Air ventilation in a private house. Disadvantages of modern forced supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery. Features of the ventilation system


To ensure the natural microclimate in the house, the system must function well natural ventilation air streams. It is able to provide a comfortable level of living. Mold, dampness, fungus, humidity - it is ventilation that successfully copes with these problems.

History pages

From the very beginning of its existence, man has striven for comfort. In ancient times, people noticed that when being in a confined space, the air loses its beneficial features. This leads to a deterioration in human health. Ways to eliminate this problem gave rise to the beginning of the "epoch of ventilation".

The first mention of the air circulation system dates back to the times of Ancient Egypt. The way to solve the problem was to cut through the windows in the walls or completely demolish them.

In the Middle Ages, the system of furnace heating of buildings was actively spread. To get rid of excess smoke in the room, a new technology construction. So, the windows in the building had to be wide, and the height of the ceilings exceeded 3 m.

The era of the origin of the forced air ventilation system was the 18th century, when the first indoor fan was invented in England.

At the beginning of the 20th century in European countries A decree was passed on the compulsory installation of ventilation systems in all premises.

Within the territory of modern Russia the natural method of ventilation of the premises was actively used. The main building material was wood, which was able to pass air currents well. There were gaps in the walls, openings through which air could also freely pass. Due to the natural circulation of air flows, the entire room was ventilated.

The ventilation system in a private house or apartment building today is a technically advanced technology that provides the maximum level of comfort.

Do we need ventilation?

After a hard day at work, we hurry home. Only there we can relax and rejuvenate. For a comfortable stay, the following factors must be present in the room:

  • Favorable microclimate.
  • Fresh air.
  • No dust and dirt.
  • Optimal temperature.

To achieve the most comfortable environment, a properly installed ventilation system in a private house or in an apartment building is necessary.

But it's not just about comfort. Why else do we need a natural air circulation system? Consider the main aspects:

  • The use of products containing GMOs, poor ecology, a high risk of developing diseases destroy the human immune system. This leads to allergic reactions. Natural ventilation in a private house and in an apartment building will avoid this.
  • Unfortunately, most modern living quarters were built during the Soviet period. The layout of such buildings implies a minimum level of use of ventilation systems. natural circulation air flow in such buildings is carried out due to open doors and windows.
  • The increase in the level of heat in the room is facilitated by the installation of plastic windows and wall insulation. However, this leads to excessive sealing of the room. To achieve the optimal microclimate in such a room, it is necessary additional installation forced ventilation system.
  • Many people have pets. Faithful, kind friends are always ready to support a person. However, do not forget that they are subject to molting. Wool particles accumulate in the living room. This leads to a deterioration in the microclimate in the house. To get rid of them, you need to install an air circulation system.


Ventilation device in a private house

If in apartment buildings the air circulation system is installed by specialists during construction works, then in a private house this work falls on the shoulders of the residents themselves. Therefore, before you start building or repairing a private house on your own, you need to study the basic principle of the air circulation complex:

  • When building a house, a vertical air duct is installed in the wall of each room.
  • It is necessary to mount pipes in them for the passage of air flows. They should be connected to each other.
  • The piping system must have access to the roof of the building.
  • There for air outlet is mounted high pipe. It must be well strengthened and protected from pollution. To do this, you can install an umbrella or a tent over the pipe. The grate installed on it will also prevent dirt from entering the pipe.


Features of the ventilation system

  • Natural ventilation in a private house is achieved due to the difference in air pressure inside the room and outside. In the cold season, her work is carried out independently. In spring and summer, for optimal circulation of air flows, a forced ventilation system is required.
  • The efficiency of the complex increases in windy weather.
  • In winter, an actively working ventilation system helps to reduce the level of heat in the room.
  • Do not forget about installing a ventilation system in the basement. Air circulation here will allow you to get rid of harmful and poisonous fumes emanating from the earth's surface.

Performing the installation yourself

How to make ventilation in a private house with your own hands? Many people think that it is worth entrusting the work to professionals. In fact, everyone can install an air circulation system in the house on their own. You only need to follow the basic installation rules. Before starting work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the main features of the integrated air circulation.

