times) and retain it firmly. Thus, the anatomical and morphological features of sphagnum largely ensure the constancy of the humid environment in which they live. High hygroscopicity explains the rapid settlement of territories by sphagnum and the development of swamps in the areas where they settle.

Sphagnum mosses can be dioecious or monoecious plants. Male and female gametangia always develop on different specialized lateral generative shoots. They are located at the top of the main shoot in bunches together with vegetative shoots. Antheridia and archegonia develop more often at the ends of short apical lateral branches. The antheridial branches differ quite sharply from the vegetative ones by being somewhat thicker. Wide imbricated overlapping leaves, in the axils of which antheridia develop, are arranged in regular rows. However, the most striking differences are due to the fact that these leaves have a different color - yellowish, reddish or dark green. The antheridia of sphagnum mosses in appearance, structure and method of opening are more reminiscent of the antheridia of leafy jungermanniiformes than of green mosses. They are located on long legs, alternating with leaves; spherical or oval in shape, covered with a single-layer wall. When sperm mature, the wall of the upper part of the antheridium breaks into several blades, which curl outward. A large number of long, thread-like, spirally twisted biflagellate sperm emerge from the opened antheridium.

Archegonia are usually located in small groups (2–4) at the tops of short lateral branches (apical and partially horizontal), surrounded by large integumentary leaves. The short archegonial branches of sphagnum moss look like vegetative buds. Archegonia have the same structure as the archegonia of green mosses. They alternate with filiform paraphyses.

The gametangia of sphagnum mosses mature in autumn. Fertilization occurs in the fall or spring of the following year. The archegonium, which began to develop earlier than others, suppresses the development of the others. Therefore, only one sporogon develops on the lateral branches. Haustoria invades the gametophyte tissue. The young sporogon is covered on top with a thin, transparent, overgrown archegonium abdominal wall. The leg of the sporogon is very short and it almost does not protrude from the surrounding integumentary leaves. As the sporogon develops, the apex of the archegonial shoot, into which the haustorium is immersed, becomes strongly elongated and carries the capsule quite high. This elongated part of the stem of the lateral shoot of the gametophyte, devoid of leaves, is called a false stalk (since it is not formed by sporophyte tissues). The true leg is often reduced to a constriction between the haustorium and the capsule. As the capsule grows, the abdominal wall of the archegonium first stretches in length and then breaks in the middle part. The upper part of the abdomen, together with the remains of the neck, forms a transparent cap covering the top of the capsule. In sphagnum mosses the cap is shed early and is hardly noticeable. As noted above, the lower part of the abdominal wall of the archegonium in the form of a collar remains at the base of the capsule, morphologically distinguishing the tissues of the sporophyte and gametophyte.

The wall of the box is multilayered. The epidermis of the wall contains many underdeveloped (reduced?) stomata. The epidermal cells of the immature boll contain chloroplasts, so the young sphagnum moss sporogon partly feeds on its own. Central, most of The capsule is occupied by a massive shortened hemispherical column consisting of large parenchyma cells. The column does not reach the top of the capsule and a peculiarly curved cavity is placed above it, in which the sporangium with spores is located. In the upper part of the box, a vaguely defined round cap is differentiated. Its border is marked by a ring formed by lower epidermal cells with thin-walled membranes. By the time the spores mature, the column and other thin-walled tissues of the capsule are destroyed. A large cavity is formed, which is filled with spores coming from the sporangium.

A mature sphagnum boll is spherical, shiny, and varies from red to blackish-brown in color in different species. Spores usually ripen in July and August, less often earlier - April and May. As the spores mature, the wall of the capsule shrinks. There is a decrease in its transverse diameter. The longitudinal dimensions of the box remain the same. Its spherical shape gives way to almost cylindrical. This leads to a decrease in its volume and an increase in internal pressure. The lid is thrown away with great force. The air escaping outside carries the spores out of the box. This occurs in warm sunny weather. The spores are carried by the wind. Sphagnum mosses do not have a peristome.

Sphagnum spores are round-tetrahedral, triradiate, covered with two shells. The outer one (exosporium) is thick, dark brown, smooth. The inner (endosporium) is thin and colorless. The average size of isospores is about 20–30 µm.

In nature, mass seeding of spores is observed. Under suitable conditions, the spore germinates, forming a lobed lamellar protonema (pre-protonema), up to 1 cm in size. Some marginal cells of the bottom of the protonema form colorless, delicate multicellular single-row branching rhizoids, which are absent in the adult plant. They attach the pregrowth to the substrate and also serve to absorb and conduct water and dissolved substances. On the upper side of the pre-shoot, one or several buds are most often formed, which later develop into leafy main shoots of the gametophyte.