Ventilation. Main types

Consider a private house. Ventilation in it should be carried out in two interchangeable ways:

  1. Natural air circulation.
  2. Forced air circulation system in the room.

To achieve the ideal microclimate in the room, it is imperative to install both natural and forced airflow control systems.


Features of natural ventilation

The most common building for this system is a private house. Ventilation is carried out in it due to the passage of air flows through Construction Materials skipping them.

To understand the principle of operation of this system, it is necessary to delve into the school curriculum in physics. So, with a difference and temperature difference in the street and indoors, a working pressure is created. It is it that is the main driving force that pushes the air masses to move.

Work is carried out in two ways:

  • Natural method.
  • Forced.

The most common method is natural. Humanity has been using it for several centuries.

However, this method has a rather significant disadvantage - in winter, heat leaves the room along with air currents. Therefore, at low temperatures, it is recommended to use a forced ventilation system.

Features of the device of a natural system

Consider the main nuances of the complex. Natural exhaust ventilation in a private house is carried out as follows:

  • A specialized exhaust system is installed in the room. It consists of vertical cavities with a pipeline installed inside.
  • There is no need to install the complex in all areas of a private house. Usually a kitchen area, a sanitary unit and basements are enough.
  • For the correct operation of the system, you can install a special device - an exhaust hood. It will improve the efficiency of air ventilation.

Main advantages

  • Natural ventilation system does not need to be connected to electricity and heating system.
  • The flow of air masses is carried out naturally and does not need additional regulation.
  • The quality of work improves with low temperatures environment and increased wind gusts. Such weather distributed throughout almost all CIS countries.

Forced system

Let's consider how to make ventilation in a private house of forced type. Its work is carried out at the expense of specially installed equipment.

Before starting work on installing the system, you should study its basic principle of operation.

The principle of operation of a mechanical ventilation system

The main scheme of ventilation of a private house of forced type is as follows:

  1. An air duct system is installed inside the room. Through it, dust and pollution are removed from the room.
  2. Waste air flows, together with particles of dust and dirt, enter the roof into a specially installed device - a deflector. Through it they enter the atmosphere.
  3. Outside there is an external block of the ventilation system. It gets the main air currents. An air purification system is installed inside the unit. Its work is carried out through filters.
  4. Purified air enters the room through the air duct system.

Natural ventilation. We mount ourselves

So, how to make ventilation in a private house? The principle of operation of the natural ventilation system is based on the differences in operating pressure. To achieve this, installation of pipeline channels in the walls will be required. Their thickness should not exceed 4 cm. It is recommended to install the air intake hole at the maximum height. This will provide the most efficient operation.

In the laid channels it is necessary to mount plastic pipes. Their diameter is no more than 12 cm.

The laid channels should be connected into one pipeline and its exit to the street should be carried out.

The exhaust air pipe is usually installed on the roof. It is recommended to install a pipe with a wall thickness of at least 2 bricks. This will protect it from freezing in the cold season.

Installing a mechanical air circulation system

How to make ventilation in a private house of forced type? Installation of mechanical systems will require the purchase of special equipment. Usually it is supplied as a kit and includes several parts (fan, filter, cleaning unit, deflector, air pipes).

Installation of equipment is carried out on the roof. A central cleaning unit is mounted there. It is necessary for the intake of air from the environment. Inside the unit is a modern cleaning system. Purified air streams enter the room through the installed duct system.

Inside the building, fans are installed in different rooms with an air duct system connected to them. Through it, polluted streams enter the roof and are discharged into the atmosphere through a specially installed pipe.

Heating system ventilation

The main feature of any private house is the need to independently maintain the temperature in the room. For this, a heating system is used. Previously, the only source of heat was the stove. Today, water and gas heating systems are widely used.

The most economical heating method is a gas heating system. It provides a comfortable level of heat in the room for quite a long time. For the correct operation of the system, properly installed gas ventilation in a private house is necessary.

To operate the exhaust system, a fan is installed in the duct. It pumps air currents and promotes their circulation.

The mechanical ventilation method consists of two blocks:

  • Air intake systems.
  • Air mass injection systems.

The main unit is mounted on the roof of the house. A piping system is connected to it. It brings clean air into the room. Polluted streams through the pipes of the duct are brought out into the street.

Bathroom ventilation

For a comfortable stay, properly working ventilation in the toilet of a private house is necessary.

Usually it is a closed room with a high level of humidity. To achieve a high level of comfort in the toilet, it is necessary to install a forced ventilation system.

Air masses are forced into the pipeline through a fan mounted in the wall. It must be connected to the mains. So you can regulate the operation of the extraction system.

A properly installed ventilation system in a private house allows you to achieve the optimal microclimate and comfort in the room.

Good day!
I will describe my problem.

My mother-in-law has a new private house, 3 years in operation. There is a big problem - the ventilation works the other way around, it blows from the vents in the kitchen and in the toilet with a bath ... but it should draw.

The design of ventilation and the house is as follows:
1. Throughout the house, plastic windows and doors with rubber seals. It turns out that there are no gaps for air flow.
2. A gas boiler is installed in the house for heating and hot water. In the common space on the veranda, the rooms are not isolated from each other.

The worst thing I think
3. The unfortunate builders built a huge chimney with 7 shafts, 3 meters high ... one shaft is reserved for the boiler, one is ventilation to the basement, the rest are ventilation in the house (extracts from the kitchen, bathroom, verandas).
4. The worst brick pipe is made of facing brick and not insulated at all. a ceramic brick floor is obtained between the channel and the outside air. In winter, condensation simply flows from the ceiling where this pipe is, the colder it is outside, the stronger it is.

In the third year, the ceramic brick began to fall apart from moisture ... it is necessary to redo this pipe.

I already know that I can handle the condensate ... we will disassemble the pipe, install an asbestos pipe, insulate it well, and cover it with bricks. I think it should be ok.
But with ventilation, if this is also done (insulated), will it work normally, draw out?

Why is it now blowing into the house from the ventilation, I have the following guesses:
1. The boiler is working, air is needed, but there is no air flow, so it draws from the ventilation. but the problem is that it pulls from ventilation, and when the boiler is turned off.
2. The pipe is not insulated, the air cools down and is pulled down.

I think I’ll figure it out with the boiler, maybe I’ll fence it off and make inlets from the street.

I would like to ask experienced people before starting to remake this pipe ... if I make everything insulated, will everything work fine?

Good afternoon. I'm still at the project stage, but I heard about such a problem. I have been a bricklayer for over 10 years. and that "unfortunate builders built a huge pipe" is not bad. A friend who works together has the same problem. I don't think. what he was doing wrong to himself. Houses "suffocate" due to lack of supply. In production, this is solved as follows: in the kitchen we leave holes. 140/200mm in outer wall. I found some info on the net about intake valves. But do replies. in the wall is not very desirable. The fact that the pipe is made of lining is a "jamb". To avoid condensation - it is necessary to insulate, definitely. At work, we insulate with "Ursa" - 5 cm, then wrap it with fiberglass, and wrap it around (wall thickness 20 - 25 cm). I plan to do this: the boiler will be in the kitchen. 4 channels will go from the kitchen. "Hot", extract from the stove (grease trap), extract from the kitchen itself, and supply air. I think to open the supply 40-50cm from the floor and bring it to the attic (the same 50cm from the floor). The attic is ventilated and cold. Question to the specialists: will my air supply system work?

The freshness of clean air in all areas depends on properly thought-out ventilation in the house. indoor areas. Today, few people can boast of excellent ventilation in living rooms, except in the kitchen and bathroom.

Natural ventilation for a private house

What, as a rule, is necessary for a comfortable stay of a person in a house is warm in winter, cool in summer. And most importantly, at any time of the year you need fresh air, without drafts. Therefore, its movement should be natural and not stagnate, and unpleasant odors should disappear from the room without lingering. It would seem that all issues will be solved by artificial ventilation. But it also has disadvantages, one of which is intensive air exchange. It can result in heat loss. Replacement of indoor air with forced ventilation is more than 3 times higher than the value of natural air exchange. Therefore, it is advisable to equip housing with natural air exhaust systems.