Young shoots formed on the protonema are densely covered with small leaves. Multicellular rhizoids develop at the base of young shoots. With the beginning of shoot branching, the formation of new rhizoids stops. Mature plants are completely devoid of them. At the level of 4–5 leaves of a young shoot, a lateral bud is formed. Having begun to develop further, it is repeatedly dismembered and as a result a whorl of lateral branches is formed. Young leaf buds are formed by uniform green diamond-shaped cells. Later, as the leaf develops, their differentiation into chlorophyll-bearing and water-bearing cells begins.

Sphagnum plants are characterized by enhanced vegetative reproduction. Sphagnum protonemas are capable of vegetative reproduction (marginal cells can develop into filaments that give rise to new lamellar precursors). Each of which can develop several main shoots. Therefore, sphagnum mosses grow in dense clumps, forming a continuous, tightly closed carpet on the soil surface (often over large areas).

Some lateral branches, located under the top of the main shoot, grow faster than others and, with the gradual death of the stem from below, give rise to a new shoot (are isolated as a separate plant). The falsely dichotomously branched main stem, when the lower integral part dies, forms two young plants. Fragments of damaged stems also give rise to new plants. In undamaged plants, the development of young plants from old parts of the stem was also observed. Under experimental conditions, secondary protonema and the development of new individuals were obtained from all parts of the plant.

Dead parts of sphagnum mosses do not completely decompose due to watering, lack of oxygen and other reasons. Watering is due to the fact that the tightly closed turf, characterized by its unique structure, ensures a high standing border of capillary water. During their life, sphagnum mosses also form many water-soluble organic acids (oxalic, malic, succinic, citric) and acidify the environment. Hyaline also exhibits an acidic reaction. This is also facilitated by the ion exchange of sphagnum (hydrogen ions are released). In the central part of the raised bog the pH is often below 4, which is unusual for natural habitats. Phenolic compounds of sphagnum also inhibit the bacterial flora, the development of fungi and ensure high preservation of dead parts. This explains the antiseptic properties of sphagnum. In medicine and veterinary medicine, sphagnum was previously used as a dressing material (especially in wartime - sphagnum-gauze dressings were prepared, which contributed to the rapid healing of wounds and abscesses). The excellent absorbent properties of moss also contribute to healing.

Under anaerobic conditions (in an acidified environment supersaturated with moisture), poorly decomposed residues accumulate in the form of peat. Due to the process of trophic accumulation, sphagnums are often called peat mosses. Sphagnum magellanicum (S. magellanicum) and p. brown (S. fuscum) are the main peat formers in the raised bogs of the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere.

As noted, peat has a variety of uses in economic activity person. Dry sphagnum moss and peat are used for bedding for domestic animals, peat is used as a raw material for the manufacture of thermal insulation boards, for the production of feed yeast, and for the preparation of composts. High bog peat is a sterile substrate for greenhouse vegetable and ornamental plants. It can contain any complex of micro- and macroelements. You can adjust the acidity. Pathogens do not develop on it. Gardeners often mix the soil with sphagnum moss to increase its water-holding capacity and acidity.

Significant reserves of peat are used as chemical-technological raw materials for the production of various waxes, activated carbons, technical alcohol, polymer fillers, catalysts, organic dyes and many others. In recent decades, the use of especially valuable peats for medicinal purposes - peat-mud baths, and the production of medicines - has gained recognition.

Sphagnum mosses are powerful environment-formers. By increasing the acidity of the habitat and synthesizing phenolic compounds, they have a strong influence on the biochemical relationships with other plants. Products of incomplete decomposition harmful to plants (humic acids, methane, hydrogen sulfide) accumulate in peat. Due to the weak decomposition of plant residues, the soils of raised bogs are poor in mineral nutrition elements. They are also characterized by excess moisture, poor water and heat conductivity, and lack of oxygen. Lack of nitrogen nutrition leads to disruption of the regulatory mechanisms of water metabolism in plants. The constant growth of peat allows plants capable of constant new organ formation (adventitious roots, renewal buds) to live in raised bogs. Moss turf often does not allow the roots to reach the soil surface and the seedlings of many plants die. Thus, the living conditions in sphagnum (raised) bogs are unfavorable for most plants. Their floristic composition is poor.