As always, every rule has its exceptions. A small movement of air flow in the ventilation duct implies a significant size of the duct. If we are talking about a natural exhaust system, then the passage of 300 cubic meters of air in one hour will require an air duct section of 25 × 40 cm (Ø35 cm), with forced exhaust, a section of 16 × 20 cm (Ø2o cm) is enough. Due to the fact that the construction of a ventilation duct inside a load-bearing wall is sometimes difficult, and the arrangement of a structure under the ceiling or along the wall of the room looks ugly and does not fit into the concept of the room, a forced ventilation system becomes the way out.

Criteria for choosing a ventilation system in private housing construction.

To determine which ventilation system is best suited for a particular building, the following factors are guided by:

  • cleanliness of the surrounding air space;
  • building materials used in the construction of the walls of the cottage.

Another not unimportant point is the financial side of the issue. But in order to ensure long-term comfortable living, they try not to pay attention to this factor.

In this case, the requirements for the installation of natural ventilation are truly clean air around the housing and the walls of the cottage are made of breathable materials: ceramics, wood, adobe, foam and aerated concrete.

The conditions for the installation of forced ventilation systems are the need to filter the ambient air in order to remove unpleasant odors and harmful impurities and ensure air exchange in buildings with walls made of sealed panels and expanded polystyrene concrete.

Natural air exchange: infiltration and ventilation

The entry of air into the room, as well as its removal, can be natural and artificial. In the first case, air enters as a result of infiltration and ventilation of the room. Infiltration is understood as the minimum penetration of air through the loose abutment of the window sashes, the gap between the window block and the opening, the leakage of the door leaf, through the walls. Wooden windows of standard design have high air permeability of 15 kg/h*m 3 . This is quite enough to ensure the flow of air into a small house (120m 2). Plus, air is added to it through the leak entrance doors and through the walls.


The installation of plastic windows is airtight, it does not provide for any leaks. The air permeability of window blocks of their plastic is virtually zero. As they say, their owners, the window does not breathe. Therefore, when choosing a block, it is necessary to purchase a window where an inlet window valve is already provided.


If time is lost and the window unit is already installed, it is recommended to install a wall valve for air intake. Usually this is a pipe built into the wall and closed on both sides with ventilation grilles. The grill placed in the inner part of the house is adjustable. It can open and close entirely. It is advisable to install a supply wall valve in the area of ​​​​the window opening closer to the radiator, so that the penetrating air masses fall into its zone of action.


You can also get a natural flow of air by ventilation. It is performed by slightly opening the window or opening the frame plastic window. But this method of ventilation is ineffective. It is associated with a large loss of heat, promotes the formation of condensate and complete replacement volume of air in the room takes a long time. About an hour.

Another method is short-term ventilation with fully open windows. This is the more common way. With such ventilation, air renewal occurs in 7-8 minutes, while the window structures do not have time to cool and condensate does not form.


However, the most effective ventilation is a draft. Windows and doors are opened wide, and due to the formation of traction, the replacement of air masses in the room is carried out almost instantly, after 3 minutes. This type of ventilation is not desirable while people are in the room, it can contribute to the appearance of a cold.

Rooms in the house that need ventilation ducts

Let us consider in detail the issue of arranging natural ventilation in a private household. First, we determine where it is necessary to install ventilation ducts.


These are sanitary and hygienic premises: a bathroom, a bathroom, a shower room, a household room with washing equipment.



In wardrobes, utility rooms and pantries, if they are associated with residential apartments.


If the exit is organized in non-residential premises, then the issue of air ventilation is solved by installing supply valve in wall or window construction.

The room where the heating boiler is installed, etc. heating equipment, according to the regulations, must be equipped with both a ventilation duct and a wall check valve. And also, at the request of sanitary rules and regulations, it is necessary to complete the room with a ventilation duct, if more than two doors separate it from the ventilated room.

In the remaining apartments of a private household, where there are no ventilation ducts, an inlet window or wall valve is installed, and an overflow hole is made mainly on the door leaf to the adjacent room.

In addition, it is important to make natural ventilation of the underground on the ground floor and the basement space, for which ventilation ducts are also arranged.

The performance of a standard ventilation duct

The performance of the ventilation duct is affected by the following factors: the material of manufacture, the height of the duct and the temperature conditions at the installation site.


Table 1.

We give a table for a standard ventilation duct made of concrete blocks, with a section of 12 × 17 cm or 204 cm 2.

How to properly arrange natural ventilation ducts in private housing construction


If we take as a basis the minimum cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ventilation duct, equal to 0.016 m 2, then its side will correspond to 12.5 cm, and Ø 150 mm. With the help of such a channel, it is possible to ensure the replacement of air in the room up to 30 m 3 per hour. To increase the intensity of air removal, it is necessary to use a ventilation duct of large dimensions and length. Air ducts with a length of less than 2 m do not meet the requirements for ventilation of premises, as they do not provide proper air exchange.

In practice, the length of the ventilation duct per floor depends on the number and height of the upper floors, the attic and the chimney on the roof. To ensure uniform draft in all air ducts on the floor, they are made approximately the same length. The cross section of the ventilation ducts is also left the same, not for their reasons of ease of installation. The ventilation performance in the rooms is regulated by the selection of the dimensions of the ventilation grille.

In private buildings, the number of air ducts is small, so they are not combined into a common channel, but taken out of the room through the attic to the roof and equipped with a cap. The combination of ventilation ducts leads to a deterioration in ventilation in general.

The ventilation units are placed inside the load-bearing walls or by attaching air ducts to them. It is advisable to build a block of bricks, then the size of the ventilation duct is chosen as a multiple of its dimensions. For example, 140 × 140 mm (half a brick per half brick) or 140x270 mm (half a brick per brick). Perhaps the installation of a ventilation duct with special blocks of concrete. For the arrangement of ventilation ducts made of bricks or blocks, it should be possible to support them on a foundation base or reinforced concrete floor.

Air ducts are made of polymers or metal. In this case, they are closed with a special box. Such ventilation ducts have found application in wooden structures and frame houses.

How to calculate the natural ventilation of private housing construction


To determine the dimensions of the ventilation ducts, it is advisable to calculate the lowest capacity of the ventilation system, taking as a basis the amount of outgoing air.

When finding the amount of air leaving through the natural exhaust air ducts, it is based on the fact that the air enters the building through the check valves from the outside, reaches the rooms equipped with ventilation ducts, and through them returns again to the street.

We present an algorithm for calculating the required number of ventilation ducts for each floor of a building:

  1. Based on the norms, we find the total smallest amount of air entering from the outside through the check valves - Q P, m 3 / hour.
  2. According to the norms, we set the total amount of air emanating from rooms with ventilation ducts - Q in, m 3 / hour.
  3. After comparing the indicators of the smallest intake Q P, m 3 / h and outflow Q in, m 3 / h of air flows, we select the largest one and take it as the lowest productivity of all ventilation ducts on the floor, obtained as a result of the calculation - Q p, m 3 / h.
  4. Based on the height of the house, we determine the size of the vertical ventilation duct on the floor. Since the height of the attic, according to SN and P, is equal to the height of the dwelling, and the minimum size of the ventilation duct above the ridge of the roof of the house is 0.5 meters, then the height of the ventilation duct is equal to the sum of these indicators. An example of such a calculation is shown below.
  5. Considering the level of the ventilation duct and the total estimated productivity of all channels on the floor, according to the calculation, see below, we determine the number of required air ducts from the selected material.
  6. Guided by the selected number of standard air ducts, we divide them between rooms, taking into account the need to ensure air exchange rates in all rooms with ventilation ducts.

Sample calculation of natural ventilation of private housing construction


As an example, we take a one-story building with a total area of ​​​​130m 2 and a wall height of 2.8 meters. The cottage has six living quarters -100m 2 , kitchen, bathroom and toilet, pantry - 4.5 m 2 . The floors in the house are made of grooved boards on logs on the ground. Underground space 300 mm high is ventilated through the ventilation duct. We build air ducts from concrete blocks.