The genus Sphagnum is cosmopolitan. Sphagnum mosses are widely distributed across the globe, from tropical to arctic and subantarctic regions. In the tropics they are found only in the mountains. They are widely represented on the plains of temperate and cold zones, especially in the Northern Hemisphere, occupying vast areas in Eurasia and North America. In the northern half of the forest zone, the forest-tundra, they form extensive raised and transitional swamps. In the tundra zone their composition changes; the role of sphagnum in the composition of the vegetation cover sharply decreases (green mosses begin to predominate among bryophytes). Sphagnum moss is also quite widespread in the temperate latitudes of the Southern Hemisphere - in the swamps of New Zealand, about. Tasmania, South America(Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego). Here they live more often high in the mountains (mostly on the border of the forest), less often on the plains. In the Andes, sphagnum moss occurs up to an altitude of 4,200 m above sea level.

Compared to other bryophytes, sphagnums are characterized by a narrow ecological amplitude (raised and transitional bogs, swampy, predominantly coniferous forests). By settling in wet habitats, many species of sphagnum (as well as green) contribute to the rapid swamping of these territories, due to the peculiarities of their structure and physiology. The acidic reaction of the substrate is often necessary for the growth and development of sphagnum. Their spores germinate only on an acidic substrate.

There are 35 species of sphagnum in Belarus. The most famous are the village. Magellan, p. narrow-leaved (S. angustifolium), p. oak forest (S. nemoreum), p. protruding (S. squarrosum). Two species are listed in the Red Book. They predominate in raised and many transitional swamps, are widespread in shady swampy forests, less often in wet meadows and lowland swamps. The distribution of bogs containing sphagnum mosses on the territory of Belarus is zonal. From north to south their areas decrease sharply.

Sphagnums constitute a clearly defined group of higher spore plants, which separated very long ago from the main line of evolution of bryophytes. Based on a low evolutionary level, they went through a long path of fine specialization, which ensured the formation and improvement of the external conduction system. Their active absorption and promotion of water is based solely on physical, not physiological laws. Like many liver mosses, they are characterized by a water regime that is extremely unique for higher plants (the so-called poikilohydric type). However, compared to liverworts, Sphagnums have formed new anatomical and morphological structures and adaptations - water-bearing cells of the leaf and stem, differentiation of hanging lateral branches, etc. The process of water supply in Sphagnaceae is more diverse and biologically more advantageous. The water regime of evolutionarily more advanced, compared to sphagnum, higher plants with an internal conducting system (mosses, horsetails and subsequent groups) is based on physiological laws. In the process of evolution, they formed even more highly organized structures, allowing them to perfectly use the moisture of drier habitats.

Over the 10 years of working with violets, we tried to root them in different ways - in the ground, in a soil mixture, in a soilless substrate, in water... But we got the best results when rooting leaf cuttings of violets in pure living sphagnum with wick irrigation. Now we only use this type of rooting.

So what is this mysterious sphagnum moss?

Sphagnum (Sphagnum, sphagnum, peat moss, white moss) is a perennial bog moss that forms so-called sphagnum bogs. More than 40 of its species are known in Russia, and more than 300 in the world. It is found mainly in the tundra and forest zones of the Northern Hemisphere; in the Southern Hemisphere it grows high in the mountains; less common on temperate plains. Its peculiarity is that it actually has no roots - its lower part gradually dies off and turns into peat, while the upper part continues to grow. Sphagnum moss is also called “white moss”, and the places where it grows are called “white moss”. On Wikipedia it is described as follows: “Sphagnum (lat. Sphagnum) is a marsh plant, a genus of moss (usually whitish in color).” That is, you should not worry when you receive not green, but yellowish-white moss in the mail. The main thing is that it is alive (and the color does not matter). When watered and warm, it will begin to grow and turn green (for example, when leaf cuttings are rooted in it).

Properties of sphagnum

Perhaps it is worth highlighting 3 main properties of sphagnum:

1. amazing hygroscopicity
2. excellent breathability
3. antibacterial properties

Hygroscopicity- this is the property of sphagnum moss to absorb water in huge quantities: up to 20 parts by weight of water per one part by weight of sphagnum! And this is 6 times higher than the abilities of vata! Moreover, sphagnum evenly it is saturated with water, and only after that it releases excess moisture. That is, when used as part of soil mixtures, it will always maintain a sufficient level of moisture in the substrate without waterlogging the soil! This property is achieved by the structure of the moss itself - its stem and leaves contain hollow air-bearing reservoir cells, thanks to which sphagnum absorbs water over its entire surface and retains it for a long time!