  1. For a private building, according to building codes and regulations, air aeration in living rooms is taken once.

From this it follows that the intake of air from outside for living quarters:

  • Q p \u003d 100 x 2.8 x 1 \u003d 280 m3 / hour;
  • 100 - total living area;
  • 2.8 - the height of the premises;
  • 1 - the frequency of air exchange in a private house.
  1. Regulatory documents define: aeration in the kitchen, as 60 m 3 / hour, in places of high humidity, 25 m 3 / hour; intensity of air exchange in the pantry and underground 0.2 1/hour.
  • Q in 1 \u003d 60 + 25 + 25 \u003d 110 m 3 / hour - the amount of outgoing air from the kitchen, bathroom, bathroom;
  • Q in 2 \u003d 4.5 * 2.8 * 0.2 \u003d 2.52 m 3 / hour - the amount of outgoing air from the pantry;
  • Q in 3 \u003d 130 * 0.3 * / 0.2 \u003d 7.8 m 3 / hour - the amount of outgoing air from the underground.
  • Total: Q in total \u003d Q in 1 + Q in 2 + Q in 3 \u003d 110 + 2.52 + 7.8 \u003d 120.32 m 3 / hour. - the total amount of outgoing air from the house. Comparative analysis shows that Q p > Q in general, from which it follows that the total calculated lowest productivity of all ventilation ducts on the floor:

Q p \u003d Q p \u003d 280 m 3 / hour.

  1. For a one-story building, given the level of the attic, which, according to building codes and regulations, is equal to the height of the living space, and the minimum height of the ventilation channel above the roof ridge is 0.5 meters, we take the length of the ventilation channel to be 4 meters;
  2. According to the table 1, at a temperature equal to 20 ° C and a ventilation duct height of 4 meters, we select the productivity of one typical ventilation duct with an area of ​​​​204 cm 2 - 45.96 m 3 / hour.

We calculate the number of typical ventilation ducts from concrete blocks: 280m 3 / hour / 45.96 m 3 / hour = 6.09. For a given one-story building, 6 exhaust air ducts are required.

  1. The housing construction provides for mandatory ventilation ducts in the kitchen, bathroom, toilet and pantry, as well as in the underground. Based on the constructive need, we equip the underground with two ventilation ducts. In total, we get 6 natural exhaust air ducts.
  2. Now we calculate the provision of standard indicators for the premises. Kitchen. For the kitchen, it is necessary to provide air exchange of 60 m 3 / hour, however, it turns out that one ventilation duct is not enough, so we decide to use a unit with two ventilation ducts.

The rest of the premises meet the standards. Therefore, we finally accept 7 ventilation ducts for our one-story house

We carry out a comparative analysis:

  • kitchen 45.96 * 2 \u003d 92m 3 / hour> 60m 3 / hour.
  • bathroom 45.96m 3 /hour > 25m 3 /hour.
  • bathroom 45.96m 3 / hour > 25m 3 / hour.
  • pantry 45.96m 3 /hour > 2.52m 3 /hour.
  • underground 45.96 * 2 \u003d 92m 3 / hour> 7.8m 3 / hour.

Overall performance of all channels

  • 92 + 45.96 + 45.96 + 45.96 + 92 \u003d 321.8 m 3 / hour
  • 321.8 m 3 / hour > 280 321.8 m 3 / hour.

It should be noted that this calculation method is simplified, but has the right to life.

Placement of the ventilation duct above the roof


In windy conditions, a vacuum zone is created around any obstacle or high blood pressure depending on the course and strength of the air currents. No exception, and ventkanal. When the head of the ventilation duct enters the discharge zone, the thrust increases, and when an area of ​​\u200b\u200bhigh pressure forms around it, it usually decreases and tends to zero. In this case, it is possible that the draft is overturned, as a result of which the air begins to move from the outside to the inside of the house. To minimize the impact of air mass flows on operation ventilation system you need to install the head of the ventilation duct according to certain dimensions.

Warming of ventilation ducts


When the ambient temperature drops in the ventilation duct, condensation begins to form and the draft decreases. To avoid this problem, air ducts are placed inside load-bearing external walls or insulated with heat-insulating materials.

How to resist the aerodynamic resistance of ventilation ducts

In order to minimize the amount of aerodynamic resistance, which prevents the draft force in the duct, it is necessary:

  • increase the cross-sectional area of ​​​​the ventilation duct;
  • the section of ventilation ducts should not change along the entire length;
  • The ventilation duct must be installed in a strictly vertical position. It is possible that the deviation of the air duct to the side is up to 1 m, but not exceeding 30 ° from the vertical plane. Horizontal sections in natural ventilation systems are not allowed;
  • The walls of the ventilation duct must be completely smooth.

How to make a hood in a private house with your own hands, installing a hood and other useful aspects

Replacement wooden windows on plastic, and doors on metal prevents the circulation of fresh supply air. In a private house, the ventilation system must necessarily consist of supply ducts and exhaust ducts (for example), located in all rooms. It will not be difficult to make it yourself, and the benefits from it will be invaluable, fresh and clean air is the key to the health of your family.

Forced ventilation of a private house

Nowadays, not a single private house can do without an effective ventilation system that would not only fill the home atmosphere with fresh air, but also remove all unpleasant odors.

The coercive system is the most effective today. supply and exhaust ventilation which is equipped with heat recovery technology.

Usually it is used in a place where there is not enough natural ventilation - in bathrooms and in the kitchen. Forced ventilation will help remove air with the help of special equipment - a fan or hood.

Let us consider in more detail the device of the forced ventilation system:


  1. The main element is the ventilation unit, which consists of:

a) control unit;

b) fans;

c) filters;

d) heat exchanger-recuperator.

2. exhaust duct;

3. exhaust anemostat;

4. deflector;

5. air intake;

6. supply anemostat.

The principle of operation of forced supply and exhaust ventilation.

Through the exhaust air intake, air is removed from the premises into the deflector, which is located on the roof of the house. Fresh air enters through the supply air intake, which is then distributed using the supply and exhaust ventilation unit to all rooms.

The recovery system works according to the following principle.

AT winter time Outgoing warm air and incoming cold air meet in the heat exchanger. It should be noted that in this case the mixing of the two air streams does not occur. The outgoing warm air gives up its heat to the incoming air. Thanks to this, already fresh heated air is distributed throughout the home. This solution saves up to 25% of the energy consumed by the heating system.

Modern technologies allow equipping the ventilation unit with auxiliary systems for filtering and humidifying the supplied air.

Advantages

  1. Significant savings in thermal energy due to the use of an efficient heat exchanger;
  2. Provides all rooms in the house with fresh supply air, despite the weather conditions;
  3. Effectively removes even the smallest dust particles with a filtration system;
  4. Performs cooling, heating, dehumidification or humidification of fresh air supply;
  5. Provides the ability to quickly and easily adjust the air exchange in the house, depending on your preferences and the parameters of the microclimate in the rooms;
  6. A reliable system for diagnosing and operating efficiency (microclimate, air humidity, air exchange), as well as inform you when it is necessary to replace filters or identify malfunctions.

Flaws modern forced supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery:

  1. Power consumption by the control unit and fans;
  2. The automatic protection system turns off the ventilation system in the absence of electricity;
  3. A technically complex device with an expensive electronic control unit;
  4. The need for periodic maintenance;
  5. Creates noise during operation;
  6. Requires installation by qualified personnel.

Supply and exhaust ventilation system with ground heat exchanger.

Such a system is widely used today.

Device:

The pipe lays at a depth of 1.5-2 meters in the ground. One end of the pipe is brought out above the ground at a distance of 0.5-1 m. The second end is connected directly to the air intake. Supply air is supplied to the ventilation unit through a ground heat exchanger, where it is heated in winter and cooled in summer. The pipe diameter must be at least 110 mm for greater efficiency. The recommended pipe length is 15 meters or more.

Advantages of this system - savings of the air conditioning and heating system up to 25%.

Give your home and family complete comfort and coziness in every room.

How to install a hood (ventilation) in a private house video:

How to make a gas hood for a gas column

Ventilation ducts for a heating boiler or column must have dimensions of 130x260 mm. During its construction, it is necessary to very carefully seal all existing cracks with masonry mortar. And the ventilation channel itself is best connected to the outlet of the boiler or column using a galvanized pipe, which is not afraid of corrosion and temperature changes. The height of the hood above the gas stove should be about 50 - 80 cm. So that the fumes do not go into your room.

How to make a hood in the toilet and in the bathroom of a private house

If your bathroom in a private house is not equipped with forced ventilation, then moisture will begin to accumulate in it, which will subsequently lead to fungi and mold. Such ventilation due to the rapid air circulation will remove all unpleasant odors in the bathroom or toilet. Best for this wall fan on bushings (without bearings). With bearings, fans, although more reliable and expensive, are very noisy. In turn, fans on bushings have a low price and are almost silent.