Breathability caused by the same hollow cells. That is, the soil with the addition of sphagnum turns out to be quite moist, but at the same time light and loose, which contributes to the well-being of the plant root system!

Antibacterial, disinfectant and antifungal properties are provided by substances that make up sphagnum: bactericidal phenol-like substance sphagnol, antibiotics (sphagnum acids), coumarins, triterpene compounds, etc. All these antiseptic properties are used even in medicine, and what can we say about plants! Percentage of cuttings rotting when propagated in sphagnum lowest compared to all other methods!

And according to available data, sphagnum itself not susceptible to any diseases!

In addition to these properties of sphagnum, it is also necessary to note its ability moderately acidify the soil due to the release of hydrogen ions. This again prevents the development of bacteria, and violets in acidified soil often produce a more saturated color and pronounced border, and in general they feel better in acidic soil! :)

And due to the fact that sphagnum retains water in the substrate and prevents the access of oxygen to organic deposits in it, the processes of decomposition of organic compounds (rotting) do not occur. This is also ensured due to the fact that the sphagnum itself contains extremely few nutrients, which slows down decomposition even more!

By the way, all parts of sphagnum(from roots to crown) have these properties.

Application of sphagnum

Sphagnum is used in many sectors of life (laying log houses, transporting root crops, floristry, medicine, detergents and disinfectants, etc.). But of course, it finds its main application in floriculture!

Sphagnum moss is suitable for many plants, such as:

• Saintpaulias (Usambara violets)
• gloxinia
• streptocarpus
• begonias, royal begonias
• orchids
• dracaenas
• Dieffenbachia
• monsters
• peperomia
• sedums
• ehveria
• Crassula
• sansevieria
• Cordyline
• Khirits
• and many others - those that love high humidity.

I’ll tell you how to use moss for violets in a separate article, “Using sphagnum moss in caring for violets.”

Harvesting sphagnum

Typically, sphagnum moss is harvested from late April to October. However, spring harvesting can be complicated by high levels of meltwater. And in mid-June and early July, blood-sucking insects are most active, making it very difficult to collect moss in the swamp. We try to harvest moss in August, subject to dry and relatively warm weather. A rainy autumn can disrupt the harvest due to the impossibility of weathering in humid air, and collecting moss in the rain is not the most pleasant experience.

You can collect sphagnum two ways:

1. completely removing it along with the roots (this makes it larger in volume, but it requires a long, thorough cleaning);
2. cutting off the upper surface part with a knife - it turns out smaller, longer, but better;

For collecting sphagnum You will need:

• A swamp or damp forest with a lot of sphagnum, and preferably not far from where the car is parked (wet moss is difficult to carry).
• Rubber boots
• Plastic bags
• Plaster (the number of cuts can be large - I know from myself! And mostly not from a knife, but from sedge, which often grows through sphagnum).
• Gloves (they are not so convenient to work in, but they still protect your hands)

Moss should be harvested in “clearings” about 30 cm wide and at the same intervals - this will make it easier for it to recover and grow. According to the rules, repeated harvesting in such an area is possible no earlier than in 7-10 years!

Wet sphagnum squeeze out to get rid of excess water.
For the same purpose you can weather moss, but do not dry it (if you need it alive): spread it in an even layer on a north/west window sill or even outside in the shade and wait until the wind dries the main part of the sphagnum. The main thing is not to overdo it! There must be moss moist but not wet.

Processing/sterilization of sphagnum

As for processing moss, you need to decide what kind of sphagnum you want to get - live or dry. We use only. Moreover, we don’t treat it with anything, since it itself has disinfectant properties, which are lost when scalded, completely dried and heated. And in all the years of working with him, we have never had any problems due to his fault.

Preservation of sphagnum

To keep sphagnum alive, it must be stored in closed plastic bags in frost or cold(refrigerator or freezer), we store it outside. When necessary, defrost it and it will come to life! Everything is as in natural conditions! You can still grow moss: cut off the green parts of the moss and place them in a tray with wet peat, remembering to water constantly. They say it looks beautiful! :)

Purchasing/purchasing sphagnum

And of course, the simplest thing is to buy moss, saving yourself from unnecessary worries, troubles and difficulties! When ordering on the website you will receive a parcel with live weathered (but not dry), hand-peeled sphagnum moss,packed in a zip bag. All you have to do is add approximately 200 ml of water (based on 2 liters of moss), and use live sphagnum as needed!