An extractor hood is a mandatory attribute of every bathroom, kitchen or toilet. It is thanks to this device that fresh air circulates, which allows maintaining optimal humidity and microclimate in the room. Modern technologies provide an opportunity to use exhaust systems more efficiently. For example, by installing an additional motion sensor in the bathroom, which will turn the ventilation system on and off. Also in practice, turning on the hood at the same time as turning on the light remains especially popular. You can install a humidity sensor that will be connected to the system forced ventilation and when changing its parameters in automatic mode extraction operation is controlled.

In this article, we will consider the most optimal and correct ways to connect a forced ventilation system using the example of a bathroom.

Recommendation! It is best to place the hood switch indoors, for example, in a bathroom or toilet. Since not every time you enter the restroom, you need the ventilation system to work, because it can be a simple visit to do the cleaning or wash and brush your teeth.

The above recommendation should also be taken into account if you plan to turn on the hood when the light is turned on. In this case, it is necessary to provide an additional switch for the ventilation system, since not every time you turn on the light in the restroom, you need the hood to work. For example, in winter it is cool in the bathroom and additionally cold air from the ventilation system will not add to your comfort. Or to take another example, you've prepared a bubble bath for yourself and decided to relax while watching your favorite movie on your iPad, in which case the constant whirring of the fan will only annoy you.

Humidity sensor

Modern experts suggest installing humidity sensors in latrines, which will signal the ventilation system to turn it on or off. However, this should not be done, and here's why. For example, your child is slightly ill and you need to bathe him, in which case you need to avoid the slightest draft, and here the whole ventilation system will work on a signal from a humidity sensor, which you cannot turn off. As a rule, the bathroom should be warm enough so that your child does not get completely sick, for this we first turn on hot water, which will warm the entire room like in a bath.

Recommendation! We strongly do not recommend installing any automation to operate the exhaust system in apartments and houses where there are elderly people. If your grandparents, mom or dad decide to take a bath and relax, and at this time the hood suddenly turns on at full power according to the humidity or motion sensor, then this is fraught with a nervous shock for such people.

Another simple example, you decide to go to the bathroom or toilet, to the kitchen late at night, when everyone is already asleep and with the inclusion of a light or a motion sensor, the forced ventilation system will not only wake everyone in the apartment, house, but can also scare you a lot when you wake up.

The best methods for connecting the hood in the restroom or bathroom

Method 1 - Indoor Switch

In this case, you will be able to independently control the process of switching on and off the ventilation system.

Method 2 - Turning on the hood with lighting and an additional switch

This is the most optimal method for each apartment or house, when when you turn on the light in the restroom, the ventilation system will automatically turn on, which you can also turn off yourself with a switch. For example, you came in to wash or do some cleaning, and in this case you do not need the extractor fan to work. Then you can just turn it off and turn it on when you need it.

Method 3 - Power button and 60 minute timer

In this case, the ventilation system will be turned on exclusively by you, and it will turn off after a certain time interval. For example, after 60 minutes, as a rule, this time can be adjusted on the timer in increments of 5 minutes.

Use any of the above methods and you will be able to create complete comfort in your bathroom, toilet or kitchen without unpleasant excesses and other surprises.

How to make a kitchen hood in the kitchen (above the stove) in a private house

In the kitchen, the best option would be two ventilation channels:

- the first natural

- the second forced.

As a rule, the forced ventilation channel - the hood - is placed directly above the stove, and the natural ventilation channel - under the ceiling already from the side of the stove. Thanks to this solution, you will achieve effective ventilation: an exhaust hood that is slightly away from the stove will not be able to completely remove all foreign odors and combustion products, and unpleasant odors that enter the air will be removed directly through the ventilation duct in the wall. Do not lower the hood very low to the stove, it will get very hot and, as a result, will fail faster. It is best to observe the distance to the stove: 0.65 mm for electric and 0.75 for gas. The dimensions of the hood must match the dimensions of your stove.

It is also possible to mount the hood without connecting it to ventilation, more on this.

We conclude that the best option for sufficient ventilation in the kitchen is a high-quality combined system, which consists of a forced exhaust and a natural ventilation channel.

Clean air in your private home is a guarantee of health for your entire family.